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Heater on 91 Hotsprings Classic burned out. Measured open with meter. I did notice that one of the posts of the plug had turned a copper color and had some rubber or plastic around the base of it, Possibly from the receptacle on the control panel. Seems like that post may have been over heated.The circulation pump was working fine. The tub has been working fine all summer and up to a week ago was at 104 deg.. I was lucky enough to find a local Hotsprings dealer who had one in stock yesterday (#31255) and replaced it. There are no leaks after replacement so I turned back on yesterday but the heater would not heat up. I checked for any heat after a few hrs and its like heater never turns on. I have a concern that I may have damaged the heater because I measured the resistance at 80 ohms before I installed and now its at 8 ohms. (that to me is almost a short ckt) I am now suspecting something in the control box, probably a stuck relay, etc. That may be why one of the plug posts overheated and discolored. So my questions are 1. What is the resistance on a new heater supposed to be ? 2. What could cause the heater to burn out and the new one not to turn on ? 3. Anyone have a schematic of the control box ? I had to drain the tub today because I'm in NH and the temp is in the 20's now. I plan to pull the heater and pump today and see it the heater will work with 115 VAC directly applied to the plug posts. Thank you for any help. I'm desperate to get this fixed for the winter. Al

I have a 700 Series Vita, about 10 years old. Has been a great tub overall. About a month ago, (with tub set at 102 degrees), found the water temp reading at 99. The circ pump was running but the heater indicator on the control panel was not lit. If I press the "temp up" button, to 103 or 104, the heater indicator on the control panel appears for 2 seconds and goes off again. (and it is not an indicator problem as I can tell the tub is not heating) if I come back a few hours later, the tub will be up to temp again, and if I adjust the temp up or down, the heater indicator goes on or off accordingly. this is a daily occurrence now. I have reset the tub to factory specs by turning off power for 5 minutes and then holding clear for 10 seconds per the manual. I have replaced the temp sensor, no change in symptoms. so, 1/2 the time the tub functions as designed, and 1/2 the time, it will cycle down to 97 to 99 degrees and not kick on the heater, or when I manually adjust the temp higher. so, my issue is one of a few things (I think). Either there is a "time issue" that it will not function in some time window, or it is a limit issue...ie; the tub runs and heats for a period of time and then it shuts down until something cools off and resets?, or just an intermittent "fault" somewhere. scratching my head.... (and of course this is happening in the middle of an Iowa winter..hoping not to convert my tub into a 300 gallon block of ice)

I have a Tiger River Spa, the Sumatran N model. Recently, the water went cold, and I could not get it to heat. After following threads and discussions in this site and others, I tested and was able to determine that the heater was bad. At that point, everything else in the spa worked, and no circuits had been tripped. Jets ran, control board worked, main circuit board green light and red light both lit. The failed heater was a Watkins No Fault 6000 with the following information on the sticker on the bottom of the unit: 240V6000W, THJ01, SET-DO-OH-CO, 11113, 240328, 36(8?)10 REV K. The replacement heater, as recommended by Watkin's, is a Watkins PDR Titatium 1.5KW/6KW - model #73790. I drained the tub, replaced the heater, and then refilled the tub with the filter removed and the hose in the filter housing tube to reduce the chance of air locks. I then replaced the filter, turned the power back on, and purged the pumps by turning the jets on and off. Everything appeared to work properly. I then added a bottle of the enzyme mix from Carefree Spa, called Le Natural Spa, which I have used for the last 6-8 months. Per instructions, I removed the filter, and added the solution to the filter housing. The instructions then called for me to circulate the spa for 15 minutes. I turned on the jets, and went about cleaning up. After about five minutes, the jets stopped. The jets "on" icon was still visible on the read out on the control board, but no jets operation. I tried to turn the jets off and then on, but to no avail. I checked the circuit board and no circuits had been tripped. I then cut the power to the spa at the circuit board, and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. When I powered it back up, but the jets would still not kick in. Instead, there was a clicking sound from the circuit boards, and I noticed that when I first pushed the jets button, a small green light would light at the very top of the smaller relay board, and then it would click and the very small green led light went out and the small red led light next to it would come on. Previously this had been a constant green. I tried turning off the heater at the circuit board, to see if the jets would then work with the heater out of the mix. That did not work. It was getting late, so I let the tub heat overnight. The heater brought the water temp to the set temperature during the night. In the morning, I went out and tried the jets again, and they came on, but once again after a few minutes they shut down. I have powered the spa down from the main circuit box and let sit for 30 minutes before powering up again, to no avail. At this point, all I get is the above described clicks and shift from the small green to red led on the top of the smaller relay board. I also tried inserting the hose with water turn on high into the filter housing tube to remove any air locks. Any ideas anyone?

I will be replacing a 10 year old Pentair Minimax NT TSI 250 (nat gas) w/DDTC heater in Houston TX area on a 18K gallon inground pool with spa. We have had numerous problems over the years and I'm tired of repairing. Blower rusted out AGAIN and core is very rusty so that will need replacing soon. I don't want to put more money into it at this point. We don't usually heat the pool with it but I want it to work for the spa when I want to use it. What brand and model do you recommend and why?

Hello all, i have a hot tub heater that has a problem, when powering the hot tub on from the mains in the house the heater turns on (without pump on) and sounds like a kettle while control panel is showing heater is off? it then eventually trips the red button near the heater element after about 40 seconds.if i turn on the control panel the heater on the pump starts and heater does not trip until up to temp. After opening the heater cover the wires around the heater and ''sensors'' look like they need replacing,i have opened main control box and the heater relay also looks like it has been very warm. what could cause heater to turn on without the lcd controller's main power light on??? what would you suggest i look at 1st? the lcd works as it should fine on everything else. there is also lots of flow when the pump for heater is on. https://www.flickr.com/photos/25806980@N04/25502362986/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/25806980@N04/24901783923/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/25806980@N04/25435745211/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/25806980@N04/25232878030/in/photostream/

Hi all, first post here so please forgive me if I do something wrong... I have a 12 year old Southwest Spa with HydroQuip guts (product HQ6000 - order code CS6220-U). A few weeks ago I drained the tub and cleaned it like I do regularly, and after filling it took twice as long to heat back up. Normally it takes roughly 4 hours to heat and this time it took 8. On top of that it has been having a hard time keeping the temperature at 100. Where before the pumps/heater only came on as needed, now they are running all the time. Last night I noticed that the temp has begun to fall as it was at 96 and holding. the top side controls say that the heater is on (or calling for it), but I don't see the heater light on the controller lit. All other functions and flow seem normal, and there are not any error codes or warning lights. I will put an ohm meter / multimeter to it this weekend, but my initial thoughts are that the heater may need replacing. Thoughts? Suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated. thanks, Kent

He ya'll, its my first post altough i've been following the forum for a few years now. I have A HOTSPRING VANGUARD, serial VV3M2392, which I bought used, I'm not sure what year is it, and I have been using it for maybe 18 months, but recently it began to shut off itself more often, a message on the screen says "protection mode" or something like that because is in spanish, and says to check filters for cleanliness, to reset main switch or to call service. At first I fixed it temporarily by cleanning filters more often, but then I began to shut down more and more often. on the manual says that when spa does not heat, green logo and blue logo blinking only two probable causes can be: Integrated pressure switch open or circulation pump overheating, since filters are clean, I would think the pressure switch is not working properly. I removed the filter from the circulation pump to be sure and still have same problem I live down in Mexico right now and its not easy to get proper spa service here, I have a friend that was helping me, but he has not answer for quite a few weeks now, he told me to first change the temperature sensors on the heater, there's two, one for the high limit and one for control, and to try this before changing the whole heater. I sent him money for the sensors but he still has not send them to me, its been 8 weeks since that and the spa its losing the best season for use. Since its not easy either to get parts over here, I took the heater off the spa this morning and I am checking it on my work table for cleanliness and to see if I can take it apart to change or clean more thoroughly. From what I've read, I think the pressure switch its not working properly, I'm trying everything before having to replace the whole heater which I think its about 400 bucks and I have to get someone to bring it down to me here in Mexico. Can the pressure switch be replaced?, How can I test it? or can it be jumped? I saw some replacement heaters that doesnt have pressure switch and come with a jumper. Can the temperature sensors do this? BTW I tried to remove the pressure switch from the heater and broke it from the thread, I think I can fix this with some glue but may be I should just replace the whole heater. I forgot to tell that the circuit breaker for the heater some times tripped its the 30 amp I think. Please Advice Eugene

Recently acquired my parents Hotspring Sovereign 2003 model. Had to replace heater relay board and small circulation pump. Panel lights operating as they shoukd now, spa is properly primed from what I can tell, ozone with bubbles working as they should. Now when I turned on heater breaker, set temp to 102, after about 5 minutes the breaker trips. I feel the water warm where the bubbles rise so it seems to be heating. Heater is Watkins no fault 6000. Any suggestions or advice would be helpful.

I have a balboa EL2001M3 controller, and the bot tub will not heat. No error codes on startup, and the heater indicator on the control panel shows that it is heating. Checked incoming voltage at controller, 245 volts. Checked voltage at heater element leads, 000 volts. Resistance at heater leads with power off reads .009 ohms, within tolerance for a 5.5kw heater. Circulation pump appears to be running normally, good flow, both jet pumps come on and function normally. Not sure what to check next. Entire circuit board was replaced about four years ago by hot tub supplier that built the hot tub, everything has been fine since then. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey Everyone, First off I'd like to start by saying I'm a new member on this forum and also a new hot tub owner as of last week. So here's the situation, a friend of ours gave us her old hot tub which is a 2001 Sundance Caprio. We got the hot tub home, hooked up the power, and filled it up. Everything seemed to be working fine, the jets were running the control panel lit up and there were no errors. I put the cover on and came out a few hours later to find that the temperature had only gone up a degree or two and the jets had been on most of that time. My first thoughts were that the heater must be broken so I hooked the heater up the control panels power directly and it heated up almost instantly so I ruled out that. When inside the control box I noticed that the connection to the circuit board where the heater was coming out was black and fried. I then went online and purchased a new circuit board which will be her in a few days. Another concern I have is that I'm not sure how the circulation pump works, I can definitely here it humming but I'm not sure if it's actually running or not. The circulation pump definitely gets really hot and even heats up the water lines coming out of it. I don't see any water coming out on the inside of the hot tub, is there a dedicated jet or is it the big round thing on the side my the feet thats about 4-5 inches in diameter and has a bunch of tiny holes in it? Or maybe the pressure just isn't enough to be visible from the surface of the hot tub. Also, would the circulation pump still operate even if the heater wasn't working? Sorry, I know I have a lot of questions I just don't want to put a $250 circuit board in and then have it fry because something else was messed up originally. I've read a lot of forums and topics based on the Sundance Caprio and it seems this is a common problem for the circuit board to go after 10+ years. Thanks for any help or insight anyone could give into my situation.

Hello, I have a Bullfrog model #362 spa, the control box is a Balboa EL 1500. I've had the spa for 5 years, it has worked well until recently. The first thing I noticed was the GFCI tripped last May, but I had been washing off the deck near the spa and thought maybe it was from that, moisture possibly getting inside, but don't really know. It has since tripped a couple more times at random the last few months, shutting the entire spa down. I don't know if that is a separate issue or if it could be related to the pump/heater issue as well. The spa has two pumps, when one or both are turned on in either low or high speed, they are supposed to automatically shut off after 30 minutes. What sometimes happens is after pump 1, which has the heater assembly, shuts off automatically as it's supposed to, if turned on high again for another 30 minute cycle it will shut off prematurely, in roughly 10-15 minutes and can't be turned back on, even though the light on the display panel indicates that pump 1, is on. If pump 2 is turned on high as well at the same time, it will remain on and function normally. While pressing the pump 1 button after it shuts down, you can hear a clicking sound and sometimes on occasion a 'dr' or 'dr4' code will appear, but not always. After 30 minutes or so, pump 1 can be turned on again and bascially act 'normal'. I've tried resetting the spa by turning it off at the circuit breaker after pump 1 shuts off prematurely, to see if that would reset it sooner, but pump 1 remains shut off when powered back up, until a certain time period has passed, after which, it will function bascially "normal' again, at least until you try to run it through another 2nd 30 minute cycle on high where it may or may not, shut off prematurely. On low speed or during a maintence cycle circulating the water, pump 1 will stay on continually, i.e. not shut off prematurely, and it heats the water without any issue or error codes. I have replaced the filters, drained and refilled the spa, taking care to fill it so an air lock wouldn't develop. While the spa was drained, I looked inside the heater and pump 1 impeller and did not see blockage of any kind. Both the pump and heater, at least to my untrained eye, don't seem to be rusted or corroded. I am wondering if perhaps it might be a sensor issue? The spa also has an ozonator, I don't know if that is of any importance or not. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice in dealing with this problem. I live in a remote area so it's expensive to get a technician out so I'm trying to explore as many options as I can before having to resort to doing that or at the least have some knowledge of what may or may not be causing the issues.

Hi, I tried to fire pool heater and get this message HI LIM SW. I pulled cover off and I see schematic with switch reset but cannot find actual switch. Any ideas?

My tub is having intermittent issues heating, would call for heat and the heat light would come on, but the heater would only come on very sporadically. This is my board: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/lx10-spa-builders-circuit-board-sundance.aspx I started tracing the 240V with my meter and followed one line to a relay and on to the heater - this one was working fine. I traced the other line into 2 relays in series. The voltage was going through the first relay correctly and then never made it to the output of the second relay. So I pulled the wire off and bypassed the second relay and sure enough heater is working perfect now. I tested this setup and the heater is cycling fine with the thermostat and I even pulled off a wire from the flow sensor and that also turned off the heater correctly. Am I risking anything running like this? Not sure if the second relay was shot or whatever sensor that was connected to it was shot. Maybe hi heat sensor??? All opinions welcomed.

Hello. I think my pressure switch is bad and am going to replace it. On my hot tub the pressure switch is pointed toward the back of the tub and looks inaccessible without being able to remove the heater tube. The tube and control panel are all contained in a plastic liner which makes access difficult. Can anybody offer any suggestions? THanks. Jeff

Ok. I have been having problems with the heater housing from my spa and not sure how to fix it. I have a Dynasty Spas spa with the In.XE spa pack that i got from Trevi in Montreal Quebec. For the first little while i would only have problems with mechanical/electronic things like the control board or the spa pack, and even once the 240/110 converter box, and those were all fixed under warranty. Last winter (2013) however i had a leak in the spa somewhere and the spa started emptying until only enough water was left in the bottom. This was mid winter so it froze. Long story short i had to have TONS of piping underneath redone. At that time, they claimed that the leak started within my heater assembly and they said the reason for the leak was that the spa was not meant to run on salt, and also that the water chemistry was off, and that that was what caused the small hole which eventually led to a crack in one of the seals. So they replaced the heater, which i had to pay for, and i called Gecko, the makers of the spa pack. They actually sell a salt system and said that salt systems are ok to use in this spa. So i continued again and no problems until the end of this winter (couple of weeks ago). I started noticing a small puddle of water that never dried up near the corner. So today i managed to open up the front panel and take a look inside. Now i am not sure if there's a full sized hole in it or around it, but there was definitely water leaking out from there somewhere. The heater assembly had salt accumulation along various parts of it. So i took it all out and the 3 nuts at the top where the heater cables come out were all rusted. I am not sure what to do at this point. I can replace the heater for around $100 but i want to stay with a salt system as the bromine has adverse effects on my skin. Can anyone give me some tips maybe on how to keep it under control? I use the Technichlor Salt System and for the first few years everything was fine. It's just these past 2 years that have caused the problems. Thanks in advance. I can post pics if anyone thinks it will help.

Hello All, Hope i'm in the right place for a hot tub heater question. I have a Pentair Minimax NT tsi heater. I tried to heat up the hot tub the other day and the following happened. The heater came on. I have the model with the little glass window. I could see a small glow of the starter, then the burners lit (the glow through the window was brighter and more intense), the fan blew HOT exhaust out of the top exhaust...it ran for several seconds and then the burners and igniter went out. The fan continued to blow warm-ish air out of the exhaust. Several seconds later the igniter started to glow, the burners lit and HOT air was coming out the top. It shut down again. This cycle happened a couple times and then the service light came on and it threw an E05 code. I bought and replaced the Thermistor and a new igniter. Still same codes. I ordered a new flame sensor and will put that in when it comes in. Is there something more i should be doing? Am I going in the wrong direction? Thanks in advance for your expertise, Gabe

Hello All, Hope i'm in the right place for a hot tub heater question. I have a Pentair Minimax NT tsi heater. I tried to heat up the hot tub the other day and the following happened. The heater came on. I have the model with the little glass window. I could see a small glow of the starter, then the burners lit (the glow through the window was brighter and more intense), the fan blew HOT exhaust out of the top exhaust...it ran for several seconds and then the burners and igniter went out. The fan continued to blow warm-ish air out of the exhaust. Several seconds later the igniter started to glow, the burners lit and HOT air was coming out the top. It shut down again. This cycle happened a couple times and then the service light came on and it threw an E05 code. I bought and replaced the Thermistor and a new igniter. Still same codes. I ordered a new flame sensor and will put that in when it comes in. Is there something more i should be doing? Am I going in the wrong direction? Thanks in advance for your expertise, Gabe

Jandy Pool Heater LX400N-L Manufactured 2003 will light sometimes and when it does, it will not re-light when the water cools off. I get an AGS error code. Before this happened it was blowing a 2A fuse. The tech said it was time for a new heater. Any suggestions before spending $3000+?

Ok....I have a 2004 Hot Springs Prodigy Spa. We used it one night, everything worked fine. The next day, it was cold. I took the heater board relay off and it was scorched. I replaced it. Now, I have no heat still. No blinking lights except on the new board (D9 LED but the parts supply store said as long as the green light is on next to it, ignore the blinking red light), tested the heaters ohms (10.3ohms), have power to everything except the red wire from the main board that jumpers over to the heater relay board.... The only thing I haven't changed is the circulation pump, which is working, and the thermistors...I'm at a loss.....

Hello folks, hoping to get some help. Running a spa pack with air switches, 2 speed pump, the slower speed runs while the tub is heating up, then kicks off when it hits the desired temp (at full setting on the spa pack usually between 102 and 105 degrees f.), then kicking back on and off as the thermostat dictates. The Problem: The spa keeps tripping the GFI. As far as I can tell from monitoring the situation, it's happening right when the water hits the desired temp and the pump shuts back off from the low speed. I had an electrician friend test the GFI and he says it's fine at this point. happy to answer any specifics. much thanks in advance. Ajax.

I have a natural gas lrz heater that is reading the wrong temp. Reads 93 when water is 80 ish, it turns on if I set the dial higher than 93 but its getting worse so I would like to fix it. Should I just replace the temp sensor or can I clean it or someething? Or is it another issue entirely? Thanks a lot

I have a 2003 hot springs spa and the heater keeps shutting off within 2 minutes of turning the spa on. The circ pump is new and flowing good with a lot of bubbles so I am getting good flow through the heater. The filters are new too. The thermistors are a year old so I don't think it is those. I thought it might have been the heater relay board so I replaced that but that did not solve the problem. Any thoughts?

New member - found this forum online - please excuse this thread if I am not participating properly... I have a one-year old Jandy LRZ heater. It worked fine all winter, but now it won't heat above 94 degrees. It also reports an incorrect water temperature. Other than that, it appears to be working properly. Thanks in advance for any replies......

Hello, I am in the process of replacing all of our equipment as we complete a pool remodel here in Los Angeles. The only thing we are keeping is a Hayward Salt Chlorination System. We need to replace the heater, pump and filter on our approx. 24,000 gallon pool. Is a variable speed pump necessary? Worth the expense? Also, is 400k BTU overkill. We get pretty direct sun for most of the day from about 10am-5pm but the water never really gets above 75' consistently unless we have 90' weather for a few days straight. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

I just bought a like new 2012 Jetsetter and I have a question.... My 30 amp GCFI in my sub panel has an inside terminal on the back of the breaker on the neutral side....when I connected the load wire to that terminal, the water coming out of the return was extremely hot! When I connect it to the outside neutral, it feels like its around 100* or so. Is the 6k heater much hotter than the 1,500w ? It does not maintain temp very well. After 20-25 minutes in 45* tonight, the temp went from 103 to 98. I also noticed that I can't feel any heat coming from the return while the jets are on...I thought that was the whole point of wiring it 230? Please help with this! Thanks!