PoolGuyNJ
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Posts posted by PoolGuyNJ
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That is something you have to ask Jandy. I would not attempt the mod.
Scott
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I have never oiled a switch.
Higher pressure settings are used for flooded suction environments. If you have a large enough pump, say 1.5 HP and up, it should produce enough flow. Most switches have a knurled dial that would allow you to reduce the pressure it's looking for.so if you have a small pump or variable speed, they can be turned down some. Just make sure you have enough water flow through the heat exchanger.
Scott
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See the sticky at the top of the In-Ground section.
Scott
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If you know you are testing the voltages correctly, then the Fenwal is sinking the voltage with an internal short.
To test, find another 28V source and feed that to the regulator. If it click on and fires, its the Fenwal.
Scott
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What are the latest chem readings? Strips often lie. Pool stores want to sell you stuff, often not what is needed.
Scott
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I would expect two totally different layouts on the board. One with the wireless and one with a line driver output circuitry.
Scott
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Please see the response I made in this link:
http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=37018
Scott
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The picture doesn't show it as well as if we saw it in person. If it is more yellow than green, it is mustard algae (M-A).
Brown is usually dirt, not algae. Black is usually a mold called black algae (B-A). It is also very hardy. It may even require brushing with a stainless brush to knock the heads of it off so the chlorine can get at the roots. The roots can dig into the pores of the surface. The cure is the same for M-A.
M-A plays hide and seek and tends to be hardier than green algae, thus a recurring problem. Pull the ladder and light fixture. Scrub all surfaces, even the light niche the fixture fits in while the chlorine level is about 80% of the stabilizer (CYA) level using liquid chlorine (no dissolving needed) or cal-hypo (a type of granular but needs pre-dissolving).
Hold this level for at least a night. Its likely you will need to add chlorine a couple times to maintain the level.
Use the waste setting (move quickly as you'll lose water) to vacuum so as not to contaminate the filter media.
Let the pool lose the high level naturally when done and set the timer back to run at least 8 hours a day after the chlorine drops to normal levels. Re-install the ladder and the light fixture and cord after scrubbing.
Scott
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How big is the gas line from the meter? How much 3/4" pipe is used at the heater? How big is the meter? I am assuming you are using natural gas.
Scott
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With 180,000 liters, I find it unlikely that you are getting at least a full turn in 4 hours. Running it for at least 8 hours a day, during the peak day light hours is usually enough for most systems. Lower powered pumps may require 10 or 12 hour cycles. Running continuously during shocking and clean up is also required.
Scott
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Since the tracks are metal and the walls likely are too, it must be bonded.
Scott
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Super chlorinate to 30 ppm and hold it there until the overnight Free chlorine loss (OCLT) holds to within .5 ppm. Pull the ladders and light fixtures too. No swimming until the OCLT is passed. Scrub the ladders and light fixtures. When the OCLT is passed, either allow the FC to drop naturally to 4 or 5 ppm. Your FC has been too low. It needs to be 8% to 10% of the CYA's value or else the FC doesn't have the killing power you need.
Floc before vacuuming and backwashing and only to clear a clouded pool. It should not be needed. I would also suggest vacuuming to waste any dead algae so as not to contaminate the filter media.
Scott
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Is the groove the gasket sits in clean and unbroken?
Is the lid's sealing edge clean?
Has the pump overheated? The suction side plumbing directly in front of the pump is susceptible to warping and or shrinking.
Was the motor changed recently? If the seal set wasn't changed, air can get in too.
Scott
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There are different Badu jets available. Both are driven by large, 5 or 6 HP, I forget, motors, 6" suction and 4" returns. If you live in an area where winterization is a must and they are installed when the pool can be lowered, they have a specific model than can be sealed.
These jets produce a lot of thrust so backside support is needed so the jets don't cause the wall they are attached to flex and leak.
Circulation is handled with a separate pump system.
Scott
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I would also submit that resin walls tend to do better in wet environments than steel walls.
Scott
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What is the pool made of, concrete or fiberglass?
Scott
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PH Up is also known as Dense Ash or Sodium Carbonate. Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda is exactly the same stuff. When mixed with water, it raises both the pH and the alkalinity (buffer). It is not normally broadcast over a pool's surface but rather should slowly be added to a skimmer that has had it's amount of suction somewhat increased.
The "Buffer" is baking soda or "bicarb". This can be broadcast across the surface of the pool. Any cloudiness is typically very short lived.
Use the pool calculator, www.poolcalculater.com , to determine your dosing needs.
Retest the water using a suitable kit that can tell you your current alk, pH, FC,CC or TC up to 50 ppm undiluted, calcium hardness if you've a plastered pool, and CYA levels. A Taylor K-2006 series kit, among others, will give you all that. No one will test your water as well as you and yes, you are able to. Strips don't work well. Something goes awry every time.
Without a full set of accurate test results, we can't tell why you went cloudy, just hazard a guess or two. There are only about 1000 reasons pools go cloudy.
Scott
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No composite wall will rust but the attaching hardware has the potential. Not likely to rot out for 50 years though.
As for Pentair vs Hayward, Pentair wins in quality and engineering and Hayward wins on up front price. I use Pentair gear when whole goods are needed.
Scott
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The use of polymer/resin wall panels would lead me to think that the soil may be somewhat acidic.
Scott
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I would expect finding the right rib and plugging it near the top and bottom would lead to the wrong rib being plugged potentially.
Scott
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This has Sticky written all over it!
Scott
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Sounds like a dirty filter. You didn't say what equipment you have.
Scott
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Children over 14. Barring that, The Pool Cleaner two wheeled version works well.
Scott
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Complicated Below Grade Plumbing Setup/upgrade
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
How big is the pump?
How high is the solar array?
Isn't there a vacuum breaker at the top of the solar array so when the pump is off, the panels drain into the pool?
Back to back pumps are not recommended. Unless the impeller is spinning, there would be a lot of head introduced.
Schedule 40 pipe, as long as it's pressure rated, should be fine.
Scott