pools4dummies

Hey, thanks for the bump!! Yeah, trailing spouse syndrome strikes again. Now I get to learn pool4dummies. Well, actually my numbers aren't 'too bad'....just the CYA is off the chart, which has been an ongoing battle according to DH. FC & TC are a little low, but not bad, but again the CH is off the chart. Got good pH, good TA and salt levels are coming up (should bump up the FC & TC) since I bumped up the Aquarite. Actually put it into superchlorinate earlier in the day and now I need to figure out how to get it out of it via the RS unit. (not good for cell, I just learned) Just played with that and got nowhere. The Aquarite RS seems fairly intuitive, but I remain stumped thus far. More googling I guess. At least the pool still looks good. Ongoing battle too because we are getting SO much rain....N TX!! This is almost as bad as trying to figure out a computer problem. Time for wine. And, you are the second person suggesting troublefree....I registered there yesterday, but haven't had time to visit yet today. Thank you for the suggestion and when you learn all about SWG and water, HELP!!!!

You need to get your CYA tested. Goldline recommends 60-80 ppm and it really does help you maintain chlorine. I test a lot of pools and have found that FC between about 3-5 ppm seems to work very well in salt pools. Lower levels do need to be shocked but if you keep it between 3-5 ppm and keep the CYA between 60-80 and make sure to keep the pH in line the chances are you will never need to shock your pool. If you do then don't use the superchlorinate setting, It shortens cell life. You will shock much more effectively by adding liquid chlorine. You do not have a bromine system so ignore the bromine readings in your test kit. The same test is used for both chlorine and bromine but the bromine numbers are higher. Keep you salt level slightly on the high side and you will also prolong cell life. Between 3200-3500 ppm is good. The Aquachek Salt test strips are exremely accurate and easy to use. Just be sure to allow enough time for development, which can take up to 10 minutes. I have found that the following numbers are a good guide for salt pools based on my experiences, my customers experiences and the experiences of salt pool onwners on two other forums that I am active on. FC 3-5 ppm CC less than .5 ppm pH 7.6 (not lower, when it hits 7.8 it's time to put acid in to lower it back to 7.6) TA 60-90 ppm BEFORE stabilizer correction (this is lower than normally recommened but combined with the pH adjustments above it will help minimize your acid usage) CH 250-350 ppm to achieve water balance with the lower TA recommened above CYA 70-80 ppm Salt 3200-3500 ppm Borates 50 ppm (an optional addition that can really help reduce acid usage and also lessen your santizer demand considerably) I anm not going to go into all the chemical justificaton for why this works but these chemical levels really do optimize the performance of your SWG and are what I run in my own salt pool and have my cusotmers run. Ok, just read some more and maybe the reason our CH is SO high is because we have well water. We already use a sequestering agent because we had iron stains and did the whole ascorbic acid process and now use Metal Treatment every time we add water and also some each week as preventative. Should we use something different??? I am thinking that we are always going to have a difficult time with the CYA because of our water??? Or, is there something we can do besides emptying and refilling?? Seems like a catch 22 since we are refilling with the very water that is causing the problem. Confuzzled again!!

You need to get your CYA tested. Goldline recommends 60-80 ppm and it really does help you maintain chlorine. I test a lot of pools and have found that FC between about 3-5 ppm seems to work very well in salt pools. Lower levels do need to be shocked but if you keep it between 3-5 ppm and keep the CYA between 60-80 and make sure to keep the pH in line the chances are you will never need to shock your pool. If you do then don't use the superchlorinate setting, It shortens cell life. You will shock much more effectively by adding liquid chlorine. You do not have a bromine system so ignore the bromine readings in your test kit. The same test is used for both chlorine and bromine but the bromine numbers are higher. Keep you salt level slightly on the high side and you will also prolong cell life. Between 3200-3500 ppm is good. The Aquachek Salt test strips are exremely accurate and easy to use. Just be sure to allow enough time for development, which can take up to 10 minutes. I have found that the following numbers are a good guide for salt pools based on my experiences, my customers experiences and the experiences of salt pool onwners on two other forums that I am active on. FC 3-5 ppm CC less than .5 ppm pH 7.6 (not lower, when it hits 7.8 it's time to put acid in to lower it back to 7.6) TA 60-90 ppm BEFORE stabilizer correction (this is lower than normally recommened but combined with the pH adjustments above it will help minimize your acid usage) CH 250-350 ppm to achieve water balance with the lower TA recommened above CYA 70-80 ppm Salt 3200-3500 ppm Borates 50 ppm (an optional addition that can really help reduce acid usage and also lessen your santizer demand considerably) I anm not going to go into all the chemical justificaton for why this works but these chemical levels really do optimize the performance of your SWG and are what I run in my own salt pool and have my cusotmers run. Ok, figured CH had something to do with 'hardness' so now I know...Calcium Hardness Holy tamale! Something else to keep in balance. My strip tester said this was 1000, if accurate?? Another reading OFF the charts. Now what do I do to lower this one?? I need some tylenol.

You need to get your CYA tested. Goldline recommends 60-80 ppm and it really does help you maintain chlorine. I test a lot of pools and have found that FC between about 3-5 ppm seems to work very well in salt pools. Lower levels do need to be shocked but if you keep it between 3-5 ppm and keep the CYA between 60-80 and make sure to keep the pH in line the chances are you will never need to shock your pool. If you do then don't use the superchlorinate setting, It shortens cell life. You will shock much more effectively by adding liquid chlorine. You do not have a bromine system so ignore the bromine readings in your test kit. The same test is used for both chlorine and bromine but the bromine numbers are higher. Keep you salt level slightly on the high side and you will also prolong cell life. Between 3200-3500 ppm is good. The Aquachek Salt test strips are exremely accurate and easy to use. Just be sure to allow enough time for development, which can take up to 10 minutes. I have found that the following numbers are a good guide for salt pools based on my experiences, my customers experiences and the experiences of salt pool onwners on two other forums that I am active on. FC 3-5 ppm CC less than .5 ppm pH 7.6 (not lower, when it hits 7.8 it's time to put acid in to lower it back to 7.6) TA 60-90 ppm BEFORE stabilizer correction (this is lower than normally recommened but combined with the pH adjustments above it will help minimize your acid usage) CH 250-350 ppm to achieve water balance with the lower TA recommened above CYA 70-80 ppm Salt 3200-3500 ppm Borates 50 ppm (an optional addition that can really help reduce acid usage and also lessen your santizer demand considerably) I anm not going to go into all the chemical justificaton for why this works but these chemical levels really do optimize the performance of your SWG and are what I run in my own salt pool and have my cusotmers run.

You need to get your CYA tested. Goldline recommends 60-80 ppm and it really does help you maintain chlorine. I test a lot of pools and have found that FC between about 3-5 ppm seems to work very well in salt pools. Lower levels do need to be shocked but if you keep it between 3-5 ppm and keep the CYA between 60-80 and make sure to keep the pH in line the chances are you will never need to shock your pool. If you do then don't use the superchlorinate setting, It shortens cell life. You will shock much more effectively by adding liquid chlorine. You do not have a bromine system so ignore the bromine readings in your test kit. The same test is used for both chlorine and bromine but the bromine numbers are higher. Keep you salt level slightly on the high side and you will also prolong cell life. Between 3200-3500 ppm is good. The Aquachek Salt test strips are exremely accurate and easy to use. Just be sure to allow enough time for development, which can take up to 10 minutes. I have found that the following numbers are a good guide for salt pools based on my experiences, my customers experiences and the experiences of salt pool onwners on two other forums that I am active on. FC 3-5 ppm CC less than .5 ppm pH 7.6 (not lower, when it hits 7.8 it's time to put acid in to lower it back to 7.6) TA 60-90 ppm BEFORE stabilizer correction (this is lower than normally recommened but combined with the pH adjustments above it will help minimize your acid usage) CH 250-350 ppm to achieve water balance with the lower TA recommened above CYA 70-80 ppm Salt 3200-3500 ppm Borates 50 ppm (an optional addition that can really help reduce acid usage and also lessen your santizer demand considerably) I anm not going to go into all the chemical justificaton for why this works but these chemical levels really do optimize the performance of your SWG and are what I run in my own salt pool and have my cusotmers run. Thank you so much for your reply. VERY helpful. So, looks like the FC is just a tad low so maybe I don't need to add chlorine afterall?? If/when I do need to add chlorine, can I use bleach? And, based on my strip test, CYA is 300....YIKES!! What do I use to lower the CYA? What is CH?? How do I adjust CH? And, avoid superchlorinating as it shortens cell life. I will definitely purchase some of the Aquachek salt strips. Are there test kits for borates?? Sorry for all of the questions, but sure do appreciate all of your help.

This is kinda sad I am the only one replying to my posts.

Well, since my first post, I have done some 'googling' and I think I may have solved the low Cl problem. I put my system into 'Superchlorinate' mode for 24 hrs. I am still perplexed with seemingly conflicting information. Inside my Aquarite box, it states that ideal Cl range is around 1ppm. And yet my test kit (Taylor) says ideal FC 2-4ppm, Br 4-6ppm So still confused. Can someone tell me what is ideal Cl for SWG?? Thanks Just chatted with hubby. He said not necessary to superchlorinate. He had me bump up Aquarite 5% and then re-test after sufficient time.

Hubby out of town so I get to be the 'cabana boy/girl'. We have SWG, 16K gallon pool. Tested the water yesterday and pH was HIGH and TA HIGH. So added muratic acid yesterday and then we had 3" rain. Aquarite says NaCL is 2800. Just tested again today and here are the numbers: FC .5ppm TC .5ppm CC 0ppm pH 7.5 TA 130 BR 1ppm Will adding NaCL resolve the CL issues?? My test kit does not test CYA, just have strips. Thank you in advance for advice.