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AlanL's Achievements


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  1. Couple of things here. First of all, I agree that it looks very nice but have you ever tried to step into one of these tubs installed like this? It is very awkward since the normal mode of entry should be a step that is equal in height of where you would step into the tub. Stepping down into the tub feels unsafe, especially with nothing to hang on to. Secondly, as others have said, the service aspect of the tub is lowered unless the pit has at least 3 ft of clearance on the sides where the control panel and pumps reside. If your tub is 7 x 7 you'll then need a 10 x 10 pit. I suppose you could build a lift out filler made of cedar or similar. Lastly, I don't know what kind of cover you have but the easiest to use lift assist mechanisms will not work with this design unless you leave that part of the pit open to accept the cover when the tub is in use. I did build a similar design but into my deck with removable parts to access the tubs hardware, and an open area at the back to give clearance for the cover when swung off with the lift. I also only made the depth equal to the first step into the tub, that way you feel balanced when getting in. Al
  2. Hi all, hoping someone with technical experience can be of assistance here. I have a Master Spa Twilight Series 8.2. Recently the #2 pump has had some trouble starting when called for. It will make the sound of a seized motor and trip the breaker. Fixing the pump isn't the issue here. I have been resetting the breaker and cancelling the #2 pump when it's called for (about 1 minute into the start up cycle) in order to keep the water circulating and disinfected until I perform the pump repair. The problem is that the control board seemed to stop functioning and when I looked into it, the fuse that protects the pump relay had blown. This fuse is an SC type, 30 amp/1000 volt which I cannot find anywhere. I went to an electrical supply outlet and the fellow there said that he couldn't match the fuse with any of the thousands he has in stock, but he also asked why it would be a 1000 volt fuse. The pumps are 230 volts and the relay should be a simple exchange of voltage over the circuit. This dealer has 30 amp/600 volt fuses and I'm just wondering if that fuse will do the trick, or are there other concerns? Thanks, Al
  3. Won't one of these from Home Depot fit your needs? http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Power-Distribution-Breaker-Boxes-Spa-Panels/N-5yc1vZce9b?NCNI-5&searchRedirect=spa+panel&semanticToken=1004+++>+++spa+panel+{category}+ I used a Siemens panel with 60 Amp GFI, worked great for my need. I mounted it high on the back wall of the house where I could get to it from the deck, the wiring is contained in 1" PVC conduit.
  4. I went ahead and turned off the two valves that I could see and proceeded to remove the coupler so I could replace the seal. Ended up draining the entire tub (465 gallons) All good though, the new seal stopped the drip and I didn't require a new collar. The tub is just reaching the the 96 degree mark, should be good to go in an hour or so, thanks again for the help.
  5. Thanks for the reply, I didn't think it made much sense that a valve would be buried within the foam insulation but OTOH, it also doesn't seem right that there isn't an isolation valve beside the pump. Good to know about the collar, hopefully I won't need one, but just in case
  6. Hi people, I purchased a used TS 8.2 spa and have it set up and running, however I have found a leak at the #2 pump coupling. I have tried to tighten the connection but it did not appear to help, at this point I would like to disassemble the connection to obtain a better view of where the issue is, but I cannot seem to locate any relevant slice valve to isolate this pump, there is a slice valve at pump #1 and another at the heater element. Is there perhaps another buried under the mass of insulation? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Al
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