HIPOOLIQ

Riverbend pools in plano, Hauk (pronounced hawk) in Celina. Robertson pool in Allen. The main thing to remember about building a pool is this is an investment.....you get what you pay for. Jandy is the best equipment to use and all three of the builders I mentioned use it. Yes these builders will be more expensive than say Hobert, Platinum, Foley, or Blue Haven but the end result is worth every dime.

Yes the pool can be leveled. It is a process called mud jacking. To find your leak you need to start w/what is called 24 on/off test. Fill your pool up to an established level. Mark that level and run your pool for 24 hrs continously. Measure you loss after 24 hrs. Fill the pool back to the same mark and leave off for 24 hrs. Measure loss after that. This will determine if the loss is somewhere where pressure affects the amt of water lost or if it is a leak in the structure. With the movement of your pool the leak very well could be in the skimmer throats or main drain. I own a pool repair company in the DFW area. Do the test and let me know what you find and I will be glad to give you suggestions and ideas for finding your leak

Sounds bout right. That is about the going rate here in TX. You could get more quotes but they will all be about the same.

Colored lighting in pools w/darker bottoms doesnt look all that good. The darker color will absord the light rather that reflect it. Most colored lights are not as high wattage as your standard white lights are. However if you are set on colored lighting look @ the SAM light by Pentair. It is not a led light like some of the others. I uses two halogen bulbs behind a prismed glass color wheel. Another avenue is the Polaris D-light. It is a led bulb that fits in your existing light fixture. That way you won't have to replace the fixture just the bulb and gasket. I also believe you can get it cheaper than a colored light.

That is exactly what I am saying. The drier the air the better the heat pump works. The lower the humidity the less condensation the unit produces. The less condensation the unit produces the better temp rise you will have in your water. The only heat pump I am aware of that works below 43 degrees is the Ray Pak unit.

Auto clear or Aqaua Pure have been the most reliable in my opinion. And I have installed many different brands.

I am a pool service tech in Dallas TX. I have installed several heat pumps in this area. I would advise getting a heat pump w/a compressor in it so you can use it as chiller as well. The heat pump used ambient air to heat/cool freon and transfer the heat or cool to the water via coils made of copper. In most cases they are 100% efficient or better. Meaning that for every dollar you spend running it you get temp rise result. During the summer you can use the chiller unit to actually lower your water temperature. They work great in mild climates. Here in my area of texas they work great from March to December to keep pools warm. January and February are just too cold to get any of the heat out of the air. Once your outside air temp goes below 43 its hard to warm it up no matter how much freon you use to dry it. Raypak makes a heat pump that will get you down to usage in temps as low as 38 degrees. I highly recommend the heat pump even though the initial cost is a little higher. It will pay for itself in the long run the way fuel prices are these days.

You either need to clean your cartridges or you have something on your return manifold valved down/off.

In my experiance I have found that the Auto Clear by Polaris (not the auto clear plus) or the Aqua Pure by Jandy are the two best units on the market. I have installed both and are very pleased w/both. I have the auto clear on my pool.

Some of the advice that I've seen on this forum is questionable at best from time to time. However this time, I believe that I will have to agree w/the previous response. Salt water is the best solution to your delima. I've installed many and get two responses after the fact...."Why didn't I do it sooner" and "I'll never have anything but". Good luck to ya and look into Salt.

You can do anything to a pool for the right amount of money. Deepening a pool would not be high on the list however. You would open yourself up to a huge leak potential not to mention jepordizing the structure of the entire pool if not done correctly. It would probably be cheaper to jack hammer the whole pool out of the ground and build a new deeper one in its place instead of modifying the existing one.

It shouldn't take but 30 sec to one minute to bleed you air out of your filter even it the filter is completely empty of water. How long is it taking?

Have you checked the oring on the stand pipe that the grid unit sits on. If it is missing that might allow de to pass through the system.......However you need to identify if de is going through the filter because of a problem w/the filter or is a return leak causing de to back up into your pump and suction manifold when the system is off? Several ways to test. Let me know if you want a rundown.