Paver Decking

[paddywack]

I have old concrete decking around a newly refurbished pool, I'm going to put pavers down. Question ... do I have to provide an expansion joint and/or weather strip between pavers and coping? I live in PA so we get freeze thaw conditions. What did your contractor do? and .... how do you install anchor bolts/pins into the paver for the safety cover straps to connect to? .... anyone?

[DKN1997]

I have old concrete decking around a newly refurbished pool, I'm going to put pavers down. Question ... do I have to provide an expansion joint and/or weather strip between pavers and coping? I live in PA so we get freeze thaw conditions. What did your contractor do? and .... how do you install anchor bolts/pins into the paver for the safety cover straps to connect to? .... anyone?

yes, use the expansion joint!!! on a gunite pool, nothing will pop the tiles off faster than no expansion joint. probably a good idea with any pool, even a vinyl. costs barely anything to do, so why not?

on the saftety cover, it needs to be installed with anchor-in-pipe asemblies. it is a standard concrete (short anchor) pressed into an 18" aluminum pipe. you drill 1" holes as opposed to 3/4" like you would do for concrete. you must drill through the paver, and the slab underneath. then use a lump hammer to drive the anchor in pipe in. it passes through everything and will not move at all.

3 things:

1. Don't be tempted to make your own assemblies by buying galvanized pipe, cutting it, and whacking standard masonry anchors into it. been there, done that. it never looks that great and it's very tough not to have the anchor push down into the pipe without denting the crap out of the pipe.

the cover companies make premade anchor in pipe assemblies. They cost more, but the anchor never spins in them and they have a much better look.

2. the assemblies come in 18" lengths (although meyco has recently started cutting them down) you don't need 18" pipes unless your deck has monster gaps between the bricks and no slab underneath, or you are anchoring straight into grass or planters.

3. Drill, or make sure your cover installer does, into the gaps between bricks. other wise you will crack the pavers by trying to hammer drill them with a carbide bit. the only to drill into the paver and be safe is to use a water core drill with a diamond bit, like a hilti dd100. You can drill into the center of the paver/brick with a regular hammer drill and sometimes get lucky, but don't gamble with it.

also, have extra bricks just in case.

p.s. don't blame the cover guy if the bricks sink a little or chip when the anchors are drilled. patios that are installed the right way don't have this happen.

I have old concrete decking around a newly refurbished pool, I'm going to put pavers down. Question ... do I have to provide an expansion joint and/or weather strip between pavers and coping? I live in PA so we get freeze thaw conditions. What did your contractor do? and .... how do you install anchor bolts/pins into the paver for the safety cover straps to connect to? .... anyone?

don't forget, anchors usually go about 3' from edge of pool. general rule of thumb

[paddywack]

don't forget, anchors usually go about 3' from edge of pool. general rule of thumb

That's very helpfull. Thanks

I've put a few EP Henry patios down and a few walkways also a bit of Belgium block. I am going with EP Henry for my own project. I have not done a pool deck before (as you probably guessed) and it sounds like you have. So can you describe the best method and material for an expansion joint around coping. I 'm not sure how deep to go with the expansion joint and what material is best.

The existing 6" thick concrete deck will be demolished and removed from site, then I have to remove a little soil to get correct level. The pavers, sand, crush n run and mirafi sheeting will equal about 9" deep after compaction. Shall the joint be deeper than this to the soil below (10" or more) or just deep enough to clear the bedding sand and penetrate the compacted sub-base (4")?

Do you know of any links to specs and standards for this work?

This is a pet worry of mine because the previous home owner did not maintain the caulk around the coping so the coping and tiles popped along with patches of plaster. The pool is 46x20 and 9ft deep at one end so It cost me 15,000 to re-plaster, tile and cope, I don't want to do that again soon.