Jump to content

PoolGuyNJ

Members
  • Posts

    766
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by PoolGuyNJ

  1. A standard Merlin mesh will let light in. Once the water is 60 or higher, algae grows.

    Chlorine disappates.

    Algaecide 60 is what you should be using, not 40 or 50.

    Don't use dichlor. Use either 6% bleach or 12% chlorinating liquid. Powders have dissolving issues with colder waters.

    Adding liquid chlorine and Algaecide 60, ever couple weeks, starting in the beginning of April, will generally reduce or eliminate the algae bloom untreated pools get with this cover and most other brands of mesh.

    When the pool is opened, if it's green, shock it hard enough to kill the algae over night. Vacuum to waste the next day, once the algae has loosened it's grip on the walls and floor. Don't try to be perfect. Move fairly quickly as the water level, because you are in Waste mode, will drop quickly. Have the hose to the pool going too. You can pretty it up later in Filter mode.

    Scott

  2. The water level appears ok and the spa wall is designed to be 1/2 way up the pool tile.

    Unfortunately, this is an A&A floor cleaner and the distribution unit's (i.e the transmission) gears are built in to the top half of it. They can't be removed like on a Paramount brand.

    All that can be done, as far as I know is top open the other valves on the return side to relieve water pressure on the A&A tranny, preventing the floors from getting enough water to pop up.

    When in spa mode, a very small amount of cooler water from the pool will get in but it should not be enough to cause the spa to totally cool by any stretch unless the heater is way under powered. How many watts is that heater?

    Scott

  3. I would not unless I knew the bulbs we the same size and specs.

    The lens and gasket can likely be ordered at any authorized Jandy dealer or most pool stores. It may take some time as the lens and clamp that hold it are not frequently ordered and so, there isn't a big supply in the distribution channel.

    Scott

  4. Every pool is different. Without seeing it via a picture or a better description, I can't tell.

    IIRC, pics can be added to a post by copying the link of the 4th option of a picture that is in a Photobucket album (its free). Hovering over the picture will reveal 4 code options, click on the 4th and it is now in your clip board. To paste it in a response, hit Control and V. One pic per line please!

    Scott

  5. Leak One - Is your spa raised? If so, is there a check valve between the return side valve and spa return line? It's leaking.

    Leak Two: Could be anything in the pool. Frequent culprits are the light niche conduit, the junction between the shell and the skimmers, the junction at the drain pot drain pot, the junction at the returns, or, since the water is too high, it's meeting the bottom of the concrete extension collar, a plastic ring that makes a skimmer stand taller, in the skimmer.

    I don't think it's a line issue.

    Scott

  6. A set of seals would not be a bad idea to try. Usually though, when they leak, it's visible at the bottom.

    Did you recently have the motor replaced?

    Seal plates, when cracked, can hide the crack. I have seen this before. I would order a new gasket too. They are cheap enough and brings peace of mind.

    So, Seal plate, seal set, and gasket.

    Scott

×
×
  • Create New...