Vegas
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Posts posted by Vegas
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1 minute ago, Jay G said:
To be honest, usually bad water chemistry. But since your tub is so new..... maybe they got a bad batch?
What chemistry in particular?
water is tested at Leslie’s and my Taylor drop test kit
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On 2/2/2023 at 8:07 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:
List what external products and chemicals you add to the spas water. As for rubber in a spa you have 0-rings around the control valves on the top edge of the spa. O-rings sealing plumbing to pumps as well as to the heater tube. The heater tube gasket type O-rings can decay a little quicker and worth a check. O-rings/gaskets around jet bodies sealing the jet to the acrylic. Gate Valves or slice valves also carry a rubber plunger to shut off or isolate components from water like pumps or the heater for repair. What is the source of the water you are putting into the spa? Do you use a mineral stick or the @ease frog system?
Found it! O-rings were breaking down.
what could cause this?
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9 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
List what external products and chemicals you add to the spas water. As for rubber in a spa you have 0-rings around the control valves on the top edge of the spa. O-rings sealing plumbing to pumps as well as to the heater tube. The heater tube gasket type O-rings can decay a little quicker and worth a check. O-rings/gaskets around jet bodies sealing the jet to the acrylic. Gate Valves or slice valves also carry a rubber plunger to shut off or isolate components from water like pumps or the heater for repair. What is the source of the water you are putting into the spa? Do you use a mineral stick or the @ease frog system?
We use Las Vegas tap water
chemicals are:
Leslie’s Dry Acid, baking soda. as needed
leisure Time, chlorinating granules. leisure Time, nonchlorine shock.
spa perfect enzymes once a month.
we DID use a drop in mineral stick when we first purchased the tub but stopped
That’s it.
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More Pics of the filter
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6 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
The attachment is not available.
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1 minute ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
The attachment is not available.
Odd it shows on my end, it’s a video. Let me go take a few photos and post those
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I posted quite awhile back about black flakes in the tub. I was told re-run ahh-some through it again. Well I have done that as well as 2 other purge products and have in total drained and refilled 6 times. And super chlorinated once just in case it was mold.
Here is the background: purchased tub in 2020 NEW. Black flakes started appearing around the water line and in the filters right after a pump went out and we had it replaced under warranty. This is when I started purging and refilling thinking it was either mold or some sort of contamination with the pump. Also at this time we had switched the Bromine ( with a floater )
after all my attempts at to fix the issue the dealer agreed to replace the pump once again, as well as the circulation pump as it was leaking. They also asked us to switch back to chlorine which, I did so. Well after a week with the new pump and fresh water the black flakes are back.
I believe they are rubber degrading or some sort of coating used internally due to the fact you can’t really catch them. When you go to wipe it off they smudge like ink.
as far as balancing the tub I have always used a Taylor Drop test kit AND take sample to my local Leslie’s. Tub also has an ozone.
I have added a short video of the filter for reference.
I really appreciate any help you all can offer me!!
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Thank you
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37 minutes ago, dashmer said:
Your photo looks like biofilm that has come out of your plumbing. If water was sitting in the tub for a while when it was being repaired could totally generate biofilm. If I were you, I would purge the tub with Ahhsome.
if you go back and read my post I’ve already done that
Furthermore the tub didn’t sit with water in it the pump was replaced immediately
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One of our tubs pumps went out and the dealer replaced the pump under warranty. A few weeks go by and I started Black dots at the waterline on the shell. Pull the filters same thing. When trying to wipe off this black it would just smudge and I would have to use a good amount of pressure to wipe it off the shell.
Figured it was some sort of contamination I dump the water and refilled. Almost immediately the black spots reappeared but even worse on the filters. I purged with ahh-some. Bleached the entire shell and cover, rinsed very well, Refilled and super chlorinated the water. Allowed the water to circulate for 45 minutes at 20+ ppm then dumped the water again and put in brand new filters. I balanced the water and went back to chlorine as I never had these sort of issue with it.
I also hit it with an enzyme and MPS ( 2ounces ) after I balanced.
Now each morning I come out I find a bit of yellow/orange slime on the shell. ( did not take a picture)
My suspicion is that the techs used a pump that was contaminated and allowed mold to form. But I also have zero experience with mold so I cannot confirm this is the issue.
photo of water below is from when it was being Super chlorinated. Filter picture is after I allowed them to dry out in the sun.
Any thoughts?
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1 hour ago, waterbear said:
Other than the fact that your bromine is a bit high these numbers look good for a bromine spa. MPS is acidic so it will deplete TA so when it drops below 50 ppm use baking soda to bring it up. 50 to 70 ppm is a sweet spot for most spas.
High sanitizer levels can cause DPD tests to bleach out and your pool store is using either testing discs or strips with meter to give you results like that. IF your Taylor kit is a k-2006 (FAS-DPD testing for bromine or chlorine ) then bleach out is not really a problem unless your bromine is really through the roof and I would trust it over the pool store test. IF it's a K-2005 (DPD testing) then it can and will bleach out at moderately high sanitizer levels and indicate that your bromine (or chlorine) is much lower than it actually is. This can affect pH and TA readings since high sanitizer will cause inaccurate pH readings (pH will seem to be much higher than it actually is because the pH indicator, phenol red, is converted into bromophenol red or chlorophenol red both of which have the same color changes as phenol red but at a much lower pH range and the purple red color that indicates a pH of 8.2 or higher with phenol red indicate a pH of 6.7 or higher with chlororphenol red or 6.8 or higher with bromophenol red. High sanitizer can also bleach out the indicators used for TA testing leading to off resuts, particularly with colormetric tests (read with a meter) vs titration tests (such as Taylor's).
Thank you very much! That was a lot of information I did not know
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The reading I posted is directly from Leslies Pool store. I was doubting my Taylor drop test key due to the high bromine so I had them test.
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I Recently started using bromine in my tub and I’m having an issue keeping the Alkalinity in range between 80-120ppm.
This is my second fill with Bromine after using Chlorine for a year and a half. I never had this issue when using Chlorine.
Little background on the tub. 400 gallon,city water, ozone, circulation pump.
Fresh fill with new filters, bromine salt to build the base, 2 oz MPS, 2 bromine tabs in floater.
procedure was after the Water fill. I used dry acid to bring down the pH to 7.6. ( 4 ounces in total ) I then added the bromine salt, the MPS, and the floater. Ph then shot up to over 8.0 added another 3 ounces and then decided to take in a water sample to the pool store
currently the reading are:
8.0 ph, 62 Alk, Calcium 158, Bromine is 8.42
Now I’ve read in this form that keeping alkalinity between 50 to 60 is not a problem. However of course everything were taught says the alkalinity should stay between 80 and 120.
what’s your thoughts on my next steps bring the pH down and not worry about the alkalinity? or fight the alkalinity and pH to get them in traditional ranges?
Really need help
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Ph was never low always 7.6-7.8
Sanitizer always in range 2-5ppm