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CanadianSpaTech
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Posts posted by CanadianSpaTech
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Still you have a copper ground wire where the neutral should be. Look at the schematic.
13 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:Then you have a copper ground wire where it should be a white Neutral wire. Then you have a skimpy red wire that should be a copper ground wire and at bottom you have a white wire in line 2 which should be a red (hot) wire.
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11 hours ago, Jromano8 said:
a new balboa pack.
Did you program the pack when you installed it? Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover
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Is this spa new to you and just hooked up?
I have questions about your incoming power wires.
You have the black (hot) Line 1 at top.. this is correct. Then you have a copper ground wire where it should be a white Neutral wire. Then you have a skimpy red wire that should be a copper ground wire and at bottom you have a white wire in line 2 which should be a red (hot) wire.
Why is the red wire a different size/gauge?
Is there a GFCI in line somewhere in this set up?
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On 10/13/2023 at 9:54 AM, EricT said:
But I'm a bit shocked at how not using it for a few months led to all of these other issues.
Take water out of a hot tub and the air gets at everything. Metal will rust and seals will decay.
On 10/13/2023 at 9:54 AM, EricT said:(assuming that impeller gasket is non serviceable)
Leaking pump seals can be replaced but also buy a new impeller as 9/10 times the break when removing. Lots of how to vids out there.
On 10/13/2023 at 9:54 AM, EricT said:My plan is to drain it
Before draining it run a plumbing line cleaner through it to remove any bio film and bacteria from the plumbing lines. I use Ahh-Some plumbing line cleaner. Wear gloves if you have any cuts on your hands. The bacteria will infect. Don't let the brown stuff dry on the acrylic or you will have a tough time removing it. Watch video on their website.
On 10/13/2023 at 9:54 AM, EricT said:The big replacement items are:
Heater
If the pressure switch is not functioning properly and not allowing the heater to turn on how do you know it is bad?
On 10/13/2023 at 9:54 AM, EricT said:the ozone generator is most likely past due.
Personally I would not replace... but not my money
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First at the incoming power TB1 I think the white wire going to the circuit board is in wrong place. Not a big deal. Please verify.
Next down where the heater connects to the board there are connections from left to right red, red, black, red (Actually White) and black. The second red and the black (coming from TB1) do you get 240V testing red to black at the circuit board? If yes next test white to black do you get 240V... If No remove the board and look on the back where the relay is above the heater connection. It has likely failed. I can also see a bit of black splatter just below that relay on the grey metal housing behind the circuit board.
Let us know results
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7 hours ago, Jonnynitro said:
display shows jets as “OFF”.. but they are still running
Sounds like a stuck pump relay
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Level the spa on blocks and use roofing shingles feathered out from low to high making sure the base is supported evenly. Have used rigid foam board insulation as well that is available in different thicknesses again making sure the spa is supported evenly side to side and front to back. Usually shave the first board to fit as a wedge. Whatever you do make sure the foot well has proper support and as mentioned flat and even is key.
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Usually 12' in a floor so that crane with a 42' reach is not going to work. Purchase the spa 8-10 weeks ahead so you are not burning up warranty time. Ask the dealer if they deliver the spa in house or if they use a professional Hot Tub delivery service. They should be able to do a pre site delivery inspection and make all the proper recommendations for crane delivery and what size crane will be needed.
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I just do what the little voices tell me to do.. and who doesn't like a good blower
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Relays ($20) can be replaced fairly cheap if you have good soldering tools and DIY skills or if you can find a local electronics repair shop
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6 hours ago, Colindec said:
Just the element?
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Temp Sensor is where I'm at.
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The only change will be the heater will run 220. Pumps will still run 120V. What size GFCI did you install? You might be able to run pump on high and the heater at the same time.
Again post photos of the GFCI wiring circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if you want further help.
Look at the GFCI wiring and where does the white coming from from the spa pack go? Did they hook it to the neutral bar or did it go into the GFCI as it should and the white pigtail to the neutral bar.
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Think you should see a "T" on the topside when in test mode. Then you should be able to check the sensors with the up down buttons.
Not really sure what to tell you here. Usually if the sensors are out of sync it will tell you.
On 10/1/2023 at 8:40 AM, parker said:The next morning the display was stuck at 69 degrees but the water was burning hot as it thought it was at 69 and was trying to heat it to 100.
The sensors are what detect the water temp. For it to be "stuck" at 69 on the topside but was still heating beyond that is really odd to me.
Do you know what the actual water temp was when you tried to restart and got the --F. If you can cool the water down below 104 will it restart and detect the temp?
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Do you have a multi meter and know how to use it?
For the blower.. have the blower "ON" with the icon on the display. Test at the circuit board where the blower connects. White to blk = 120V white to red = 120V red to blk =240V If you have power off the board then you likely have a bad blower. The blower will often have a one way check valve that protects water from back tracking and shorting out the blower but if it has failed it will usually cause a breaker trip. Just look for water inside when you remove it.
Start spa in Test mode with dip switch A1 in the on position and use the topside to go through to the sensor a/b test and make sure they are both reading the same temp.
http://service.balboa-instruments.com/ErrorCode/index.html?diag_mess__test_mode.htm
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Need to post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we know what system you have. They are many different control systems.
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The flow switch will look something like below and is usually to the right of the spa pack...
It you look inside (sometimes using a flashlight behind it will make it easier to see) you will see the toggle on the left and the post on the right. The flow of water needs to push the toggle up against the post and make contact. When contact is made the flow switch tells the circuit board there is water flow and that it is ok to turn the heater on. Look for air bubbles inside that might interfere with the water flow and cause error and make sure the toggle is centered and in the middle of the flow/stream of water. You mentioned the circ pump was replaced but wondered if it could be working intermittently. They have been known to stop and start as they wear out but not usually with a new unit unless there is debris that has gotten past the filters and into in the wet end.
If the circ stops and starts and stops when the spa is calling for heat and the heater is engaged the water in the tube can get really hot because the water flow has slowed/stopped and sends the watch dog error. How long ago was the circ pump replaced?
19 hours ago, oggywoog said:Filters are new and clean
Dirty filters are a flow killer. I always remove them during testing to take them out of the equation... New, just cleaned doesn't matter.
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40 minutes ago, TEMPOLEFTY said:
Is there a way that I can send you something to show my appreciation?
Thanks for the offer but not necessary. Pay it forward in some small way... Food bank donation, Cup of coffee for the guy behind you in the drive thru. Enjoy
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1 hour ago, oggywoog said:
and the temp numbers in the display keep jumping around.
When you start up does the temp start at a reasonable number the climb up well past 104 then throw an error code?
Is the flow switch toggle making contact with the post inside the clear housing. Is the toggle/post centered in the flow from the circ in the flow switch housing? Is there air bubbles in the flow switch housing?
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Can be DIY'd fairly easy. Just make sure to look down the tube and make sure the element is not touching the side walls of the heater tube.
https://www.poolandspacentre.co.uk/products/spa-and-hot-tub-elements.html
https://www.outdoorlivinghottubs.co.uk/products/balboa-heater-element-2kw
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Ok hook it back up keep an eye on it and see what happens.
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You can cut and bare the flow switch wire somewhere in the middle and join the 2 wires together bypassing the flow switch. If the heat light comes on then likely a bad flow switch or one that is not making good contact with the post even though it looks like it. (You can easily join the wires back to original if the switch is not the issue.)
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Yes use the spade connectors. And the red and black are interchangeable on the incoming power... just lazy
Old Morgan spa not heating
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Get the wiring right and we can go from there if needed.