Dan.The.Spa.Man

What year is it, 2001? The adding water has nothing to do with it, just coincidence. If you have a multimeter you can check the heater for resistance and can check the heater relay for voltage. Yes Dan the tub is a 2001 and I do have a volt meter. Where am I checking for resistance and do I do that with the power off? Where do I check the heater relay for voltage? Thanks Steve Turn power off. Pull the heater leads off from the board. Put the meter leads into the white and black heater ends and see if you get 9.8 ohms or so. If it reads "open line" then the heater is bad. To test for voltage at the relay, turn power to the tub back on and put the meter leads on the terminals that the heater's black and white wires were connected to. Should get 110 or 220 volts depending on how you have it set up. As far as the leak goes, do you have a black or white air intake valve in the upper right hand corner of the motor compartment? It has (2) 3/4" lines and (1) 1/8" line coming out of it. If so you need to replace this with a new part called a Hartford Loop. Dan the Spa Man, I tested the heater and it tested ok at about 9.4 ohms. I turned the power back on and tested the power at the relay and only got about 4 VAC. I noticed the connector on the white wire has a blackish tint to the clear like something burnt but the wire and connector are good. I am assuming the black square pieces on the circuit board are the relays? One of the relays looks like it may be burnt up, like something melted between the relay and circuit board. So assuming this is just a failure due to age, what do I replace? Can I unsolder the relay and put a new one in or do you usually just replace the whole circuit board? Where is the best place to get the replacement parts I will need? Thanks Steve Normally you just replace the whole board...the new ones are better. I sent you a PM. Finally got the tub back up and running. Thank you Dan the Spa Man! Glad to hear...go enjoy it!

What year is it, 2001? The adding water has nothing to do with it, just coincidence. If you have a multimeter you can check the heater for resistance and can check the heater relay for voltage. Yes Dan the tub is a 2001 and I do have a volt meter. Where am I checking for resistance and do I do that with the power off? Where do I check the heater relay for voltage? Thanks Steve Turn power off. Pull the heater leads off from the board. Put the meter leads into the white and black heater ends and see if you get 9.8 ohms or so. If it reads "open line" then the heater is bad. To test for voltage at the relay, turn power to the tub back on and put the meter leads on the terminals that the heater's black and white wires were connected to. Should get 110 or 220 volts depending on how you have it set up. As far as the leak goes, do you have a black or white air intake valve in the upper right hand corner of the motor compartment? It has (2) 3/4" lines and (1) 1/8" line coming out of it. If so you need to replace this with a new part called a Hartford Loop. Dan the Spa Man, I tested the heater and it tested ok at about 9.4 ohms. I turned the power back on and tested the power at the relay and only got about 4 VAC. I noticed the connector on the white wire has a blackish tint to the clear like something burnt but the wire and connector are good. I am assuming the black square pieces on the circuit board are the relays? One of the relays looks like it may be burnt up, like something melted between the relay and circuit board. So assuming this is just a failure due to age, what do I replace? Can I unsolder the relay and put a new one in or do you usually just replace the whole circuit board? Where is the best place to get the replacement parts I will need? Thanks Steve Normally you just replace the whole board...the new ones are better. I sent you a PM.

What year is it, 2001? The adding water has nothing to do with it, just coincidence. If you have a multimeter you can check the heater for resistance and can check the heater relay for voltage. Yes Dan the tub is a 2001 and I do have a volt meter. Where am I checking for resistance and do I do that with the power off? Where do I check the heater relay for voltage? Thanks Steve Turn power off. Pull the heater leads off from the board. Put the meter leads into the white and black heater ends and see if you get 9.8 ohms or so. If it reads "open line" then the heater is bad. To test for voltage at the relay, turn power to the tub back on and put the meter leads on the terminals that the heater's black and white wires were connected to. Should get 110 or 220 volts depending on how you have it set up. As far as the leak goes, do you have a black or white air intake valve in the upper right hand corner of the motor compartment? It has (2) 3/4" lines and (1) 1/8" line coming out of it. If so you need to replace this with a new part called a Hartford Loop.

As other people have stated i think 2-3 grand off for a showroom model sounds like a great deal to me. From what you are saying you sound like you want the spa below cost price and the dealer should be grateful for that. I have had a couple of people come in my store and they are expecting the same thing that i will give a spa away because of the current "economic climate". We are well up on 2008 sales at my store and there are still plenty of people out there prepared to pay for a quality product and service. There are two types of customer those who are willing to pay for luxury items and those who want the luxury items but wont pay for them. I think if you want to buy a decent spa you need to pay the going rate or if not go to costco and get a inferior budget spa. Good post...guess we have had similar experiences and posted them at the same time!

Very true, but people's definition of a "great deal" may be the problem. I had a woman come into the store demanding that we sell and install an 18X33 above ground pool and she wasn't going to spend more than $3500. She was actually yelling at me about prices and the economy. It was quite comical to be honest. Call me crazy but the strategy of selling and installing a pool for less than I actualy pay for the materials is not going to keep the business open for very long.

What year is it, 2001? The adding water has nothing to do with it, just coincidence. If you have a multimeter you can check the heater for resistance and can check the heater relay for voltage.

It's different everywhere and dealers are in completely different situations depending on tons of different factors......my '08s were gone by Feb. True, people that could have bought a hot tub a few years ago on credit who really should not have been buying a hot tub in the first place are now getting denied. Negotiations are one thing, but as a dealer it gets tiresome when people come in expecting to get a tub for what I pay for it. So giving a tub away is going to save your business if you are in trouble? That makes a lot of sense. Hot tubs are a luxury item correct? It's completely fair to ask for a ridiculous price but don't get offended when the dealer says no, sorry but this doesn't seem like it's going to work out. Service is what is saving a lot of the good companies out there. If you are an established dealer with a lot of tubs out there then there is money to get you through the tough times. Our big years were 2001-2004. These tubs are all out of warranty now and are prone to service calls for heaters, circ pumps, new covers, etc... 2-3 grand off of a floor model sounds like a good deal to me. Like someone else said...it's inside a showroom, barely anyone used it, and it has a full warranty.

That's good to hear...enjoy!

Most likely a bad heater. You can check it with a multimeter set to ohms. Between the black and white heater leads you should get a reading of 9.8 ohms. If it reads open then you need a new heater.

It has to do with the small black jumpers that are located in the control box. There are about 8-12 of them in there. If you look on the back cover of the control box it should tell you the "normal" setting of the jumpers for the prodigy (model H). First, make sure you follow the diagram for the proper voltage of your tub (110 or 220 converted). Then look to see if there is one jumper that differs from this setting and that is most likely the one to allow Fahrenheit to be displayed. I want to guess it's number 9 but I'm not sure until I look the diagram. Turn power off when you are looking in there and when/if you move one of the jumpers.

Wow! This is a special day. Dan T Man goofed. I never thought I would live to see the day. This man is very good, and very good with giving his time and energy - and much appreciated. On a US-spec tub, 220 volts does mean the tub should heat as Dan said. However, the UK-spec tub has only a 1500watt heater on 220v, and will only do one or two degrees per hour. Also - the lowest setting on the unit is 80, so it is possible the water was much colder than that when you started. Give it some more time. As to an amp meter, yes, your unit should draw somewhere around 5 to 7 amps at the heater. If you have the "No Fault" heater, it does have four heating elements, and one or more can go out leaving a VERY slow heater. The amp meter will tell you that. Ahhhh, you got me. I usually preface my advice to owners of exported models with "I'm not familiar with the specifics of the export tubs but this is how it works on the US models." I was in a hurry this morning though....getting busy in the Northeast with Summer coming! Thanks for the props though. I like trying to help people who like to help themselves, which is usually the case on here.

If them lights are on, you need to check amp draw on the heater circuit when spa is calling for heat. If it 0 then the heater is bad. Also try reading ohms across the the heater wires, this alway does work but if it reads open no resistence then heater is bad Also, at 110 volts the tub will only heat about 1 degree/hour and the heater will not feel hot to the touch, so make sure you give it some time before driving yourself crazy.

Yes, that's how you check...what do you get for an amperage reading? AT 240volts, you should get 5 degrees an hour or more, so it sounds like it may only be heating from friction of the pump running or it may be wired wrong and only getting 110 volts.

Did you put the filters back in or leave them out? If you just hosed the filters out and put them back in then it could still be that the pores of the filter are clogged. I would take them right out (put the caps back on the filter stems) and reset the breakers again. If the lights don't come back on then you need to chemically soak the filters in a cleaner or get new ones. If both lights still come back on then it is most likely the pressure switch (which is built into the heater). Could also be a clogged or bad circulation pump. Should be under warranty.

Serial number is different from what I am familiar with. Is this an export tub to canada or Europe? I Believe it is a USA Made Spa, Just purchased it here in the USA (Missouri 30 Miles South of St Louis to be Specific). I think it May be a 1998 or 1999. FYI it Has the Digital Control Panel and IQ2000 Controller, and older Fiber optic Based Topside Controls. Please click on the Links below to See Pics of the SN Label and Grandee SPA. GRANDEE SN LABEL? Picture of Grandee SPA. What Year is it? Any Help Greatly Appreciated! Kevin Looks like a 98 or 99 with the wood sides. I've never seen a label like that on a tub...maybe it was a warranty replacement for a defective tub.

Serial number is different from what I am familiar with. Is this an export tub to canada or Europe?

What you have in your hand is actually two or three pieces (depending on how much came out). If the whole valve came out: You need to seperate the body of the valve from the threaded "cap". Hold onto the cap and wiggle the valve back and forth while pulling apart. It should come apart. Now it may look like one piece but there is actually a threaded piece inside the cap that still comes out. Hold the inside piece with the vise grips and wiggle it out from the cap.\ Put the valve back in...it is slotted and will only go in one way. Next, screw the threaded piece that was stuck inside of the cap onto the valve. screw it on really tight. Then press the cap back onto the threaded piece. The reason it comes out is from turning the valve too tightly when turning the waterfall on and off. It gets seized to that inner screw piece and the whole thing comes out.

The tub is currently filled & not heating, we have emptied it & cleaned it & then refilled it, still no heating. We live in an area that never goes below freezing (CA). Without the heater, would the value drop at least $300, if someone was willing too foot the bill for a heater replacement? I think it drops greatly in value. People just arn't willing to pay a lot for something that isn't working. SOmeone interested in buying it has to consider the cost to prepare an area, possibly hire an electrician, pay to have it moved, maybe get new filters, buy a new cover (if yours is heavy). All of this and now they have a tub that doesn't work. So they have to call a tech out and are at their mercy as to how much more they need to spend. So in my opinion it is worth a lot more if you fix it first. It more than likely the heater relay board ($125) or the heater if you still have the NoFault6000 original model in it. I have sold refurbished 2000-2001 Prodigies for $2500-$3500. But these were completely redone...new cover, newly stained, new heater, circ pump, filters, delivery...etc *****Also, did you check the reset buttom on top of heater (if it still has the NoFault 6000 heater)?

A few questions... Is the tub filled now and just not heating? It may not be the heater, there are several other possibilities. If it has been empty for a while, are you in an area where temps get below freezing? A heater costs around $250-$300. You would probably get much more for the tub if you replace the heater and have it up and running to show someone. In good condition and heating $1500-$2500. If it is empty and it knowingly wasn't heating, many people won't even consider buying it for any amount.

Not having the ground attached will not cause any of that. Just make sure it gets re-attached for safety. Most likely there was an air bubble in the line or the circ pump didn't start up when you re-powered the tub. You may have to bleed it out or give the circ pump a tap with a screwdriver to restart it. That extra connection goes into the box and plugs in to a pin that now should have a jumper on it which says "pressure Switch"

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed). Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply. Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Got it, thanks Dan. I'm used to fishing wire. I don't suppose there's a wiring diagram online anywhere for this kind of stuff on the hot spring models? I presume before I go through all of this I should be able to pull the phone cable out of the IQ and try some basic continuity checks to make sure the switches themselves (all 3? is this common?) have actually failed. A wiring diagram for the electrical? ...or a plumbing diagram? There is nothing specifically for the Aux pad. The pad that you have is garbage, there is a new design that is much better. On the old ones water would get through the buttons and destroy the electronics.

The Aux pad is connected to the main control box by phone cable which is housed in conduit. To replace the aux pad, you need to: 1. kill power 2. Open up the IQ2020 control box that all of the wires go into. The Aux pad plugs into the upper right corner with a phone line type connector. 3. Unplug the phone line and tie some thin string (masonary line works the best) around it. 4. Use a screwdriver to pry up on the old pad, it should come up pretty easily. 5. Now comes the part that may be easy or can be quite hard. You need to pull all of the phone cord out towards the pad end until you get to the string that you attached to the end. It may help to have two people...one feeding the cord into the conduit and one gently pulling from the pad end. Sometimes the cord comes right out, other times it is difficult and you need to be careful not to break the phone cord. If it becomes tough, don't pull so hard that the phone cord starts to stretch, because it will break. Try short little 'jerks' while the other person is feeding it through. 6. Once you get to the end where your string is connected, you connect the string to the end of the new aux pad end and pull it back through and reconnect. Then use some silicone to seal the new pad in.

Unless I'm mistaken, you can't have a 2 speed 110v unit. A two speed blower would have four wires coming in : Black, White, Red, and your ground My sovereign doesn't have a blower motor so I can't determine, but on regular pumps the wiring configuration is as just listed. How many connections are there are the blower motor? Pics? No, it's a jet pump. Is there any terminal that says Comm or Neutral?