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Found 12 results

  1. Hey guys, So I have a had a bit of a lengthy project. I have a used inifinity spas hot tub (balboa z-series spa pack) with two motors in it, and one of the motors starting getting super loud consistently, low or high speed. I opted to replace the motor because it's around 10 years old and there was a lot of corrosion. During replacement of the motor, I came across a loose cable in my GFCI breaker box that caused the motor relay 30A fuse to fry on the spa pack. So I repaired the loose wire, replaced the 30A fuse, and replaced the motor. We made lots of progress, as the motor now turns on low speed properly; however, when attempting to change that motor to high speed, it buzzes loudly then shuts off. Using a multimeter, I determined that it's a voltage overload, as testing the low speed with common at the motor is 240v (as it should be) when jets are set to low speed, and the high speed wire with common is 0v, which is also good. However, when I set the jets to high speed, the low-speed wire is still 240v with the common, and the high-speed with common is ALSO 240v, so they're both feeding power simultaneously. It seems like the relay isn't turning off the low-speed wire when it turns on the high. Does anyone have any suggestion or thought? Thank you!
  2. Hello all! I've been lurking here for some time, finally its time I am able to contribute some info to those who may be in a similar situation. I'm also hoping to have some know mods posted here, for example possibly a thermostat mod so I can turn the temp up to 106 or 108. Also if anyone is using a floating chlorine dispenser, if so what kind? I haven't found very many threads about Softubs or info about what people are doing when they break down. So, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 220 gallon softub motor. My tub is about 3 years old and I've had it for of those 2 years. About a month ago it started getting louder and louder. I figured it was a dying bearing, I didn't realize how bad that bearing was and how difficult it was going to be. For some reason there are no part numbers on anything, not on the motor or the pump assembly. I don't know why but it has made this project a bit more time consuming. It was difficult to get apart because everything was really corroded together. In the process I managed to break the plastic fan inside the motor, as well as fracture the aluminum end cap that the bearing presses into. It still wouldn't come off, so I got the torch. lol I managed to get it off but it wasn't pretty. I understood I was probably going to ruin what was left of that aluminum end cap. I was going to search the recycling yard for a new 48 frame end cap. They always have a dumpster full of recycled electric motors. Anyways, I decided to go with a new motor, because I still had a bearing frozen to the armature of the motor. I really didn't want to mess with it. The actual culprit that caused the bearing to fail was a cracked impeller shaft. It let small amounts of water by the seal and slowly rusted out the front bearing. Pretty common issue from what I've read. After hours of research this is the motor that I found, It is the exact same one Softub used. I emailed a few hottub parts suppliers and even Softub it's self, no one answered any of my questions. After some digging I found It's a 48 frame 1HP 1 speed Emerson motor, 12A 110v. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVC8LFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Another link with more specs and info https://www.spapumpsandmore.com/Softub_Motor_for_Softub_Pump_MTREM_6497_Soft_Tub_p/mtrem-6497.htm Basically my plan was to move all the new parts from the new motor into the old motor housing with the piping. It was pretty straight forward since everything was identical. Unfortunately no one seams to carry the motor with the stainless steel piping wrapped around it. I've found this option that supposedly works the same as the stainless steel wrap but I read some reviews saying they leak, so I lost interest. I'm having issues with posting multiple pics and putting text in-between the images so I'll have to post all the pics one after another without text in-between them. I used anti-seize grease on the mating surfaces where the aluminum end caps mate to the steel housing, I also slathered it on the bearings. Just in case I ever have to do this again. Note in the last pic how there is aluminum foil tape covering the vents at the back of the motor. I believe Softub did that to keep the heat of the motor in, because if the motor ran to cool it wouldn't be as good of a heater. These motors can get really hot if not properly cooled, 104 degree water probably keeps these motors way below the maximum temp these can handle. I'll post updates when the impeller and new seal kit comes in. Update: I received the 1HP impeller, its not the right one. I think Softub used a 3HP impeller. Thinking about it they can get away with working this motor harder than normal because they don't have to worry about overheating the motor since its essentially water cooled. Same concept with water cooled boats, they don't have to worry as much about cooling because the lake water is always the same temp regardless of how hard they run it that day. Update: After emailing back and forth with an aqua-flo service specialist the verdict is the impeller is specially made for the Softub. After contacting a certified repair shop they said the parts are sold on a "closed market". Basically he can't sell me the parts but can repair my pump for $1000, also rebuild my motor that's already rebuilt. I'm not paying $1k to have this repaired by some guy. I decided to try and JB weld the crack in my impeller. Its on the shaft, it's not necessarily a structural part. Definitely not a load bearing part. After it was dry I smoothed it out and polished the surface. I saw in a pump rebuild video the guy used a little silicone to help seal the seal to the shaft as well as help it slide on during installation. So I did, I put everything back together and let the silicone dry. My softub has been running leak free for about 3 weeks now. I've been checking for leaks a few times a day. So far so good. I know this is only a band aid. I am currently shopping for a standard 1.5HP XP2e pump w/ impeller. The flow rates may be different but to me it's worth trying. I'm trying to document the parts and process of rebuilding a softub since there is a lack of info out there. But for now its been working.
  3. Hi all, My coast spa pump 2 dies on me this week, it has been more than 10 years. I replaced the capacitor but still not working. It starts up for a second and stop. I think it is time to replace a new pump motor. I attached the label of the pump here. I can not find the exact pump, can I use a comparable pump, and thank you in advance to send me a link of one.
  4. I had a leak in the AquaFlo XP2 pump in my Morgan Oceanside Spa. The leak was between motor and the wet end. I ordered a seal kit from amazon and received it yesterday. I closed the slice valves and started to remove the pump, but a significant amount of water started draining and did not stop promptly, like the valves didn't close. So I drained the tub, removed motor and wet end, and separated the two. I found a great video on youtube from Spa Superman describing this process. The motor and pump are relatively new; only 2-3 years old, so everything came apart easily. The impeller was a little hard, but not too bad. I replaced the o-rings and shaft seals, no problem. I reinstalled everything back into the tub, filled it up, and powered it on. I didn't break anything during this process. All the plastic parts are intact. The whole process went very smoothly. The pump ran for 2-3 minutes, then I got a bright orange spark inside the motor. It tripped the breaker. There was no whine from the motor, and the pump was running in low speed. I flipped the breaker back on, and tried to start the motor, but all I get is a "click" sound when I press the pump button. I think the click is coming from the panel. Any ideas what went wrong? I am suspicious of one of the valves. When I opened it, the handle came off in my hand, and some water shot out in a stream. Could that be stuck closed, which would have constricted output from the pump? Like I said, there was no unusual or scary sound from the motor, and the pump was running in low speed. I see no obvious sign of anything being fried on the board, and the two buss fuses look fine.
  5. Hello everyone, Having a bit of trouble. I've got a big Coast spa. Got a screaming deal on it - 8 seater, two 2 stage pumps, etc. etc. It's one from 2003-2004 that had the motor recall (which I'm currently trying to take advantage of with Coast). My problem is this: motor 2 was burning fuses. It would fire up and run just fine or it would buzz before burning a fuse. I left is sit for several months just using pump 1. The other day, I finally got a new capacitor put on and, lo and behold, the motor fired right up (and blew a pound of algae into the water). However, it only runs stage two. Stage one doesn't click, buzz, pop or make any indication that it's attempting to activate. So, my question is: is it possible that I plugged the capacitor in backwards or something? I didn't think it's run at all if I mis-wired it. The replacement is, of course, an exact match for the old one. Or, is the pump simply too old or has been sitting too long? It just surprised me that stage 2 pumped powerfully but stage 1 wont make a sound.
  6. I'm trying to run down a problem with my motor and was wondering if anyone could help me out. Long story short, I topped off my tub the other night and meant to go back out and turn the hose off after I changed and somehow forgot. When I remembered at 6 am and jumped out of bed to check on it, the water was obviously running over and the panel showed OH on it. I turned it off and let it sit for a while. I emptied some water out and a few hours later turned it back on to see what happened. It comes on and reads the temperature but doesn't start to circulate. I took of the panel and it looks like there was some dampness in there but it wasn't too wet. I feel like the first time I tried it, it clicked a few times but nothing then happened. Now, it doesn't click or anything. Just shows the temperature. If I try to turn the pump on, the light cycles like it does as you go through the speeds, but nothing with the pump. I've had to problem solve some other stuff so I did the normal things....obviously there is power so it's not a main breaker problem. I checked the terminals with an ohm meter and that seems fine. I get a reading on both terminals when tested one by one with the black probe on ground. I checked all the fuses and they get flow across them and look good. Nothing looks as if it shorted...no dark/burn spots that I can see. I even took the capacitor off and check it and got a reading across those terminals. Any ideas?
  7. What position are the white, red and black wires to be attached to the back of the motor? Please end my confusion. We have a Leisure Bay spa with a Series S2 Board built by Balboa. It allows the spa to be wired 115V yet can be wired as 220V. After removing the motor for cleaning out dead bugs reinstalling it was easy until it was time to wire it. Now I cannot figure out where the black or the red wires go. The phrase that appears Jeffery where is: red is high speed". My motor is connected: 2 is White, 3 is Black and 4 is red. Now two sources say the red should be number 3 and the back number 4. At the present time all the spa produces is low speed. the heater works, pressure switch is new. Spa is hard wired by an electrician for 220V. Another confusion is the black wire that goes to the motor comes off a tab labeled "common Black", is this possible? ASOSmith motor, 110V, 2 speed, 1 phsase, John
  8. Hey guys, first post here, looking to get some insight. I've got an older Sunrise Spa hot tub that I picked up off craigslist 5 years ago. Until I mothballed it for a year to rebuild my house the thing worked great, especially for what i paid for it. Now I've relocated it into it's new home under my deck and a bunch of problems have come up I assume from sitting for a year. First thing i noticed once i got all wired up was one of my 2 motors was seized, I'd hit the jet button and I'd hear a buzz in the motor, but it wouldn't spin, even after breaking the shaft free. So I enlisted the help of a good friend of mine who works at a local Motor & Pump repair facility, they work on stuff from spa sized up to 1000hp industrial size. Before he got to my house, the other motor which was working, also died, same symptoms, motor buzzes, doesn't spin. At that point i also noticed my Recirculating pump seal was gone and flinging water everywhere of the shaft. We pulled all the pumps and motors out of the tub and he took everything apart, all my motors appear to be fine, capacitors seem to be alright, bearings are OK, but not great and since we have everything apart we're replacing all the seals and bearings. Unfortunately during the disassembly process, both of my impellers got destroyed because the shafts had gotten so corroded. I looked at the impellers which had tons of part numbers on them for all different HP ratings. So I saw my motors said executive 48, 5.0HP, so i ordered 5hp impellers. This is where my problem/question comes in. The impellers showed up and they're different, they're about 1/4" thicker then my factory impellers, same exact diameter. So I looked closer at my stock ones and noticed near one of the fins inside the impeller it says 3hp. So my question is, can i run this 5hp impeller on my 5.0hp motor? or should i go through the extra expense and hassle of swapping it out to a 3hp impeller? What negative effects might i see running this 5hp impeller? Thanks.
  9. Hi Everyone, I've been referencing these forums for a while now to help maintain and troubleshoot issues with my spa and now am hoping that someone may be able to help me figure out what is going on with my G3 tub. So, after having my tub shut down for about a year now I've been trying to get it up and running again. After flushing the tub, cleaning it and refilling it I was getting a DR error code. At first, foolishly, I thought it might be the heating element being burned out as it was getting old but even after replacing it still was giving me that low flow error message. After replacing the element I realized that jets on half of the tub actually were not functioning and that although the Jet 1 button worked flawlessy, when I hit Jet 2 I was hearing a loud humming noise instead of the usual pump sound. At this point I am THINKING it might be something to do with the capacitor as the bearings seem to work fine and I can spin the impeller inside of the pump with no resistance at all. However, I also noticed that the rod that spins the impeller looks absolutely terrible while the capacitor looks pristine. I've linked an imgur album below of photos I took yesterday to show what I'm talking about. Any ideas? http://imgur.com/a/w304C
  10. Hi, New to the forum and have a question for you all. My hot tub trips the 20 Amp GFCI when I turn the pumps on sporradically. Most typically noted on jets 2, and if they do come on then I turn them off and back on it will trip. Once on they run strong for 30 + minutes. So, powering on pump 1, then pump 2, may work fine, however if I turn pump 2 off it trips the breaker when I turn it back on. I disconnected pump 2 from the IQ2020 and pump one had noe problems. My best guess is its the capacitor, but newb to hot tubs. The hotsprings store said that you cannot buy a capacitor alone, and would need to buy a motor. They also offered to come check it out for a $200 service call. Any advice would be appreciated!
  11. I have a 16' H2X swimspa that I bought used and had for 6 months and the propusion motor quit working. It had been working but the propusion was getting weaker. I drained it for new water and found that the blades on the propeller were broken off. How long had they been missing? I don't know. Got the new 3 blade propeller, filled the tub, and fired up the swim spa. TSUNAMI!! After 2 days to heat the water I went to use it and it didn't work. My electrician friend and I checked all the connections we could find. I am getting 36v to the motor so I think the bearings and or motor may be shot. Has anybody rebuilt one of these 36 volt motors? The new one is $900! Any help would be great. Thanks, Clyde
  12. We have a new to us (2006) Balboa tub with a Balboa Topside Panel, Lite Digital, 54116 display. This is a basic display with two buttons, lights/jets and temp. Digital heat disply in between. I have no idea how this display operates. I can not find any kind of manual anywhere re: how this control panel works. It seems that there is no setting that allows the tub to heat without the jets/motor running. The motor automatically varies from high to low speed as it's heating. I have been in/seen other tubs that heat without the motor audibly running so I'm hoping our tub can do this, especially for $ reasons. Is this possible? Any input about this particular control panel or the ways to use the tub most efficiently would be greatly appreciated. I live in AL, it will only be below freezing (lower 20s/upper 10s) at night for, maybe, two months. Approx. 2.5 more months of low 40s/high 30s at night if that makes a difference in keeping the tub warm. Thanks!!
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