Pool Closing, Using A Heater

[codebrown]

Our pool is a rectangular 22G with an autocover and natural gas boiler, gunite IG with Hydrazzo finish.

When we completed the pool in June our PB suggested that during the winter we simply set the boiler temp around 45 to prevent freezing (we are in the NW and rarely gets below 45) and do a chemical check once a week or so.

I keep reading about more complex closing procedures, i.e. draining the pool below the pipes, using antifreeze, etc. Does anyone else just simply keep the autocover on, keep the temp above 40 and keep checking chemistry through the winter?

Thanks.

[jkusmier]

Our pool is a rectangular 22G with an autocover and natural gas boiler, gunite IG with Hydrazzo finish.

When we completed the pool in June our PB suggested that during the winter we simply set the boiler temp around 45 to prevent freezing (we are in the NW and rarely gets below 45) and do a chemical check once a week or so.

I keep reading about more complex closing procedures, i.e. draining the pool below the pipes, using antifreeze, etc. Does anyone else just simply keep the autocover on, keep the temp above 40 and keep checking chemistry through the winter?

Thanks.

If you don't experience a hard freeze there's no need to drain/winterize - esp w/ an autocover. Setting the heater to 45F (or even 40F) should safeguard the pool. Worst case, in the event of a prolonged chill, you'll take a hit on your gas bill. Once you've decided to end your season, you should shock, allow the FC (free chlorine) to drop back down to 2-6 ppm, then add polyquat 60 (algaecide) and let the pump run for a day (polyquat is very viscous and will take time to dilute). No need to test pH and FC (free chlorine) in sub-50F temps every week, esp w/ an autocover - you'll probably be fine doing so every 2 weeks. When you find you need to adjust the pH or raise the pH make sure to let the pump run at least 8 hours to fully circulate the chems. Finally, if for some reason it's necessary to shock the pool (I know, why not wait until spring but w/ an autocover there's really no reason to let the pool go green in that climate) allow the FC to drop to 2-6 ppm before closing the cover. Over time, chlorine outgassing can damage things like solid covers.

So, I'm curious - how long is your swim season, and how often do you find yourself using the heater?

[codebrown]

Thanks for the reply. That helps a ton.

So this year, we filled the pool mid-June, brought the temp up to 84 from around 65 degrees, and maintained it at around 86. We swam tonight (light rain, about 70 degrees).

Our gas bill has been about $100 a month more than average I suspect. We'll probably keep heating it until it looks hopeless and cold as far as winter arriving, which never really seems to happen until October.

[codebrown]

By the way, I still don't quite get the role of the algaecide, in the sense that I've had pretty great chem control all season with the FC always around 1-2 ppm and a really clean pool. Is the algaecide just an insurance policy?

[dscriterium]

Is the algaecide just an insurance policy?

Yes, and an optional one at that. Many, many folks do not use an algaecide in either pools or hot tubs. Maintaining adequate chlorine levels eliminates the need.

That said, if your chlorinating regimen is a little undisciplined, algaecide can back you up nicely.

[codebrown]

Thank-you for the additional clarification.