Costas
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Posts posted by Costas
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I soldered the new hi-limit probe, but the red LED on the board still on. The only cause of it is faulty pressure switch. My M-pack has a lain heater which goes around the box. There's no visual pressure switch. I asked the gecko tech about location - useless, sent me to talk to Lain. Anyone knows where's might be?
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Finally I've got the response from Gecko. As anticipated, the only option is to change the board. I contacted Australian store and for $110 they sent me hi-limit sensor which I need. Now I have to solder it to the board. Anyone can point me to the tutorial how to disconnect and take out the board from the pack? As I understand, I have to solder from opposite site.
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I don't even need to clip away the plastic. The band just fall out of it. Half of this foam band on another site which goes towards the heater is broke. Do you think this sensor still works? Does it worth to solder it or try to find a new one?
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Thank you CanadianSpaTech for your help. Looks like the problem is in hi-limit sensor disconnected from the board. The foam tip of it was so deteriorated, so just fall off. This is the old style which I have to solder to the board 9200-100181. Gecko doesn't sell them anymore. They are saying that I have to change the board and get new one 9200-100318. Is anyone had an idea where can I get mine? They're still out there, 6 has wholesaler in Australia but doesn't deal with the public.
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Looks like it was clicking the switch of the circulation pump.
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I got my top display back to work. 3 dots and red LED are on as soon as I turn the power on. This is how my hi-limit sensor looks like. I'm not sure if I can lift it up from the heater without damaging it. While I was playing with it I found out that it's not securely connected to the board. When I press on it towards the board I hear the click, when I remove my finger - it clicks again. Maybe this is the problem?
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Please disregard previous post, found them.
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Incoming power is OK. Where are the fuses located? I need the one which related to P3 auxiliary control.
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Thank you very much. To do all this I have to get the top display working first. So far no luck, completely dead. I live in King city (hwy#400).
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These are the pics without the black cover. To take it out I had to remove few connectors. When I connected them back my display stopped working. Doesn't show anything, so I cannot proceed further till I figure out how to revive it. Also I thought the temp probe is the one which goes into the pipe of the tub body. Am I wrong?
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Hello everyone. I have 2004 Artesian Piper Glen. Few years ago, I’ve got three dots error which was fixed with the new flow sensor. Now the problem came back. I tried to change the sensor again, but it didn’t work. Even I bypass the sensor connecting 2 contacts together, 3 dots are still there. I can hear the heater is working with no call for heat on display. When I reset the hydro, the circulation pump starts working and the heater goes nonstop until the temperature in the tab reaches the maximum (around 41.5C). Then the heater shuts off and the temperature goes down until I reset the breaker again. All this time 3 dots are flashing and red led displayed. According to SC-CF&SC-MP service manual my next step should be a replacement of the hi-limit temp sensor. My probe connector has 4 pins although just 2 wires. All the sensors for sale out there have 2 female pin for 2 wires. So I have to pull the sensor out to find out exact specification. Maybe someone knows what sensor I need? How exactly can I get it out? Anything to unscrew? Should I drain the water before?
Hi-limit temperature probe replacement
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Great, thanks. Looks like my spa doesn't have the pressure switch, only flow switch. That was the first thing I changed before looking further to hi-limit sensor. Didn't help. I bypassed flow switch connecting black and red wires, but red light and 3 dots flashing was still on for a few days. This morning i checked: the LED light was on and 3 dot stopped flashing, the tub was heating up over the set temperature and the flow was extremely slow. The flow switch stays after the heater so it was just half full with water and mostly with hot steam with no contacts working. Although 3 dots didn't flash. I reset the pump: flow switch is full of water now, working but 3 dots are on and heater is off (the sign call for heat is on). The tub lives its own life, sporadically heating on and off. I'm out of any ideas what to do.