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Everything posted by Figi4

  1. Thank you for the detailed reply. I apologize for not understanding or being clueless. I am really trying to learn all that I can so that I can cause the least amount of damage to this old spa. I added a bit of water a couple of days ago and we are not going to be getting in it this weekend to try and get it balanced properly. Also it is a bit cloudy still after our last use, which is new for us. To decontaminate, we followed Nitro's steps and did 2 rounds using Ahh-some, emptying and filling and cleaning the shell well in between. Then we added 50ppm bleach and let it set for a day and drained it. Then followed the 3 step Bromine method using hth's Brom-Start, refilling with city tap water and tried to balanced it. We had quite a bit of foaming and issues balancing, so to be safe we drained it and refilled it one more time, again using the 3 step bromine method. This time it worked out pretty well. My husband and I only use the spa on the weekends, 2 days max, for about 2-3 hours each evening. On Monday I rinse off the filter, which is still white and only has a few specks of debris. I then test the water with Taylor K-2106 for Bromine Spa. I test the FC, PH and TA, occasionally the CH (currently at 130ppm). Once I have those readings, I enter them into the PoolCalculator.com and: If the TA is not within range of 130-400ppm, I lower with muriatic acid or raise with baking soda. Once it's circulated for a few hours, I turn it off and let it sit before retesting to confirm the TA is in range and see where the PH is now at. If PH is not in range of 7.2-7.8, I raise with aeration or lower with muriatic acid. The FC is almost always 0 or just above it. Once the above are balanced I use Spa Selections Non-chlorine Shock Oxidizer for Spa and Hot Tub - bottle says 2.4oz for my 300gal spa. I also have a floater with Spa Selections Bromine Tablets, but unsure if I keep it in at all times or just after the FC readings come down?. I have TSP to soak the filter. I have only used it once, about 3 weeks ago. I didn't think it needed it but just wanted to be certain. The zorbo sponge we've been using is still white and floating in the top 4" of water. After reading reviews I was expecting to see it discolor. Any time I test the water in the days following shocking, the readings are high, around 30ppm and fall to around 15-20ppm by Friday. I will uncover the tub a couple of times a week and circulate for a good part of the day. I'm not sure of any other way to lower the FC readings. Looking at my notes I see that the TA has been steadily dropping even with adding baking soda. Jun 30th 75ppm, Jul 11th 50ppm - added .67oz baking soda, Jul 19th 40ppm - added 1.4oz baking soda, and now Jul 22 it's 10ppm. I have yet to add borate, I'm not sure what it's for yet, but I will read up on it.
  2. An update - We had 2 weekends of no foam and were pretty happy. I test the water each Monday after me and my hubby use it for a few hours each night on the weekends. I balance it and shock it. We don't let anything get into the water (drinks etc), we clean off before getting in, and our suits are only rinsed well in water with no soap. So I thought that we were doing good. Well, today I tested the water before shocking (Bromine 0, PH 7.0, TA 40 ). I added 1.4oz baking soda (according to pool calc for my 300 gal) and it immediately started back with the foam. I am so disappointed. I went ahead and added the shock and will aerate it for the rest of the day. A secondary question - When I shock, the FC/Bromine reading is of course high, but I can't seem to get it down to under 15ppm before the weekend. It is on a covered porch and covered most days, when I'm not testing and aerating for a few hours or longer. So we end up getting in it anyway at about 20ppm, sometimes 15ppm. Yet after we use it a few hours a night for those 2 days on the weekend, the reading is usually 0ppm on Monday. I can't seem to keep it active even with a floater. Last weekend I only did half the amount of shock and still had high reading by the following Friday.
  3. After doing the decontamination procedure twice and the high sanitizer procedure once, once we balanced the final fill, there was no foam during running the jets. However, as soon as we got in, the foam started. It wasn't bad enough to make us want to get out, and the foam immediately dissolved after we turned off the jets/blower. So I'm guessing it is due to our clothing? Also we use one of those zorbo sponges, after 3 uses it's still new looking. After the first dip I started just throwing our towels and swimwear in the washer on rinse only, but so far there is no change. I also did a TSP soak of the filter for an hour, rinsed it well, followed by a muriatic acid dip and rinse too. My question is - is there a way to get rid of the foam without draining? I've tried Spa Selections Foam Out, which only dissolves it for a brief bit of time, under an hour. My other question is - If it has to do with clothing, why have I never experienced foaming at hotels and apartments? That gets many uses and many types of clothing. Just curious. Thanks!
  4. I just tested and everything looks good but the the CH is at 130ppm. It's not foaming, but we haven't been getting in yet either. Should I bump it up to about 200ppm, or wait and see? Thanks y'all!
  5. I have a Taylor kit but lost the book. The quick guide only states what to do if its too high. I have taken over ownership of a pretty old Morgan spa, its above ground fiberglass. I've just filled it and trying to balance it proper to get as much life out of it as possible.
  6. I know it's probably obvious but I can't seem to find it anywhere. When using the Taylor test kits, how do you test or read for LOW calcium? Google gives me nothing but what to do if I have low levels, but not how to see if I even do or not. Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding it. Thanks
  7. Thanks @waterbear. I've been sticking to it and finally got the water to balance to finish the decontamination process. We cleaned and refilled it and now in the process of balancing it to add the bromine as suggested in the 3 Step process. It's going much better now that I understand it more. It also looks great to not see the brown scum building up on the side walls. I really worried that would never fully stop and that it was just a lost cause without multiple decontaminations, which I wasn't looking forward to do.
  8. PH: 8.0 TA: 80ppm Bromine: have not added any CH: 120ppm Water Temp: 74F Spa is off as of now and is uncovered, but sitting on a covered porch. When doing the testing: Using the K-2106 testing kit and measuring the pH, it states to add 5 drops of R-0004 and to cap and mix. The resulting color matches the highest level, which shows 8.0. It may be higher but I am not sure since my kit only shows up to the 8.0. Now when I use a dip strip it shows the range to be close to the 7.2 color, but I know that y'all say not to rely on those so that is why I bought the kit. I can see why. When then adding the 2 drops of the R-0005, it turns the color that I am shooting for which is 7.2. When check the TA, I add the 5 drops of R-0008 like it states and the water turns green and then when I start adding the R-0009, the color changes to pink on the 8th drop, which suggests that TA is 80ppm. I do not have any bromide/bromine in it as I was under the impression that is not needed for this part, just when refilling after I've done the decontamination. If it does I'll need to order some more bromide as they do not sell those near me and I only have enough for one fill. Maybe I am misunderstanding Step 4 and that's why I cannot get the PH to come down?
  9. Ok ill get those. But real quick, I don't have sanitizer in it. Reading step 4 sounds like the TA & PH need to be done before adding the sanitizer??
  10. I am trying to do the decontamination process from Nitro. I have already done the enzyme part and dumped that. Now it's filled and I am trying to balance it to the TA of 80 and PH of 7.2. I've got the TA at 80 but nothing is getting the PH down. I just bought the test kit K-2106. The PH is showing at the highest level, and I only have to add 2 drops and it turns pink. So I check the book and for my 350 gallon spa I calculate that I need .63875 oz of muratic acid (18.89 ml) I do that and come back a few hours later or the next morning and test again. It gives me the same thing - high PH and 2 drops turns it pink. I've done this 4 times now. The only thing differently that I've done is that there is no filter. I accidentally missed the part of throwing the filter into the spa when I put the enzyme in and have a new one ordered. I didn't think it would be a good idea to put the dirty one back in. (The spa set with water for over a year - covered on a covered porch. Water was still crystal clear.) Any ideas on what I should do?
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