Stratos

Yep, that was exactly the problem--you nailed it. The circ pump runs nearly silent now as well, whereas before it was louder and I'd assumed that was because I had the spa guts exposed. Surprised the new board came preconfigured for a 240volt circ pump. While I was in there I installed the missing ozone unit as well. Thanks again for your help, this was driving me nuts! You're a hero.

It was wired to the red AC, so I moved it to the white AC. Once the temp is above freezing I'll fill the tub and test. Would there be damage to the pump for being wired to the red AC? I was feeling what I thought was a reasonably good flow but its tough to tell whats strong vs weak in that context.

Good eyes. At a loss for what might be causing the flow issue, I guessed that the slice might be stuck down since, when I raised or lowered the handle, it felt stiff. I cut it open but the gate seemed firmly attached to the handle. Trying again with hot sheet EL8000 55064-01_97_A.pdf

I've included images of the board, the current dipswitch config, hot sheet and the plumbing. The dipswitch settings are what I used on the original board but I've tried many different combinations based on the different el8000 hot sheets I've seen. I've also tried setting config via the panel rather than the dipswitch. The flow issues seems unaffected by the different settings. I determined that the el8000 was an appropriate replacement based on the details shown here: https://www.pool-n-spa.com/Circuit-Boards/Hot-Tub-Circuit-Boards/Balboa-53232-Circuit-Board-MS8000R1-x-Alt-Replacement-Master-Spas EL8000 55064-01_97_A.pdf

Hi all, I've been troubleshooting this issue for over a month now to no avail. The problem started when I noticed the hot tub (Masterspa ls850) was not heating. On examining the circuit board (ms8000r1a 53232) I noticed that one of the components on the board had clearly burnt out. I replaced the board with a new one (balboa el8000m3 53858) as well as a new heater (both old and new heaters are 5.5kw 240V with M7 sensors). After replacement, I began getting errors indicating flow, dry and HFL. I removed the filters, but it did not resolve. I checked for airlock but only water came out of the bleed screws on the pump and the various joints I loosened. I'd also filled the tub directly via the circulation inlet. The inlet has strong suction when the circulation pump is active and I can feel strong flow at the outlet. I replaced the circulation pump with a similar model (1/15hp, 115 volt) but continued to have the same issues. I’ve used an inspection camera to examine the pipes from the inlet to the heater (all clear) and from the outlet. There are no perceivable obstructions. The only part of the plumbing I can’t completely examine is a small PVC loop where the ozone would be injected (ozone was removed). I've been unable to find documentation for the specific version of the el8000 I have, so I've tried various dip switch combinations but none seem to make a difference.