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PoolGuyNJ

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Posts posted by PoolGuyNJ

  1. That is rebar exposure near the surface. It will need to have the plaster removed and possibly some of the cement around it. Then it needs to be sealed and and patched. To not do it this way will only result in it's increasingly rapid return. A 4-1/2" grinder with a diamond wheel works well to expose it and Thoroghseal waterproofs it. Plaster patch material is like quick setting hydaulic cement.

    Scott

  2. Bleach. Clorox is 6% and chlorinating liquid is 10 to 12%. The rest is salt water. Very benign to a pool.

    Trichlor tabs all have CYA. Some brands add copper sulphate as an algaecide but can cause green staining.

    Dichlor powder has even more.

    Cal-Hypo adds calcium, a scale producer if you don't watch your chems. This would yield similar needed actions to excessive CYA in that the only way to get rid of it is via dilution or a reverse osmosis service.

    Scott

  3. If the skimmers aren't cracked (yet), use a hole saw on the surface to remove a circle of ice. Then with a keyhole saw, make some pie slices. That may save the skimmers.

    Break up the ice in front of the skimmers. Get the pump going and turn on the heater. Don't let the ice get too thick.

    If you have water line tile, break up the ice around the perimeter.

    I am assuming the plumbing exposed to air is above freezing. I doubt the water has frozen in the pipes below ground yet.

    Scott

  4. There are lots of newer finishes. The longer lasting finish contains a higher aggregate amount. What that mean is some of the marble dust, a relatively soft mineral, used in plain plaster is replaced with something more durable, like quartz and colored quartz. The biggest name is SGM's Diamond Brite. The quartz, being much harder, makes it last a few years more than plain plaster (or colored plaster for that matter). But because it still contain marble dust, it wears out.

    At the top of the heap in terms of durable surfaces, Pebble Technologies and Wet Edge use small pebbles and entirely replace the marble dust as an aggregate. This leaves only cement to bind things but also leaves a textured surface. The coarsest of the textures is like the basketball's surface. Both brands I mentioned also have mixes that use smaller stones so the texture is smoother. The rocks used are all very hard and I have yet to see one of these finishes wear out.

    When you go to bid, the salesmen that come should have samples to show you.

    Scott

  5. Not a lot you really can do without removing the decking. In order to straighten the walls, the deck would have to go, the old back fill removed, pressure to the inside of the pool walls applied if the bowing doesn't go away when the old back fill is removed.

    Then a proper back fill pool fill process is needed and new decking poured.

    Your only other option is to live with the bowing walls and get water in there post haste.

    Scott

  6. The two 115V lines are 180 degrees out of phase. Between the two, you would see 230V.

    You will need a new circuit breaker and timer or a 230V pump.

    If you're asking at this stage, it seems to me that you are not likely to be qualified to safely do the change and should seek the help of a more qualified technician.

    Scott

  7. How about just keeping the pool properly balanced and not buying an expensive gadget of iffy benefits. The only pipes in a pool that I have ever seen get calcium scale are heat exchangers and that is a once every 3-4 year occurrence by me. I'll bet the "device" costs as much as a new heat exchanger too.

    Scott

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