Pool Clown

Once in a while I run into this scenario. There is a leak in the suction line, usually the connection to the skimmer. When running normally there is no problem. When there is a extra load on the suction line, ie connecting vac hose or otherwise, the increased vac pulls air through the crack and kills prime. This is how you can have a leak in a pipe yet not loose water. If you have a skimmer that is a light color, white, biege, or light green and the bottom of the skimmer is black, You are a possible candidate for a new skimmer. See if your pool guy can, or will pressure test the suction line. Good Luck

Try cleaning the filter really well (maybe even replace the element)or move the valve more towards the jets than neutral. This may increase the flow to a point where the jets will work with the solar on.

My head is spinning... Probably the best thing to do is to experiment with it. Try different combos and see what works best for you.

Looks like you have discovered a feature that was previously squelched by a low flow pump. Enjoy your new water feature!

Yes it will make more chlorine than what you would need. If you have a spare relay, you can hook up the chlor to it, then just create a program that runs only when the filter runs (same program as the filter). That way when you hit the spa button then you get no power to the chlor unit. If your worried about rouge programs turning it on w/o the pump, make that relays line come from the filter pumps load side.

Do you have to goto the equipment area when changing from pool to spa? Or do you have automation that you use to move the valves? If you go to the equip to change, What I did was put a single gang box with a light type switch in line of the power conduit and when I switch the valves, I flip the switch on the box and turn off the Chlorinator. If you have automation, some units will turn it off for you when switched to spa mode.

Harsh? Me? please. Just trying to emphasize the fact that marks like that can, in some cases, make priming difficult. Of the ones that I can't get by hand, Pool tool makes a tool that grabs the impeller buy a vane. Don't remember how much it was, But if I have one, they must be inexpensive.

This actually didn't leak for a couple of months. Tech involved has got no a$$ left.

If you have changed the motor once before then you are a vet. Probably will be easier to do motor,seal, and o-ring. only DON'T grab the impeller with a pair of channel locks! Motor only should be a bit less that a new pump too.

Are you sure it went out ? Or did you unknowingly turn it off? Is it an all button? Kind of rectangle? Or is it a one touch, more like a square?

In my area, SF bay area, We have to drain pools to the sewer.

If you hook up a garden hose to the backwash line, It will create such a restriction that you will not get the flow required to "knock" the DE off the filter grids. Best bet is to keep the same size as the outlet. Re: previous post, If you have a sand filter everything is the same except you won't get DE Filter powder.

Aside from what the city/ county might have to say about you pumping Grey liquid from your property. What comes out of that line would be: D. E., Filter powder. If it is true earth, then its ground up clam shells. It used to be natural, now it's hazmat. I think it's because the dust it creates when dry. Hair, oils, and any other sort of DNA. Bugs, dust, pollen, twigs, pine needles, you get the picture. And whatever chemicals the water is holding. Is it O.K.? This is what I would do. let the Cl level drop to a point where the level is about the same as your tap water. Put A length of backwash hose on the pipe coming out of the filter. Back wash and water your plants. The water has no chlorine in it and the d.e. is good for the soil. Bring the Cl back up. Note: If you have a Chlorine Generator, forget everything you just read as salt water can be disruptive to a garden.

I would like to see what the amperage draw and gfi rating is at about 2 hours 50 min. If you happen to be using a gfi that is the outlet/ push button reset type, those buggers can be flaky. But I guess thats why they cost about a 1/3 of breaker type gfi's

Try a big pair of channel locks, gently, remember, it's plastic! Your trying to get a turning force, not a squeezing force. If you can't get it with that, then a pipe wrench will work. A pipe wrench (if used correctly) won't squeeze the fitting, it'll just turn it. Good luck

I screwed with it some more and I have the threaded kind.

Which type do I have?

It is an observation well. Around here, it is used to pump water out from underneath the structure. What you have done (with the pump) is correct. It is important to keep well pumped out if you have the pool drained (for repairs), So it don't pop!

If you have valve actuators, One could be misaligned or have stopped working. Put the system into spa mode while you are at the equipment and see if both valve actuators are moving to the spa position. Do you have an in floor cleaning system that is also in the spa? That system will have a check valve in addition to the one you replaced.

New wiring harness(s)...

My bad, I didn't mean gfi w/outlet so you could plug the spa back in. I meant just like you did only gfi outlet instead of switch. box would be the same size. Oh well, as long as it works for you.

How about this, Instead of a w/t switch, Make it a w/t gfi outlet? You'll be doing everything everyone want's you to do. And you will have an outlet. Your disconnect is the test button on the gfi.

Ok, just found your controller. NOT what I thought. Sorry, but I may not be much help. Although It may still be a fried/shorted relay, In which case a main board. http://spapartsnet.com/Circuit-Boards/3-60-0119_950_1_1.html (Not a sales push, just a site that showed me a pic of the board)

I'm not sure I know what type of controller you have. The LX in LX-15 referrers to a compool unit, but I'm beginning to think it's not. Could you take a pic of the power to the controller? The one i'm referring to looks similar to this. Probably without so many relays. The x former hookup is the blue at the top. You can post pics thru Photobucket.com

You may have a relay that has shorted. Does the breaker that feeds the controller feed the filter pump too?