Wannabespaexpert Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Hi - I have enuf knowledge probably to be a little dangerous but really could use some help. After a brief winter shutdown of my HS Landmark (purged all water), it started up & heated up just fine...then the heater quit (everything else is fine). Below are the specifics - any advise would be welcomed (kidding aside, I'm handy with a volt meter and understand the basics): My 5-6 year old IQ 2000 (NOT IQ 2020) heater red LED is on, as is the LIM OK light. The remote light off as it is unplugged. When I opened the box the White hot wire was charred but still carrying a load (I replaced the flag connectors on all the heater wires). Voltages coming in from the panel & at the output of the relay are "normal" (i.e. black to ground 120, white to ground 120, black to white 220+). The contacts look a bit blackened but are energized. I get 9.3 ohms when testing my 7-8 year old no fault 6000 heater (using black & white wires). I replaced the 30 amp GFI breaker @ the sub panel as it was not tripping - but still no luck. Again - any help would be greatly appreciated! If I need new heater or control box then so be it - just want to make sure I have this diagnosed correctly before spending more $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtwinbarblaster Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I am assuming you have an side access panel that when removed allows access to pumps,controls,etc. If you have removed the panel to inspect, or repair something, and now you are trying to verify proper operation of pumps,air blower, light, etc. when you are doing this, are you trying to run spa with the spa side panel removed? if so try putting panel back on and see if it will return to normal operation,, but before you place the panel in place, look at the perimeter edges of the panel on both sides, if the inside of the panel has a 2'' long rectangular shaped plastic coated piece with 2 screws at each end mounted to the panel, It will also have a similar plastic piece mounted on the spa side of the access hole, so when the panel is in place it will line up both pieces, and magnetically close the open circuit that is created when the panel is off, "heater interlock switch" or "magnetic interlock" this is a safety feature on some spas, As far as your 30A G.F.I. panel breaker when you said it wasn't tripping did you mean it wouldn't test and reset when the test button on the breaker was pressed? and when you replaced it with new one did that G.F.I. also fail to reset when the test button was pressed like the original I am assuming you are referring to the test button on the G.F.I,. when you refer to it as "not tripping" so make sure the panel door is on the spa, and see if might be problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabespaexpert Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks for the reply - Regarding the CGFI breaker - if was not tripping with the test button on the breaker itself. Once I replaced the breaker at the subpanel, it is now working fine (i.e., will trip when pressed). The spa was purchased in 1999 and I don't believe (I can't locate) any interlock switch or anything resembling a magnetic interlock. I did close up all the panels with all screws once I finished and the behavior is the same. There is no heat. THe blowers, circulation pump etc - all work perfectly. Any additional feedback would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabespaexpert Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Thanks to all who read this - I was the weak link in the chain as one of the relays was indeed "fried" & not working. I bypassed the relay (used the un-used one next to it there appears to be a few extras & everything appears to be working fine.... Best to all - I love this forum & its experts that "donate" their time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtwinbarblaster Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hopefully you have not "BYPASSED" your heater control check list of things that it verifies when it calls for heat, i.e, 1) temp/overheat status 2) water flow/pressure verification. These are the big two, just because you have found a way to get the heater to work, doesn't mean it's right. Diagnosing electrical problems has nothing to do with guessing, if you are not absolutely certain about what you are doing, you will be reminded of that when, your spa has now reached a temperature so high it makes it's own bubbles, because it no longer has the ability to regulate it's temperature when maintaining your preferred temp setting ( which you might have disabled ) or turning off heater completely in the event of exceeding high-limit sensor rating ( which you might have disabled ) there is a reason why the heater was wired to the relay that failed, I DO NOT RECOMMEND BYPASSING THE HEATER CONTROL CIRCUIT !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.