redbird280

Final closure to this drama: bad start windings inside the motor. New pump assy installed this weekend and all is running beautifully again. Old motor is not realistically rebuildable, the two places nearest me had (a) minimum $500 rewinding charge (new assy was just over $330 with shipping and tax), or (b) could not even look at it for 2 months. Thanks for your advice, gents. Despite this being a PITA I really did learn a fair amount about how this setup works.

The red wire is one of the connections to the start cap. The motor will start in low, but make that buzzing racket and shut off. I can engage the high-speed and it will turn on and run smooth as a kitten's purr. Coming back down from high = buzzzzz/stop (as video). I think the centrifugal start switch is shorting, i.e., not throwing open, or somehow not open "enough," at low speed. The contacts are burned pretty bad. I may try to clean them down and reassemble. But I found the p/n for the switch and governor and can also order them new if needed; I just don't want to wait another week before trying "something." I really wish I could bench test this motor... I will update if this solves the issue.

MOV_20231030_1819040.mp4 In the attached video, the pump is running on high speed at the start. I then turn off the high speed, and you can hear the racket it makes for a second or 2, then cuts off. The pump assy is now out of the spa. It was an interesting endeavor. The motor does have a centrifugal switch assembly, but I'm not having any luck finding parts online. Everyone wants to sell a whole motor.

I'm actually half leaning this direction anyway, just to be able to put something in and get it going. Down here in Houston we don't have many hot-tubbable days and this is the first birthday of mine in 17 years I am not in it! LOL. The only thing stopping me is I'm a hopeless skinflint and not knowing "for sure" that a new pump/motor combo will do the trick. I appreciate your feedback and will update this post when I have news to share.

The pump is actually turning for a second or two on low, it is pushing water, it just makes a racket the whole time and then shuts off. Not nearly the same level of racket on high now with the new run cap in. I haven't had time to futz with it the past week, hopefully I'll be able to deal with draining the tub and pulling the motor this weekend. If I can find a shop nearby to look at it for reasonable $ I'll take it there, otherwise I'll "see what I can see" and let you know the results. Thanks again Canadian.

Thank you, Canadian. The voltage out was reading 254-264 spiking to 285 when the motor was initially starting (maybe my cheap meter not being accurate) but it was consistently receiving that voltage range even when it was shutting down on low. I pulled the run cap out and tested and it was bad. I replaced it and it runs smoothly in high speed (it was actually running a lot more roughly before on high, noticeably absent now with the new run cap in), but the issue persists on low. I read elsewhere that older motors like mine may have centrifugal switches with contacts for low and high speed, and symptoms of failing resemble what I'm experiencing. My pump/motor is a Sta-Rite Durajet. Anyone have experience with that, is it repairable, or am I looking for a new motor? After 17 yrs am I counting my blessings it lasted this long?

I have a 2006 Great Lakes Sunlighter. The current issue is that when it tries to run in low speed/circulate mode, it runs for 1-2 seconds and then stops. It will try restarting on its own again about a minute later, and again stop after a second or 2. The display indicates no error code, although it does display "--" because it is not reading a temperature (normal for when the tub first "boots up"). I can press the jets button, and it will kick on high speed and run fine for several minutes, and the temperature will display fine. If I press the jets button again to drop to circulate mode, it will shut off shortly after. It has a new display panel that I've just installed. The old one got moisture underneath it and was no longer legible, so I replaced it early this month. It was running when I shut it down for the summer, and this week is the first time I've tried running it since June. I thought it might be a motor start cap issue, so I replaced that today, with no change. Any thoughts on next steps?