Luda* Posted August 4, 2008 Report Share Posted August 4, 2008 I just went to my local pool store and gave them a water sample, and this is the report that they gave me..... free chlorine 0.2ppm............they told me to add 3 pt 3.0 oz Liquid Chlorine total chlorine 0.2ppm combined chlorine 0.0ppm pH 7.8...................add 1 lb 9.0 oz REGAL pH Minus hardness 190 ppm............add 7 lb 8.0 oz REGAL Calcium Increaser ($18) alkalinity (w/ stabilizer correction) 0ppm...add 25 lb 14.0 oz REGAL Alkalinity Plus ($15) Cyanuric Acid 10ppm...............add 7 lb 3.0 oz REGAL Pool Stabilizer ($27) Copper 0.0ppm Iron 0.0ppm Total Dissolved Solids 2000ppm I have a 17,280 gal outdoor inground plaster pool, and i live in Miami with the temp in the high 80s low 90s. Can someone please tell me if they are trying to make me add stuff that is not needed, or that they are actually correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumpelnc Posted August 4, 2008 Report Share Posted August 4, 2008 I just went to my local pool store and gave them a water sample, and this is the report that they gave me..... free chlorine 0.2ppm............they told me to add 3 pt 3.0 oz Liquid Chlorine Seams reasonable according to this chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/category/po...cya_chart_shock total chlorine 0.2ppm combined chlorine 0.0ppm That's Good, combined chlorine indicates nasty's in your pool, so 0 is perfect pH 7.8...................add 1 lb 9.0 oz REGAL pH Minus A lil on the High end, but you can get it down with muriatic acid hardness 190 ppm............add 7 lb 8.0 oz REGAL Calcium Increaser ($18) Now it gets tricky...for me, I never owned a plaster pool, so I really can't help you there alkalinity (w/ stabilizer correction) 0ppm...add 25 lb 14.0 oz REGAL Alkalinity Plus ($15) I would adjust this first, before you work on your PH, they are in close relation to each other.I would use Baking Soda, it has the least affect on your PH Cyanuric Acid 10ppm...............add 7 lb 3.0 oz REGAL Pool Stabilizer ($27) Try to get it between 30-50ppm Copper 0.0ppm Iron 0.0ppm Total Dissolved Solids 2000ppm I have a 17,280 gal outdoor inground plaster pool, and i live in Miami with the temp in the high 80s low 90s. Can someone please tell me if they are trying to make me add stuff that is not needed, or that they are actually correct It could be that they are correct, but I would not count on it, your best bet is to take matters in your own hands, and get a good drop based Test Kit How does your Water look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luda* Posted August 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2008 its been raining the last couple days (idk if that matters) and theres a lot of algae and its starting to turn green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumpelnc Posted August 4, 2008 Report Share Posted August 4, 2008 its been raining the last couple days (idk if that matters) and theres a lot of algae and its starting to turn green You have to get some chlorine in there ASAP!!!! More then likely, you got the algae because of low chlorine Here is good read on how to maintain a pool http://www.troublefreepool.com/category/pool-school/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luda* Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 does anyone know if those are good prices for those products? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elizabeth Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 yeah I agree with mumpelnc it was lack of chlorine, The correct amount of Stabilised Chlorine must be used and the filtration must be done for at least 4 hours a day during winter, and 8 hours a day in summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 I very much doubt that the Total Alkalinity (TA) is really zero. This is inconsistent with the pH test reading in the normal range (actually the pH is a little on the high side at 7.8). Your fill water probably has TA in it and normally TA only gets to zero from continued use of Trichlor tabs/pucks (which are very acidic) without doing any pH adjustment in which case the pH gets very low to below 4.5. Also, they should have given you a reading on Calcium Hardness (CH) not Total Hardness -- it's unclear what they mean by "hardness". Plaster pools do need the saturation index to be near zero. You can calculate the index as well as dosing amount by using The Pool Calculator. As was recommended in previous posts, the first thing you need to do is to get chlorine into your pool. You need to shock the pool with chlorine to kill the algae as described here. I STRONGLY suggest that you get your own good test kit -- either the Taylor K-2006 you can get at a good online price here or the TF100 from tftestkits.com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is comparably priced "per test". I do not trust the pool store numbers -- they do not always do the measurements correctly. If after using your own test kit you need additional chemicals, you do not have to buy them at the pool store unless they are reasonably priced (unlikely in most cases) or you feel the pool store has given you good service deserving of a premium. For example, pH Minus is dry acid (sodium bisulfate), but you can buy Muriatic Acid from a hardware store to use instead. For Calcium Increaser (calcium chloride) you can use Dow Peladow or DowFlake. For Alkalinity Plus (sodium bicarbonate), you can use the identical product Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the only chemical you have to get at the pool store. I would not buy anything until you test your own water yourself using your own test kit. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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