stanley9layton

I think it's ozone check valve. For more information than you can also search on the net.

I would firstly check the voltage - if you have low voltage, it could very well have damaged the board thanks to the pump trying to start all night. If you put in a new board, the low voltage could eat it up as well. You may ask why it worked as long as it did and suddenly has low voltage? There are many reasons from corrosion to a bad original job of wiring.

It is possible that it is the heat that is bad. pump one will control the heater. when water runs through the heater it will try and turn on. If the heater is bad it can trip the breaker when it attempts to turn on. try disconnecting the heater and running the pump. you might just need a new heater element. good luck.

Last year, I also faced the same problem at that time I was called to spa repair service provider in Montreal which recommended by my friend. They replaced and repaired my spa on the same day in time. They replaced all spare parts of the spa which they need. If you want to enjoy their affordable services then visit Fix N Go and you will find more choices. Their technicians are well trained to repair all types of spa very fast.

According to me, Class B or Class F insulation systems are most common in today's industrial-duty motors. Smaller sizes, say up to 5 HP, are typically class B. From 5 to 10 HP, many ratings move toward class F. That's also true of premium efficiency and inverter duty motors. Larger than 10 HP, Class F becomes more common. Beyond that, many manufacturers design their motors to operate cooler than their thermal class might allow. For example, a motor might have Class F insulation, but a class B temperature rise. This gives an extra thermal margin. Class H insulation systems are seldom found in general purpose motors, but rather in special designs for very heavy use, high ambient temperature, or high altitude conditions. Class A insulation is not used in today's industrial duty motors, though it can be found on some small appliance motors. Most residential pool pump motors have the insulation ratings of Class B which is good to 130C or 266 F. A marked increase in temp of an OEM motor is a sign of corrosion or bearing failure... but from the sampling I found when I googled "spa motor temps" you seem to be in the working range.