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Hi, I bought a house recently with an old spa system that isn't working well. I want to replace the components. Hot tub: 6ft diameter cedar wooden tub Heater: 200btu RayPak propane heater There is a 240v electric there. The system is covered under a deck about 10 feet from the tub. Question: Which pump, filter, and controller would you recommend to pair with the existing heater and tub? How many hp on the pump? Phil
Turns out I'm allergic to some aspect of my new cedar tub. Since it will take several months, possibly over a year to see an immunologist and determine the exact allergen, (statistically most likely to be bromine from what I have found online) we are changing from bromine to chlorine, (knowing it could eat away at the wood. If it's the correct allergen, can get a liner at that point). What I would like to know is if anyone has any educated suggestions on the best way to extract any bromine that has leached into the wood. As of now, I have drained the tub, spent at least an hour spraying the walls and floor with a hose, and refilled. We will leave it to sit for a few days with no chemicals, though the ionizer is turned on. Then I will do that same again, at least once, maybe more. For some background, while experimenting earlier to try to figure out the source of the allergy, we did empty, refill and use the next day with no chemicals once heated to see if I would react to that and I did. (I get full body rash. No one else who has used the tub has ever gotten a rash other other adverse reaction). Could be an allergy to cedar though, or something else, who knows, but gotta try something cause that thing is awesome!
Greetings everyone, I've been researching on how to best take care of my new 400 gallon Cedar Hot Tub. It's just over two months old. I've been using chlorine for sanitization, trying to keep it within the recommended 1-2 ppm, and never greater than 3 ppm. Too low I have a sanitation problem - Too high I risk wood damage. It has an ionizer installed which is not being used yet until the tannins are no longer leaching into the water.**1 The tannins are now vastly reduced. The water looks clear to me now. Even the filter canister water looks clear. It used to be a very brown tea. I've done 8 drains and this is my 9th fill. We've been very cautious with the amount of chlorine. Perhaps a little too cautious? I'm using 6% bleach (though I had been using dichlor before). I got a new filter and start fresh - other than cleaning out my pipes. So here's my question: When do I know I can switch from chlorine as my main sanitizer to using the ionizer (plus MPS)? When my chlorine demand is low? Well, I figured after the tannins were no longer visible that I'd have a lower chlorine demand. But it's still at 100% over a day's time. I'm currently doing testing every half hour, and I'm getting a chlorine demand of around 0.5-0.6 ppm of free chlorine per hour (using the Taylor K-2006). I had an idea to segregate some of the hot-tub water from the wood by placing it in a clean plastic 5 gallon bucket. I'm comparing thdse two results, and I get nearly the same chlorine demand. That's whether I have a fresh fill and new filter, or now after four days and a bather or two. So, my conclusion is there's something in the water itself that the chlorine is eating up. It's not the wood itself. So are those still just the tannins, even though I really can't see them? Except the scum ball is slightly stained. Or could I have something growing in there, and do I need to worry about how to resolve that? Second question: With a 450 gallon wooden tub, I am unable to both honor the 5 fluid ounces of 6% bleach per person-hour and keep the free-chlorine level under 3 ppm for that volume. Half that, just 2.5 fl oz, gives me 3 ppm. 5 fl oz would bring me to 6 ppm from zero. Am I be risking wood damage by the temporary spike in free chlorine well above the recommended 2 ppm before (or after?) soaking? In no way am I currently able to retain a free chlorine level above 1 ppm and below 2 ppm unless I live the rest of my hours by the tub. (I asked my wife but she thinks I should keep my day job ) Final question: How long can I let the tub go to zero free chlorine, and not worry? I test and dose it up as often as I can, but if I leave it with 3 ppm at the start of the work day, it goes to zero before I can get home. I am looking forward to getting the ionizer started up. I don't mind using chlorine, but at least that system works automatically. **1 "For the first few months of the life of a tub it will leach tannins into the water, and these wreak havoc with your water chemistry. They will essentially absorb any type of sanitizer that you put in the water, whether it's chlorine ions or metal ions, and early in the life of the tub the tannins can literally overwhelm the latter."