PoolGuyNJ
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Posts posted by PoolGuyNJ
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While copper will kill algae, it can also create other bad issues that lead me to say simply, metals in pools are never a good thing to have.
Single quat algaecides are not your real friend. Algaecides generally help prevent algae but if algae can form, other. more dangerous bio-baddies can too. The best way to prevent algae is having the proper amount of residual sanitizer in the water already. In the vast majority of pools, that is chlorine. Kill the bio-baddy quick and it can't reproduce.
While algae may be the most visible, it isn't the most harmful. There are lots of different pathogens such as bacteria, viruses, parasites, and so on that algaecides do nothing for.
Chlorine also oxidizes or renders things like urea, sweat, and tanning lotions inert.
Scott
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The hole without suction is likely the bottom drain.
Plugging the Navigator into the hole with suction is usually enough.
Navigators create a significant impediment to the flow of water. Such resistance is showing itself in the 10 psi to 3 psi drop. Less water is flowing and so, less pressure is in the filter.
If the pool pump is below the waterline of the pool, that would explain why the valve in front of the pump is there. That condition is also known as a flooded suction. If the valve was open and you removed the pump lid, water from the pool would come out of the pump. Close the valve and the water stops.
Scott
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You're doing fine. Keep control. They want to sell what they want you to buy. The competitiveness, as evident by the smack talking against the other fella, surprises me. There are many who don't understands sales apparently. Eventually, you find that professional. Until then, keep saving the money.
Scott
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IMHO, all shells should have a sump and or a drywell below the shell to pull out water as it makes emptying the pool safer. Water tables can change when least expected and don't usually give you advanced notice either. Less money up front can cost later. This is one of those situations.
Scott
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I would think the automation system has been set to only heat the spa.
Scott
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Savi is the company. Nexus is the model. There should be no digging needed. There should be a flex conduit from where the light is to above the water line, normally near the power supply.
Its been a while but if I recall correctly, they are LED based and not repairable but are replaceable. I also seem to recall that they had a heat issue and have since been remodeled so don't expect the new one to look exactly like the old.
Scott
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"The company that finished the pool 'as a favor' is indicating they are not responsible for the mess made by the initial pool company and are unwilling to provide any help."
I assume they meant for free rather than at all. Of course you wouldn't hold them responsible for another's mess.
Was the new builder better than the old? What were your expectations and how did they differ from what was sold?
Scott
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Ahhh. BTW, while not white, Hayward pump plugs work too.
Scott
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The gas meter can only put out 225 cubic feet and the heater needs close to 400. It may take a bit to get the pressure to drop below, but it will. Add an appliance to the mix and things get worse, as you can imagine.
Scott
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Too late to tell what caused it as this has been partly cut open already to remove the cracks and loose material. I think the wall and steel are toast. Cut it, epoxy new rebar, reform it and shoot a new wall.
Then you might get away with patching the coping. A plastering in also called for.
Scott
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That would require an over the deck install and a 380 is a sweep, not a robot.
An Aquabot will do nicely.
Scott
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Hayward doesn't use Praher valves.
If a pump plug fits, it's 1/4" NPT and a 9/16" socket will fit it.
If a Polaris booster's pipe plug fits, its 1/8" NPT and a 3/8" socket will fit on it. Neither will cost more than a dollar.
Scott
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I saw that but it only answers the next set of questions I was going to ask. Have to go step by step.
Scott
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Since the CYA level is 0, the chlorine will dissipate fairly quickly. you shouldn't need more than 3 ppm overnight but during the day, that level needs to be maintained so someone will need to add bleach to maintain that level. The cloudiness is due to a lack of chlorine and a new algae bloom wants to get underway.
More chlorine that suggested at that CYA level is discouraged as much as adding any metal except grounded zinc for controlling electrolysis.
Scott
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Describe the line diameters and lengths from the meter to the heater.
How many cubic feet can your gas meter supply?
Have you checked the orifices of the gas manifold that feeds the burners?
Scott
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Sounds like you might have let the seal wait too long and water deteriorated the insulation of the motor's coils, causing them to short out and trip the breaker.
There isn't usually a big difference in price between the motor and a new pump.
Scott
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The plastic can be any water resistant plastic that flexes to fit over the hole. The perimeter is where the plastic would meet the niche. The epoxy will fill any small gaps.
Scott
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Good point. I was thinking of a Jandy LX for some reason.
What is the resistance of the igniter as measured at the wires from it when disconnected from the ignition control module?
Scott
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WRT the bulb, if they match, try one. If it strikes an arc and lights, great! Do it before you put the lens and new gasket are put on. Don't leave it on more than 30 seconds either. Let it cool and repeat two more times. Three times is a pattern.
Scott
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Most skimmers have two ports and one is usually plugged with a PVC plug that has a square indentation in the middle. This second port can go to nothing and be plugged (normal), opened and go to the drain and have an additional covering device that allows either the drain or skimmer to be shut off but is not water tight and so the pool must let water in the skimmer to keep it flooded, or may be a different size, say one is 1.5" and the other is 2".
Most techs will use a threaded pipe plug with an o-ring or a winter plug when a leak in the drain tied skimmer is found. The plugs with squares are factory generally and not for use by the field generally. This keeps them from being confused and would be considered bad practice but not unheard of.
Scott
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Bypassing the pressure switch is ONLY done during the troubleshooting phase. It is part of the SAFETY CIRCUIT. Never run a pool heater of any type without the pressure switch active at any other time. To do so can result in a warped heat exchanger, lots of leaks, and a large bill for either repairs of replacement of the heater.
If the pump was on and leads to the pressure switch were removed, touching the leads with ohm meter should give 0 ohms and a beep. If touching the switch's connections doesn't beep with the pump on, the switch is either bad or there isn't enough pressure in the heat exchanger to make the switch, a potentially more serious problem, possibly corrosion or the internal by-pass is stuck open.
Twelve years is pretty long for a pool heater. Don't dump much money into it. It doesn't have much of a dollar value left.
Scott
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If the copper isn't leaking near the skimmer, I would likely just solder a copper male adapter on the end I cut after the skimmer, wrap it with Teflon tape a few times and put a female adapter of PVC on the male adapter. It is much more secure than a compression fitting. I might even spray paint the copper with Rustoleum after I made sure there were no leaks and before burial.
If the copper is leaking inside the encased section, the skimmer has to go. You can't get at the pipe without damaging the skimmer. Expect the concrete to have steel rebar in it too. If this is the situation, you will likely want a pro to replace it.
Scott
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It usually works but sometimes the hose will hang out at the surface and create friction with the cover, especially if there is a small air leak and it's near the shallow end of the pool.
Scott
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Sounds like a corrosion issue in the tube. The water comes from the manifold's return side, IIRC. IT will need either reaming or replacing. Check the pool water for copper too.
Scott
Need Help Identifying Valves
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
With the pump above the water line, that valve is pretty useless.
In the skimmer, are there two screw holes, diagonal to each other? If so, then a special valve goes over both main holes and gets screwed down. In the valve body is a butterfly valve and on top, one hole that can be covered. This allows water from the drain to be pulled into the line that has suction while minimizing (but not eliminating) skimmer draw.
While there are two open ports in the skimmer of which one we know goes to the pump and the other we suspect goes to the drain, the one for the drain offers far more resistance that the water coming in from the skimmer and thus, next to no suction from the drain is felt.