Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'balboa'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Hot Tubs & Spas
    • Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
    • Inflatable Hot Tubs
  • Inground, Fiberglass and Aboveground Swimming Pools
    • All Swimming Pools Types
  • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
    • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
  • Pool/Spa Water Care
  • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
  • Pool/Spa Water Care
    • Hot Tub Water Chemistry
    • Swimming Pool Water Chemistry

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Interests

  1. My Coast Spa is nothing but trouble. Today's issue is that the system is reporting that the Heater is Too Hot. But the system has been in rest mode and low temperature and the water is cold. The B sensor was reporting hot so I replaced that sensor. After which both sensors seem nominal and in sync. Shortly thereafter the A sensor reports hot. Then the B sensor reports hot. So neither stable nor in sync. I have unplugged the sensors and rebooted. But the system is rebooting to a Heater Too Hot status. I suspect now a logic board issue (which would be my 4th board in 6 years). Thoughts or suggestions? And now it will not poser up even to the Heater Too Hot status. Instead, all LEDs blink.
  2. I have read through everything online, and done every step possible to try and figure out the problem maybe you guys can help me, my spa stopped heating recently and I cleaned the filters and checked the heating element. it was covered in scale build up and had rust on it, also the breaker was tripping from time to time and in my experience that usually means it needs a new heater element. I noticed before replacing the heater element that there was no power going to the heating element. I thought it was safe guarding the spa till it got a heating element that could hold the power and not pop the breaker. replaced the element and there is still no power to the heating element and the tub will not heat up. it's not popping the breaker anymore. but there is no power going to the heating element. as far as i can tell all the fuses are fine. I can hear the relay working but no power to the element. there are no codes popping up. thanks
  3. I am a new owner of an Aquarest Premium 600, powered by a Balboa RS101 System Pack with a 2 HPR 2-speed pump. This is a plug-n-play tub which I converted over to 240V option. This is my first hot tub, so I apologize if I get any terminolgy wrong, but I'm learning. I am getting an SN error that I cannot get rid of. I'm reset it multiple times, checked my connections, cleaned my filter, checked my jets and purged any possible air locks. It's winter where I live and the temps have dropped recently. Not sure if that is a factor. Also, my tub is on a gravel base, and it has sunk slightly, causing the heater to not be perfectly level. Also, not sure if that matters. I've contacted the distributor and the manufacturer, and some local repair people, but no one has reached back out yet. I'm hoping there is something I missing. The only consisent thing I have noticed is a persistent clicking coming from a relay labeled K2. Based on what I've seen on this forum, that's not uncommon. Thanks for any advice! Photos-001.zip
  4. Hi all, A couple of days ago both the pumps on my tub stopped working and there's a tick tock sound coming from the control system that sounds like a car blinker. I've disconnected, reconnected all the electric going in and out as well as checked and replaced one fuse. Panel works, has PR on it indicating it's priming but nothing's happening. The PR stays. Not sure what to do next. Any suggestions? Specs/pics/vid below. Balboa VS spa control system VS510SZ. https://youtu.be/SuIZdGjeo4Q
  5. Hey there folks. I'm quite perplex with this issue and hope someone else can make sense of it. Board installed is a Balboa VS500z Running out of a 2007 Hydrospa, without issue to this point, the heater went a few weeks ago causing the GFCI to trip. I verified this with no resistance through the heating element (opposed to the normal 13-14ohm) I didn't have parts on hand and it was relatively inexpensive for a technician to come over and replaced the element. He did so without issue and everything seemed fine. Last week the GFCI randomly tripped again. Tried troubleshooting the issue now that I had some spare time and it seemed to point back to the new heater but with a twist. The heater was showing continuinity and the proper resistance, it would trip when connected. With the heater disconnected for troubleshooting, the lower tandem relay wasn't passing voltage through it when the heater light was on, so I assumed it was toasted. Pulled the board, replaced the relay and the one above it for good measure and reinstalled everything. The new heating element still showed solid resistance and it wasn't in contact with the heater tube. GFCI tripped again. I replaced the heater assembly (sensors and element as well) with a spare unit that I picked up for a good price, just for trouble shooting, and the tub fired back up. Went through its internal tests successfully and then resumed normal operation for about 2 minutes and then tripped again. Everything else seems to run normally (circ pump, ozone, jet pump, light, and blower), GFCI stays powered with everything but the heater hooked up. Even the heater terminals are showing 240-250v when powered. In both cases the heater still showed good continuity and resistance. Is it possible I've tested 2 bogus heaters or is something else at play here? None of the solder joints on the board looked burnt or "cold soldered". Any information would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  6. Hi team! I have a balboa hot tub. I have had to replace the heater twice in the last 8 months. I know that this shouldn’t be the case. They seem to last 4-6 months before blowing (trip the board and ohm tests show no current running through element). They don’t seem to show any obvious sign of damage, maybe just a bit of white and green around the connections. Does anyone know why the heaters don’t seem to be lasting too long? I am about to order another heater but wondering if I need to check or replace any other parts? could poor water health cause this? Your help would be greatly appreciated! Many Thanks
  7. So we are trying to start our hot tub after a couple of years of it being off. We filled it with water to prime it, we tried turning it on on the fuse panel. We get a code of the top screen panel saying “Pr” and the heater is making a clicking sound like a turn signal in a car. VS501 Balboa IMG_3394.MP4
  8. Hi All, Question on running multiple pumps from a single board connection. As background, the Thermospa spa I inherited has 5 jet pumps, a circ pump, a blower, a light and a diverter valve for a wave lounge. I had no idea how 'over-featured' this tub was, but it's all mine now and I'm working through a series of issues slowly (with much help from the guys on here). On my existing board (Balboa EL8000 Mach 3), pumps 2 & 4, and pumps 3 & 5 connect to the same connector on the board with a 'Y' or splitter connector. Then the 'hot' pin on one of the split connections is jumpered straight to one of the 240V spade connections near the incoming electric hookup. Is this a common and acceptable way to run 2 pumps from a single board connection? Where the hot connection on one is coming from a different 240v connection I’m guessing that it only shares the ground with the board connector. Is there any downside to this arrangement? Does this change any of the power requirements on the board, or as long as the incoming power is 240v does it not matter? The GFCI would remain rated the same at 60W. As a follow up question, even if this is an acceptable/common practice, these pumps would need to be controlled topside separately. In addition to my main control panel (heat, pump 1, 2, blower and light), I have a single button panel for pump 4, a single button panel for pump 5, and a wave lounge panel that controls pump 3 and the associated diverter valve. My board has control connections that allow me to hook these all up and control the corresponding pumps/diverter as required. The ultimate reason for my question is how I would shop for a new PAC/board if I ever need to. When I read the specs for spa PACs or individual boards, they mention the number of jet pumps supported (never 5), but how would I know if there are enough 240v spade connections to reproduce the scenario I currently have? Then, assuming I have available 240v spade connectors for all of my pumps, how can I tell if there are sufficient topside control connections to be able to control them as needed? As of now it appears that the EL8000 is still available, but the price varies up to $450. This is more an exploratory exercise to see where the breakpoint is between replacing a board and replacing the entire PAC. This is a Thermospa and I’m continually running into challenges finding replacement parts as in some cases the part was specifically manufactured for Thermospa and has a different part number, although in most cases it just a rebranded standard part which I find out after some research. Thermospa is now defunct and this spa is coming up on 12 years old. Sorry for the long post. I’m trying to learn as much as possible to prepare for future repairs and bring my stress level over this spa down. Who said hot tubs were relaxing? Thanks, Rob
  9. Hello- I am looking for a RS81 Pack for our new AquaRest/Balboa 2 person spa. Everything is out of stock- Any ideas? Used OK if not shot- Thank you very much!
  10. We are having trouble with our spa it is signature spa - balboa GS501 when we turn it on from the isolator the 188 comes on the control panel/topside, no pumps running. Nothing at all happening. sny suggestions on what to do or what the fault could be ?
  11. Hey when powering up my spa after being shut off for refilling. A message comes up on the top screen “J29” then says priming. once the normal spa screen comes up the message of “possible freezing conditions” appears. And pumps cycle on and off. the j29 is a jumper message and in the manual it says shortened durning power up and heater will not run until J29 is no longer shortened anyone have any suggestions Thanks
  12. I am writing to ask for help. We own an Aspen Hot Tub with Balboa parts. (M7 2000 parts) Our nightmare started about 6 weeks ago when we noticed our tub was not running right. It started to continuously cycle through the start-up mode like it was possessed. It could never move beyond 3 minutes post-prime. We were told that the Balboa M7 board was malfunctioning. We had 2 options . . . replace it or have it repaired. We opted to have it repaired. We sent it to a guy in Arizona who reported back to us that a 5v regulator was bad. He said he replaced it AND tested the rest of the board, which was fine. After getting the board back, we installed it into our tub. It certainly did not do what it did before sending it out for the board repair, but now it started blinking OHH approx. 30 seconds after PR. Folks, the tub was 70 degrees!! We emptied the tub, cleaned it, re-filled it, burped it, removed all airlocks, and the same thing! We replaced both heat sensors AND the heating element. It worked yesterday all day and heated totally normal and then this morning, it is back to flashing OHH immediately after the start-up codes with no PR mode. For a while, it would run when I would disconnect the heater from the circuit board, but that trick doesn’t work anymore. Now it just blinks OHH and the water is 75 degrees. Does anyone know what we can do? I have attached the work form from the guy in Arizona that says he fixed our circuit board so that people can see what he did.
  13. I just picked up a 1998 Dakota Skyler with a 4kW heater controlled by a Balboa LiteLD CCAJ board. The heater wasnt working, was corroded... I replaced it with a new 4W coil. Still no heat. Temp probe is good, pressure sensor is good. I'm wired on 240V. Pump works on both speeds. Supply AC is correct. Heater measures 120VAC above ground on BOTH sides when call for heat is on (heat light on panel on). Both sides of heating coil are 120 V above ground, 240 V above black, and 0V above red. Thus 0V across the heater coil and no heat. So both sides of the coil are electrically connected to red and no voltage difference across them. I pulled the board out. It has 5 relays. The coils on 4 of them measure about 260 Ohms each, and one shows no continuity. Thus I presume a bad relay (th ed relay that connects to one side of the heater coil). The contactors on the relays work fine, as each tested well with a meter. I reinstalled the board and manually tripped the relay that I suspect is dead. However that did not change the voltage readings across the heater as I hoped it would. I've ordered a couple new relays. But I could use some advice!! What can anyone recommend? It would be much better with heat!! Thanks much!! Eric
  14. I have a Catalina Ventura with a Balboa EL8000 pack and an ML900 topside panel. The jets 2 button has become more and more intermittent on the topside panel to the point that it no longer works. The spa has a 2 speed pump for jets 1, a single speed for jets 2, an no third pump. I can see by the lights on the panel that the jets 3 button works. What are the ramifications (if any) to plugging the second pump into the jets 3 connector on the EL8000 board thereby using the jets3 switch for the second pump?
  15. Hi team. Anyone able explain the filter time option too me. Goes F1 to f8 , does F8 mean filter once every 8hrs or for 8hrs at a time ? Picture of controller attached
  16. I have a CAT200 Catalina Spas Hot Tub. Just replaced the large pump, small pump, circuit board and heater as well as the flow sensor. Now I turn on and get a FLO error. I have bleed all pipes I can. Primed the jets. Removed and replaced the filters. I even tried adjusting the pressure sensor. The hot tub will just not circulate. I may have mis-wired somewhere, I guess. The tub will heat and work when jets are on too. I am about to break down and pay for service but want to see if anyone has fixed this or has a CAT200 to compare wiring. Thanks!
  17. Hi I just replaced my brainbox and heater in my 30 year old spa with a Balboa VS500 unit. I am regularly getting a "DY" low flow code and have had no luck troubleshooting. The small 3/4 circ pump is installed after the filter, is it possible that there isnt enough flow through the filter to keep the heater supplied?? Any other ideas anyone has? thanks Dan
  18. I have a hot tub with a balboa system. I have had it and used it for years, I recently cleaned the tub and refilled, it was working fine until I accidentally overflowed the tub topping it off ( not the first time) ever since its been in EC mode, I know how to change it and I keep setting it to St mode but the system will not stay in ST mode. no matter how many times I flip thru the systems. I am at a loss.
  19. I've got this problem with my Balboa spa. Here's the problem. They heating element will not turn off when the pumps turn off so the hot tub reads as overheat. You can actually hear the water boiling inside of the heating chamber. I have replaced the board, water flow pressure switch and temp sensor. Still having the same problem. Does anybody have any ideas?
  20. Hi All I'm hoping someone out there will be able to help me with an issue I have with my Balboa GL8000 control pack. I have recently replaced the PCB and am trying to get changes to the dip switches to be recognised, I have followed the Balboa Tech Sheet to reset the persistent memory (several times) but the changes are not being picked up e.g. its in Fahrenheit rather than Centigrade, Pump 3 is disabled, blower is off etc despite the dip switches being in the correct positions. Does anyone have any experience of successfully resetting the persistent memory? Many thanks Martin
  21. Hi, I have a 2002 Clearwater Spas St Andrew, it has 2x 3HP Waterway pumps (2-speed, 3721221-1D) and a Balboa SUV M7 control board. Pump 1 acts as circulation pump on low speed. Pump 1 recently failed, which also popped one of the two 25A TD Fuses on the board. I replaced Pump 1 and the fuse with new units, but the pump will not come on in low-speed mode, which is what circulates the water through the heater, so the spa is still unusable. You hear the board relay click when the low-speed should come on, but nothing happens. It works fine in high speed mode. If I swap Red and Black, it will run in Low-speed (only). I tried swapping the new pump with pump 2, and the symptoms stay with the pump 1 position, not the physical pump. All other controls and display work correctly. I have verified the wiring from control board to Pump 1 is good. I suspect something on control board, like maybe a faulty relay, but I don't know how to test that so I'm at a bit of a loss at this point. I'm hesitant to drop another $300 on a new board without know for sure that's going to fix the issue, as I assume they are not returnable once installed. One other thing I noticed is my 50A GFCI 'Test' button is not tripping the breaker, but I did validate the input voltage at the control board is correct (Wh<>Bk 119V, Wh<>Rd 119V, Bk<>Rd 238V) Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.
  22. I have a Balboa EL2001 Mach 2 circuit board and ML700 topside panel with aux top panel. I am trying to pinpoint if I have an issue with the topside panel or the circuit board. The board was replaces under 2 years ago. The top panel acts like everything works, icons change like it is working, but nothing actually turns on. None of the 3 motors and not even the spa water light. All the fuses are good and I don't see any visible damage on the board. I would love to be able to unplug both top panels and test if I can get the circuit board to turn anything on. Is that possible?
  23. So last night I cleaned up my hot tub to be filled and started back up for the winter. I willed it back up with fresh water, turned the breaker on and noticed there was an ozone circuit board smell coming from the main pack. I didn't get any error messages on the Balboa ML700 control display. It went to "pr" for priming and then after 10 minutes it turned the pumps on and started to circulate the water. I set the clock, and the timers on when I wanted to the cleaning cycles to start (1 is 2:30 am to 3 am - 2 is 3:30 am to 4 am) I set the temp to 85 degrees, noticed that the thermometer icon was present and the swirling fan was on (indicating that the heater was on and pump 1 was circulating the water) OK so everything spears to be working just fine right? well I this morning it was still running, it got to temp and didn't turn off. I then tried to put the unit into "sleep" mode to get it to turn off. After 10 minutes it was still running and will not go to sleep. This is my concern, is the board bad? What happened? How can I test this? Standard mode works, Econ mode works, Blower comes on, both pumps run in low and high speeds, lights work. Where can I start testing? I'd rather not have to buy a new spa pack right before the holidays :( Thanks in advance !
  24. Background: I have a freeflow tlx with Balboa 54115 Board set to run on 110v. I got it used and not working. I think the guy i got it from got it broken from someone else and couldn't fix it. This is my first experience with a spa. After consulting the wiring diagram, correcting some reversed wires and calibrating the pressure switch, all seems normal. The real problem was poor job of replacing the onboard fuse leading to intermittent board function which i repaired. Question: In a state were its below temperature set point: when I switch the pump to high speed, it stops calling for heat. Returning to low speed, it calls for heats again. Is this normal? Theories: 1. The higher flow rate may be faulting the pressure sensor. 2. Something else is wired wrong. (I found several incorrectly wired connectons to the control board. Its almost like this guy was just trying everything or someone sabatoged it.) 3. Some circuit is fried on the boad because of the situation noted in number 2. 4. Its normal operation for this contoller to cut the heat in high jet mode. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Jim
  25. Question: I installed the Balboa VS500Z pack from Spaguts.com in August 2017. This weekend the control panel started registering code HL (Difference between temperature sensors and a possible flow problem) and eventually LF (persistent Low flow problems) The heater shuts off and the temperature drops significantly. None of the issues Balboa suggest seem to be present. Water level is normal, pump seems primed, changed filter. I can keep resetting the pump and it will eventually heat back up, but I have to be in the tub hitting the pump button every 5 minutes or so to make that happen. Any other options, recommendations to get this cleared? Spaguts.com customer service sent Thank you for your inquiry. If your heating pump is Pump1 and you used the provided pump cord, then there should be four wires connected to the motor. When the spa needs to heat the water, it will activate the low speed circuit and supply 240V between the white and black wires. If the voltage is present and the motor is not running, then there is an issue with the motor. (not too clear on what they are suggesing I do here)
×
×
  • Create New...