txpoolguy

Yes, these items are usually vaguealy shaped with dirt, then the rebar, then the gunite sprayed over that & shaped to the desired specifications. If you feel that this was not done, call your pool builder immediately & do not let any further work take place until your question is answered to your satisfaction. It can still be done without the soil underneath, but it will be all concrete & someone has to pay for that. Make sure it's not you. Give them the opportunity to resolve it before getting too upset, though. Most builders are very conscientious & do want to do it right. I'm sure they will make it right.

How old is your pool? While it's possible that the part you need may be obsolete, there are lots of replacements available & it's unlikely that there is no fix.

Since all residential swimming pool heaters generally operate the same way, they will all have the same requirements for disconnecting thru winter. You will need some way of draining the heater completely, or the water that puddles in the copper tubes becomes acidic & causes damage. Hayward, Raypak, Jandy, Lochinvar... All are the same in this respect for winter storage. You can blow out the tubes on all these models as suggested above. They all have drain plugs, but these don't guarantee 100% drainage, it's mainly for short-term draining. Since the Hayward heaters now come with "Cupro-Nickle" tubes as standard, they are more resistant to chemical damage. You can purchase the Cupro-Nickle for other heaters, but it's several hundred dollars extra.

It sounds as though the mesh cover is working as it should. The mesh fabric lies on the surface of the water, and water will pass thru as it rains, but you will see water on the top of the cover, since it's lying on the water for support and a small amount of water will seep thru from below. The water bags are mainly to keep it from blowing away & the water surface supports the weight of the mesh & debris accumulation. Since you're not winterizing the pool, just catching leaves, this is okay. If you drain the water down, as is typical for winterizing, the water bags would not be strong enough to support the weight of the cover and debris. In this case, you would need the straps mentioned earlier. This kind of installation is very typical in southern regions, where we don't close & winterize pools, but some do get covered to catch leaf drop.

First off, based on your description, a bigger pump and new hoses for the Kreepy will not likely fix your problem. It sounds to me as though you have one of the following: 1. A vacuum leak on the suction side of your pump - most likely above ground. Replace the pump lid gasket first. 2. The Kreepy may have picked up some debris that is now lodged in one of your pipes, causing a restriction to flow. 3. Debris may be lodged in the impeller of your pump. Since the filter is on the pressure side of the pump, it's not likely part of the problem, although it may have made the problem more visible, since cleaning the filter allows the water to flow more easily. The bubbles coming into the pool, air in the pump lid, and lower pressure on the filter, all would be consistent with one of these problems. Cleaning the filter may be coincidental. The pressure rise during solar operation sounds normal, as the pump is pushing water thru the solar fixture - increased resistance to flow. All of these issues can be difficult to locate & correct. I'd recommend a very experienced technician to diagnose. The guy who was already there didn't know what he was looking at and was trying to upsell you - typical for the home warranty companies that I've dealt with.

It appears that the "fastlane" that you refer to is commonly known as a swim-jet, so you can swim against the flow of water & not just back & forth in the pool. Most reputable builders will be able to accommodate you on this feature, although it may not be the same name-brand that you mention. I'm not from Houston, but I know the reputation of Platinum Pools in North Texas. They'll take care of you.

Your installer would be better qualified to answer this since they are more familiar with the specifics of your site. However, I think about 6-7' is the minimum witdth for a bobcat type machine. There may be extra charges related to this, depending on how much shuttling back & forth is required due to space constraints. Also make sure that you have your neighbor sign an agreement before they begin. There will be times that there property gets "touched", no matter how careful the excavators are.

The Goldine ProLogic PS-4 would likely fill your needs nicely. You can see it at www.goldlinecontrol.com or www.haywardnet.com. Wireless remotes are the best in the industry, actuators are available for your two valves, transformer and heater controls are built in. It has 4 high voltage relays for the two pumps and two other 120/240 devices such as lights, etc. Installing yourself can be risky unless you're very familiar with the product & installation. If you attempt it on your own, be aware that incorrect installation will void the warranty and repairs to electronics can get far more expensive than the cost of having a professional do the install for you.

Price is relative. If the return on investment is worth it to the purchaser. I see many Lexus autos on the road when a Chevy would get you there & back just as well. In many industries, a more expensive dealer supports the product far better than a less expensive dealer. There are far too many stories in this forum of "inexpensive/cheap" installations that have become nightmares because of poor dealer support. If price is the only factor, buyer beware!

While I agree that the plastic diverter valves would be better, to answer your question, bronze is better than brass.

While I don't think I've ever seen any comparisons between brands, the following suggestions might make a difference, although I don't think it will be a significant difference... Color - not sure that it makes a huge difference, but darker colors do tend to absorb more sunlight or radiant energy than lighter colors. Bubbles - Larger bubbles may insulate better than smaller bubbles, but again, I don't think there's a big difference in the size of bubbles on the different brands of cover. Thicker material will likely insulate better than thinner, and will also be more durable.

Beelzy, If the assembly included the spring assy from the factory, it should be used. People get hurt when they start tampering with the design of pressure vessels. If the part weren't needed, the mfg wouldn't spend the money to include it. I understand that it's costly sometimes to repair/replace something correctly, but someone's life isn't worth 150 bucks. IMHO, we have an obligation to err on the side of safety in cases like this. You could probably get by with only 3 lugnuts on your wife's car, but I'll bet you keep all 5 very tight.

difficult to say from the info supplied. You can call Goldline direct on Monday morning & they can walk you thru a few steps to diagnose. Their phone number is on the label inside the door of the AquaRite.

There are several products available at your local pool store, but they are sold in smaller quantities. I'd recommend checking with a local Tile supply store & ask what they recommend. Take a sample of your tile if you have some, so they can see what kind of tile you have. There are cleaning agents sold in 5-gallon quantities that could be used. Many will require lots of ventilation & possibly breathing protection, since you are indoors.

There should be no noticeable difference in the water loss thru the shell during winter and summer. Since you're not running the pool now, you might let the water level drop (as long as it's safe to do so) and see where it stops. Usually, it will stop at the point of the leak, then you can look at the perimeter of the pool & see what items (returns, lights, etc.) are at that level. If you have a leak thru the shell, it should be the same winter and summer.

If you use the included flow gauge & keep it in the vacuum range that the owner's manual suggests, you'll have very good success & long life. Just like anything else, use it in a manner it's not intended and you'll shorten the lifespan. Glad you like it!

Many would recommend replacing the whole pump, as well as your filter. The Anthony system you have was a good system in it's time, but efficiency and ease of operation have increased quite a bit in the past 3 decades. Newer pumps are far more efficient than the one you have and newer filters have increased efficiency and are easier to clean/backwash. I'd recommend eliminating all copper plumbing at the same time, as the copper is prone to staining. Proobable that you have bluish staining, or did before a resurface. Yes, it costs more, but it's a good investment, considering the better technology available today. You can probably even go down to a 1hp or 1.5 hp and not lose any performance in your pool/spa.

ae5y

The Navigator inground pool cleaner by Hayward won't get stuck. It has a program built into it that keeps it turning most of the time. It also reverses it's turns every few minutes, so it approaches steps & benches from both directions so as to get all the areas that Kreepy & Cuda miss. It's not affected by the return jets, won't get stuck on main drain covers, etc. It's a great cleaner. I have one in my pool and highly recommend it. You won't have to buy a new one every couple years, either. All the parts are replaceable, and if you replace the wear parts when needed, it prevents wear to the underbody. I've seen 12 year old Navigators still running great, with moderate repairs occasionally. Oh, and by the way, with the Navigator you will never hear the "thump, thump, thump" again. Navi is silent.

If you stay with the Hayward Universal H-Series, you'll be satisfied. All heater mfgrs make a variety of models, some more, some less efficient, based on design. Stay away from a millivolt heater, which requires a standing pilot light. The newer technology is more efficient and more reliable than the older technology. Based on my personal experience, the Hayward UHS is a very good choice.

Try to stick with a brand that has been around long-time, such as the Goldline AquaTrol mentioned above. It may be a bit more, but you'll have long-term support, as opposed to whatever name Costco is getting from China this week. AquaTrol has been around a long time & is proven technology. Goldline didn't invent the saltwater chlorine generator, but they did perfect it, now everyone else is copying them.

It's likely that you have an accumulation of "scale" inside the heater well or heat exchanger, depending on which model you have. It results in low water flow thru the heater, which overheats the water, turning it to steam, which is the noise you hear. You'll need to have a qualified heater technician come check it out & see if it's repairable (cleanable) or not. This is usually a result of elements in the water which collect on the inside of the heater well/exchanger as they become less soluble in water when heat is applied. Calcium is one of the most common elements that does this. Get your water checked as well, specifically the calcium and if they can, have them check your saturation index to see where your water stands. The heater manufacturer may be able to offer assistance, even though your dealer has failed.

What kind of thread did he use to sew the bag? LOL

I'm not familiar with that pump model, but if you can find a mfg. name on the pump, you can contact them for an owner's manual & tech specs for the pump.

Beautiful! Now, when's the party and what should we bring? The filter drain plug should have an o-ring gasket on it, might just need tightened a little. Make sure to wipe dirt off it before reinstalling, as well as the sealing surfaces on the plug and the filter tank. Add a bit of lubricant & it should seal up without much problem.