P. Dan Posted July 21, 2019 Report Share Posted July 21, 2019 Hello, I have a Jandy 1400 salt cell with a Aquapure “computer” model: APUREM. This week we had a power outage which may or may not have anything to do with it. But after that the computer starting beeping and displaying a code DE followed by 60 flashing in the screen. The chlorination level went to 35% (we had it at 60%). However, the flow light wouldn’t come on. The power light was on and cell reversing was flashing (3-4 second intervals). The control pad went to pgm A, it was on B. So I tried resetting it, nothing changed. So, I changed the pad to PGM B, took the chlorination level up to 65%, since the chlorine level dropped substantially and let it run. That was last night, today I got out and the screen is stuck on dE, no beeping, buttons won’t work. Power light is on but no other lights, so I try to reset it by turning the breaker off and back on. Upon restarting it, the LCD comes on with every letter, symbol, everything lit up (I tried to upload a photo but it is too large of a file). Still only power light is on. Any ideas what could be wrong? UPDATE: I tried turning the breaker off again and back on, it looked like it was going to work like.m normal. Put the chlorine up to 65%, power on light was on, and LCD displayed 65% and “wait” after waiting about 30 minutes, it was still on that screen. Tried checking salt level with the “C” button but it was completely jammed. Tried all the buttons and the computer wouldn’t respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallmonitor1116 Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Did anyone respond to this? I am having the same exact symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikerr Posted January 21, 2022 Report Share Posted January 21, 2022 I held down the a and b arrows at the same time for @ 5 seconds and the code and beeping cleared. Operating normally now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Songer Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 The DE code means "Diagnostic mode". I too could hit the up and down arrows simultaneously and it would correct itself. However, when the pump turned off and then back on as part of its daily operation, it would do right back to the DE code. Called Jandy and they essentially said the board is toast and replaced mine free of charge without without asking where I purchased the board or a receipt. Hope this helps the next person with this issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptsintx Posted February 27 Report Share Posted February 27 Exact same problem. When I called Jandy they offered no help or advice. What “board” did you replace? The “User Interface Board” (the one with the LED screen) or the board way in the back that connects to the user interface board with a ribbon cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyTheCourse Posted April 16 Report Share Posted April 16 Same dE problem. Aquapure 1400 salt cell. I pressed the C and D buttons for 5 seconds (wait for 2nd beep), it would reset and run properly but it would always end up going back to dE at some point while running or always when the pump restarted. I called Aquapure, but they would not help, said I had to call a local dealer. Knowing all my local dealers are unknowledgeable or are con-artists and will only sell you new equipment. So I bought a new back circuit board and solved the problem. Shop for board R0467600 is the listed board #. You will see E0261700 printed on the middle of the board. Very easy to do. Turn off breaker, disconnect all the plug in ribbons and wires. Take pictures of the order of the wire colors for any of the individual wires, so you connect them back in the correct order. Pro tip: Use a magnetic driver to hold the screws when removing the board from the box, as you will not be able grab them with your fingers, and they drop into the abyss if you let them drop. Standard metal box screws, so easy to replace, but easier to use a magnetic driver. The Board generally looks in good condition so I suspect a resistor or capacitor is blown. If I have time I will see if I can find what caused the board to fail and update this post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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