Mark SC

Are you sure it's not normal? Is it a circulation pump or the main pump? Does the topside controller show a normal readout (no flashing)? I had this happen recently and it turned out to be a bad control board, but in my case the pump was turning on and off every few minutes and the topside was flashing on and off as well.

Sorry that your hot tub experience is off to a bad start. You need to tackle your problems in steps. First, follow the guidelines here to sanitize the spa. Then, drain the spa and fix all of the leaks. You will probably need to hire a spa tech for that, but it shouldn't cost too much if the pump and controller are working properly. Finally, ditch the Pristine Blue and use an EPA approved sanitizer. Check out the pinned posts in the spa chemical forum and choose either the dichlor + bleach method or the 3-step bromine method. I know you said you have skin issues. Do you know for a fact that it is aggravated by chlorine and bromine? Some people have sensitivities to one but not both. Also, keep in mind that when done properly, the level of chlorine or bromine that you use will typically be significantly less than what is found in most commercial pools and spas. You may also want to investigate purchasing a salt water chlorine generator like Technichlor or NexaSpa (runs about $300). That would automate the production of chlorine, and I've found it to be the simplest of all sanitation methods. The salt water may also soothe your skin. To keep costs down, you could start with the 3-step bromine system. It's easy, but some people are sensitive to bromine. If you truly are sensitive to both chlorine and bromine (rare), then your next best choice is Nature2, which uses silver ions and MPS. It is also as EPA-approved sanitizer. However, some people (me for one), are sensitive to MPS. You will have to use trail and error for a while to find a sanitation method that works for you, but Pristine Blue is not the way to go. If you need expert help, visit a reputable spa dealer (Hot Springs, Jacuzzi, etc.) in your area. They should be able to point you in the right direction and can test your water and offer recommendations. I don't own a Hot Springs spa, but I buy most of my supplies from my local dealer and find him quite knowledgeable and helpful. Stay away from the pool shop that sold you the Pristine Blue though.

not sure you really want to be using an iPhone in the hot tub...lol. Hot Springs has a good reputation. You pay extra for their long warranty period and dealer network...kind of the Lexis of spas. If you like the spa and like your dealer, that's the route I'd go. I don't own either one, though, so what do I know? Lots of debate on this forum about Master Spas. Use the search box and you'll turn up info on both brands.

Forget the ozone. Stick with a regular sanitation method and you won't need it. Ozone and chlorine tend to counteract each other, so all you need is the chlorine.

See here

This is great advice that people should note. There is no magic in a TA of 100. No need to fight the tub. Just try for an equilibrium that minimizes pH rise/fall.

But what's the fun if we can't play with the chemistry? lol

could you add Captcha to the new member sign up screen--or maybe that's already a feature?

Correction, I missed the section at the bottom of the calculator for that. Thanks

yes, but it doesn't show the pH rise, just the amount of CYA

Any idea how much pure CYA (not dichlor) will lower pH? I have a 240 gallon tub. After a fresh fill, I will have a TA of 70 and pH of 7.6. I'd like to add 30 ppm of CYA since I'm using a salt water chlorine generator. I know it takes a day or two for the CYA to dissolve, but any idea how much of a pH drop I can expect?

Update...I just spoke to Dreammaker about this. They were quite helpful and are sending me a new topside for the Mach 7. Mach 7 does require a Balboa topside, so my current one is not compatible.

Thanks, I recently obtained a new topside under warranty, so I'll need a different one for the Mach 7?

So I have a blue control box in my 2010 Dreammaker that might be failing. My spa shuts off randomly and then often cycles on and off with the temp display flashing on and off as well with nonfunctioning buttons. Resetting the power works for an hour or so, but then it reverts back. I recently replaced the topside controller with a new one so doubt if that's the issue. Can anyone point me to a link where I could purchase a replacement board if need be? All I see advertised anywhere are the 2009 and earlier boxes (Mach 7) and I'm not sure that will work. I understand Dreammaker switched to a different board manufacturer in 2010. Or do any techs out there have any other ideas?

You should be ok with a TA of 60-80. That's what mine is at and I've never had any issues.

what leak issues?

If some of the buttons work but not others, then it is likely a topside controller issue. You can order a new one online (you'll need the controller and the matching overlay sticker). see here I had to replace mine recently. The jet button was working, but I could no longer adjust the temp. Mine was still under warranty though.

Mine maintains the chosen temp and filter cycle setting in memory even after the power goes out. Maybe the older control boxes don't though. Also, if you are concerned about nighttime noise, why not just reset the power at, say, 7 AM so that it filters at 7 AM and 7 PM? That way it won't be on at night except perhaps in the winter when longer heating periods are needed (even then it should be off by 10 or 11--depending on how cold your weather is). Also, I'm surprised that you find it loud. Are you sure the door panel is not vibrating?...might want to tighten the screws. My spa is located right outside my window and I can barely hear it. Do you have the Dreammaker steps that cover most of the panel access? That helps too to deflect the pump noise.

Thought I'd post another update. It's now been nearly 5 months since I switched to the Technichlor. I still haven't had to change my water, which remains extremely clear with no chlorine smell. I still keep the unit set at level 3 and put it into "boost mode" whenever I exit the spa. Other than that, I check the pH weekly and usually have to add a little acid to bring it down. I also add 5 ppm CYA monthly per chemgeek's recommendation. The process couldn't be simpler. One problem I did have is the SWCG unit was moving when my filter cycles came on (I have a one speed pump), and it's gyroscope would occasionally put it into boost mode, gradually driving up the chlorine level. I solved that by placing the unit in a glass bowl in the middle of the spa (easy to remove when I use the spa) so it can no longer move around the spa and make contact with the spa walls. This likely would not be a problem for anyone with a low speed circulation pump. I still highly recommend the product and won't post again unless I run into an issue.

I used Cleanwater Blue when I first started with my spa. The water was never entirely clear, and chemgeek convinced me with all of his research about the dangers of e.coli bacteria. I'm now on board with chlorine (SWCG) and love it. Don't waste your time and money with any copper products. I think so many people fear chlorine and bromine because they've heard that it's difficult, smelly, etc., but follow the advice on this forum and you'll see how easy-to-use, effective, and cheap an EPA-approved sanitizer really is compared to the "alternative" (unsafe) products.

I have nothing scientific to contribute, but from personal experience I believe that ozone contributes nothing and does increase chlorine demand. One of the first things I did when I added a salt water chlorine generator was to disconnect my ozonator, which is what I recommend that others do (to save energy if nothing else). It puzzles me that Hot Springs, to take one example, has an ozonator built into its spas using the ACE chlorine system. Waste of money IMO. It's all about marketing and making consumers feel like their water is pure even if they are to lazy to properly maintain the spa. It kind of reminds me of all of the antibacterial hand soap products when normal hand soap has worked fine for generations.

Yes, according to its web site the Technichlor manufacturer makes a couple of different in-line versions that are dealer installed.

To answer a question raised earlier, the Technichlor unit uses 2,000 ppm of salt. There is no smell except perhaps a slight whiff of chlorine when opening the cover. I can't speak to the effect on stainless steel. I would call your spa manufacturer and ask them. That's what I did to get the ok that it would not affect my warranty. I would really like to see more spas come standard with a SWCG rather than an ozonator. The cost is not much higher. It is such an easy sanitation method and could help a lot of novices avoid problems. My local Hot Springs dealer told me that they now include Technichlor with most of the spas they sell. Maybe it will catch on.

Thought I would update my experience with Technichlor now that it's been a couple of months. I have the Technichlor 220, which is actually a 110 volt unit. It cost me around $300. I have it connected to an extension cord in a dry spot under my house since my spa runs on a dedicated circuit and I needed a few more yards to reach another GFCI outlet (the unit is very low voltage). I have a 250 gallon Dreammaker spa. Previously, I've used CleanWater Blue (copper) and 3-step bromine for my sanitation. The bottom line is that I highly recommend this unit. It couldn't be simpler to set up and use, and the water quality is sparkling--much better than the other methods I have used. One "off label" step I did take based on recommendations here is to add 30 ppm of CYA stabalizer prior to use in order to help buffer the chlorine. Then I just added 6 cups of salt, balanced the water to a pH of 7.4 and alkalinity of 70, and plugged the unit in. I also disconnected my ozonator, since I do not believe it would add any benefits and would simply waste energy. The Technichlor unit has a setting ranging form 1-10 to regulate the amount of chlorine produced. I started with 4, but found that too high so eventually settled on 3. That has been perfect for over a month now based on my spa usage (approx. 1 person-hour every other day). It maintains a steady 3-5 ppm of chlorine. Cons? There are no buttons on the unit so you have to tap it to make any changes. Kind of annoying if it is dark and you can't see which way is up! Also, you need to let the unit know by tapping it after you have used the spa so that it will go into chlorine "boost mode" (3x normal chlorine production to oxidize bather waste). Finally, there is a bit of trial and error to determine the best chlorine setting based on your spa volume. I would recommend this unit to anyone looking for a simple way to keep the spa sanitized. Ongoing maintenance is the same as the dichlor then bleach method: simply check chemical balance once or twice weekly and clean the filters every two weeks. There has been no deterioration in water quality after 2 months, so I'm hopeful that I can go 5-6 months between refilling. The unit would be especially useful for anyone who goes on vacation for extended periods and wants a method to automatically add chlorine. An additional benefit is the salt water--it feels great on the skin and has greatly helped with dry skin issues I had when using bromine.

There is a similar reverse problem at work with the manufacturers of salt water chlorine generators. None of them to my knowledge mention the desirability of using CYA to buffer the chlorine. The manuals all just say "fill the spa, add salt, turn on the SWCG."