RDspaguy
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Posts posted by RDspaguy
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Pic of wiring diagram and upper right side of board.
New packs include a jumper wire for use in the event of 120v only operation. Is it possible it was not accidentally knocked off but was never installed and just left in the pack?
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Remove filter.
Check for good flow from the circulation pump and lots of tiny bubbles from the footwell.
Post pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.
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On 10/5/2023 at 11:21 AM, AZ_Pool said:
with a dual-speed pump
On 10/5/2023 at 11:21 AM, AZ_Pool said:Intelliflo VSF
You have a variable speed pump, and the speeds are programmed according to the function. Cleaner will run faster than pool to feed the pop-ups for example.
On 10/5/2023 at 11:21 AM, AZ_Pool said:Pentair IntelliCenter2
Speeds and functions are programmed here. Not recommended for DIYers.
Without knowing the current settings and resulting flow rates, mathematical optimization is out.
Given the use of a salt cell, shortened run times will require higher output to maintain sanitation.
Dialing in a system takes time. They started you off playing it safe for sure, since every pool is different and they can't see the future. You can fiddle with run times, adjusting the salt cell appropriately, but I'd leave the speeds alone, they can be tricky. Run them too low and you'll find things don't work when the filter is a little dirty for example.
On 10/5/2023 at 11:21 AM, AZ_Pool said:am happy to adjust it based on "swim season" and "non-swim season
If you have a "non-swim season" you should close the pool to save money like the rest of the country. I know it's hot in AZ, but if it's not being used why run it?
The biggest difference between use and non-use is chlorine depletion, and with a cover on it you will have much less of that as well, so reduced run times may be possible but you'll want to monitor it closely until you get it dialed in.
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16 hours ago, wieky said:
Checking from the heater core to neutral coming into the board.
On 10/5/2023 at 10:02 AM, RDspaguy said:From terminal to terminal,
One leg is always on unless there is an overheat. You will always read 120 to neutral or ground on a 240v heater. You must test terminal to terminal for 240v.
12 hours ago, wieky said:I'm not sure which relays to replace on the board
The 3 closest to the heater connections.
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1 hour ago, Knaub said:
believe all the lights on the motherboard are dark,
I need to know for sure. If so, it's detecting a sensor error, which when occuring intermittently and varying with set temp is usually a flow problem or stuck relay causing a heater overheat. However, in your pic I see what appears to be burned solder points on the transformer board, as well as black splatters which often indicate a blown capacitor. Power transformer issues can cause erratic behavior as well. I suspect you're going to need a new board or control system.
Also, are those a reflection or heat discoloration on the heater tube?
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You don't have a high limit switch, you have a sensor, and it should be under the plate on the heater tube.
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5 hours ago, wieky said:
heating element was only getting 120 volts rather than 240
From terminal to terminal, or are you using a touchless voltmeter?
5 hours ago, wieky said:pump turns off like it should but the heating element is still getting the 120 volts.
The heater has 3 relays, two of which close (turn on) immediately when power is turned on unless there is a high temp error. This sends 120v to the heater, and you will read 120v on a touchless tester, even though the heater is not on. The third relay is thermostat controlled and prone to failure as it is the only one to open/close under load. This one closes the 240v heater circuit and the heater heats up.
If your relay was stuck your heater would run while the pump was off which would boil the water in the heater and cause a number of errors on the display. Is this happening?
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18 hours ago, parker said:
do have a multi meter, all three tested the same, so I assume they're all good.
Tested how? For voltage to the coil, continuity on the coil, continuity on the contacts, or all of the above? No disrespect, but we hear people say with confidence that they did this or that when they did not all the time.
18 hours ago, parker said:board and topside was $689.99 plus tax canadian.
Ouch! Unless Canadian dollars are worth about half of US dollars, you got hosed. But then, what do I know about prices in Canada? I hear your economy is worse off than ours, in spite of the maple syrup monopoly.😉
I hope it works out my friend, sincerely, but I think you jumped the gun on this one.
Let us know how it goes.
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9 hours ago, parker said:
Would it have to be both sensors bad though?
No. But both being bad is quite possible, and I always recommend replacing them in pairs. They're easy to test with an ohm meter.
Bottom line, without a tester we're all just guessing. You can throw parts at it or get a multimeter. Sounds like you're throwing parts, so I hope it works out.
Out of curiosity, how much was the board and topside?
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If you watch the set temp climbing rapidly it's likely a shorted control circuit. If the topside is new, it must be on the board. Remove circuit board and check the back for burns/ debris and the plug for moisture/ corrosion.
If it's the water temp climbing it's a sensor or flow issue.
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The topside is just buttons and a display, it plays no part in the function of the automated system itself. The spa will heat and filter without it.
The --f is it searching for a temp, which could be faulty sensors. I'd start there, they're cheap. You can test them with an ohm meter.
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Sorry Candy, I havent worked on many touch panels. Perhaps there is some moisture intrusion.
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Post pics of the circuit board and wiring diagram.
Have your hubby test voltage to the pump at the board to determine if it is switching in the controls or pump.
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There are 3 heater relays. Typically only the one controlled by the thermostat goes bad.
On 9/27/2023 at 6:39 PM, Boats Bros said:I’m not sure how I would test the relays while hooked up on the hot tub,
I'm not sure how you'd test a control system with the board out.
On 9/27/2023 at 6:39 PM, Boats Bros said:They all clicked open and closed.
And you tested them for open/closed or just heard them click? A blown point in the relay does not stop the electromagnet from moving the mechanism, it just doesn't make contact.
At a guess I'd say they missed the bad relay.
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Any errors on the display? There should be.
That's a well-insulated tub that has no capacity to cool itself. Just the pumps will keep it quite hot in warmer months. Add in worn out pumps running hotter than normal and it can be a problem. Try removing the front panel and let it cool some.
Post pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. Detail any error codes.
Do you own a multimeter?
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Unfortunately that's the price you pay for having jets for the shoulder/neck. My Viking does the same, and I just keep the water level higher. You can usually turn them down or off by twisting the jet face, if you prefer a lower level.
I LOVE it when I hit the jets button to add chems and get sprayed in the face by 2 jets! SOOOO invigorating!😉
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Post pics of the equipment area, circuit board, and plumbing lines.
When the red light is flashing check the LEDs on the board. Which are lit? Post pics.
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12 hours ago, chamel413 said:
So you don't think it has anything to do with the circuit board?
No.
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Started here june 6 2022 and last appeared june 26 2022. Guess he found this post about him. I doubt we'll be hearing FROM him anymore, but apparently we'll never stop hearing ABOUT him.
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Sounds like the element vibrating against the tube. Maybe some debris caught on it. I'd remove the heater and check.
Elements are pretty cheap, I'd say you might want to replace it while it's apart anyway.
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Flat is more important than level. Not flat will destroy your spa, while not level is usually just a visual irritation.
Consider that your spa holds somewhere around 400 gallons of water, at about 8lbs per gallon. So, a ton and a half of water, give or take, on top of the spa weight. And you want to frame it with a couple inches of pine and backfill with sand, which acts much like a liquid under pressure? At least use concrete.
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The ozone circuit should turn off for 30 minutes, or perhaps until the next filter cycle, any time ANY BUTTON is pressed. Are you sure it SHOULD be on when you are testing?
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Post pics of equipment area.
Is there good flow from the jets on high?
Any strange noises?
Remove filters until resolved.
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@All Spas ServicesI used to know an All-spas in StL many years ago. Moved to florida I think. That's not you is it?
2002 Sundance Caprio - main motor won’t run without help
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
I would try a capacitor, but I probably have one laying around.
If it started by hand I'd say cap, but if it needed high rpm (screwgun) to run it suggests a start switch or coil problem. The switch is no big deal, but the coil is not worth repairing.
I'd say some further digging is in order. Or just get a new one if that's the best option for you.