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Hello, Everyone. This salt / chlorine generation has been a nightmare since buying my home with an inground pool 4 years ago. (Salt, 28k gallon, gunite, 2 skimmers, 1hp super pump, DE hayward pro-grid filter). My issues are around chlorine generation. The salt system is an older Mineral Springs MS-10 Control Panel with software version (r 1.40). I just bought a brand new $900 Hayward salt cell (TCELL 940) a couple hrs ago. I have flow, I have power, I have all chemicals in, water tested, all good -- yet the following issues are present: When I turn Control Panel off, and then switch back up to Auto (on), all green lights are activated and system is generating/working. 5 minutes pass and then I hear a single click noise inside the Panel and then the Green Light next to "Generating Sanitizer" disappears. So I don't believe it's Generating anymore. Secondly, Check Minerals gets lit up Red. Thirdly, inspect cell gets lit up solid Orange (not blinking, and when I hold the selection button down for 3-4 seconds, it doesn't turn off, like I read it should). So not sure what this is all about? Could the older control panel not be compatible with the new salt cell? (Think of hooking together a computer from 2005 with parts from today, 2020; compatibility may be an issue?) Also, what setting do I need to choose on the Control Panel. AL-0, AL-1, AL-2, AL-3, AL-4, AL-5? Perhaps the software version (r 1.40) isn't compatible, either? I don't know. Maybe time to just buy a new Control Panel from the year 2020? I'm sooo tempted to just bulldoze and fill this pool in, and plant some pepper & squash plants! If anyone can lend a minute of assistance, it would be SOOO APPRECIATED! Your Fellow American, David

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Ok. I have been having problems with the heater housing from my spa and not sure how to fix it. I have a Dynasty Spas spa with the In.XE spa pack that i got from Trevi in Montreal Quebec. For the first little while i would only have problems with mechanical/electronic things like the control board or the spa pack, and even once the 240/110 converter box, and those were all fixed under warranty. Last winter (2013) however i had a leak in the spa somewhere and the spa started emptying until only enough water was left in the bottom. This was mid winter so it froze. Long story short i had to have TONS of piping underneath redone. At that time, they claimed that the leak started within my heater assembly and they said the reason for the leak was that the spa was not meant to run on salt, and also that the water chemistry was off, and that that was what caused the small hole which eventually led to a crack in one of the seals. So they replaced the heater, which i had to pay for, and i called Gecko, the makers of the spa pack. They actually sell a salt system and said that salt systems are ok to use in this spa. So i continued again and no problems until the end of this winter (couple of weeks ago). I started noticing a small puddle of water that never dried up near the corner. So today i managed to open up the front panel and take a look inside. Now i am not sure if there's a full sized hole in it or around it, but there was definitely water leaking out from there somewhere. The heater assembly had salt accumulation along various parts of it. So i took it all out and the 3 nuts at the top where the heater cables come out were all rusted. I am not sure what to do at this point. I can replace the heater for around $100 but i want to stay with a salt system as the bromine has adverse effects on my skin. Can anyone give me some tips maybe on how to keep it under control? I use the Technichlor Salt System and for the first few years everything was fine. It's just these past 2 years that have caused the problems. Thanks in advance. I can post pics if anyone thinks it will help.

I have been considering a salt system for my spa. Obviously my main concerns are about corrosion. One thing I do not understand is how quickly do they make chlorine? If I have a light bather load during the week, and a heavy bather load during the weekends is it easy to adjust these systems to compensate up or down for chlorine demand? And how quickly do they respond? Does anyone have any experience with the saltron mini?

We have had a Hydropool 495 model with salt system for 2 years. It has been very fussy and hard to keep clean. I feel like we are out there every other day checking the levels and adding chemicals or taking water samples in to be checked at our local spa store. There is nothing easy about this hot tub. This past 6 months were the worst and we had to put bromine pucks in just to keep the bromine up. We thought it was broken so we had a technician come take a look and he said it's probably the phosphate levels are too high. True enough, the water test showed phosphates off the chart. Through process of elimination, we discovered our well water was to blame for the high phosphates. So we emptied the tub on Sunday, checked the well water (now 6 months since we last emptied the tub, now a different season) there are no phosphates in our well water so we filled it up and did the regime of chemicals and salt. The tub was crystal clear, beautiful smelling, just gorgeous, for the first time in 6 months, and today - 3 days later - it is green and smells of alge. We tested it, and there is no bromine in the water at all. Does this mean that the machine is broken? Has it been broken all winter long? What exactly did the technician do when we called him out here at the beginning? - Oh and it's on filter cylce 8 if that means anything. We are beyond frustrated and dissapointed with this tub. It was SO expensive to buy, and now maintenance is breaking the bank. If anyone can shed some light on this situation, it would be appreciated. Has anyone else experienced this problem with a salt tub?

Recently had my salt cell (t15) go bad. Purchased a new (t-cell-3) not realizing that my main control unit firmware revision was 1.4. Is it possible to upgrade the firmware? Is it a board replacement inside of the main unit? Is there anything I can do short of having to purchase a new control unit? Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Hi, we just bought a 13 x 25 semi-inground wood pool equiped with a heat pump and a salt chlorine generator. In reading through the Salt system guide, they indicate that the system runs whenver the pump runs, and they recommend this to be anywhere from 6 to 8 hours a day. The heatpump however typically provides its best effenciency if it works all the time, and has its own thermostat to properly control the water temperature. How should a system like this be properly plumbed and configured? Thanks.