Freezer

Hello Everyone! Another update....I've noticed that it SLOWLY heats up. This is a 4K element system and it took almost 48hrs to hear from 63-93 deg. Outdoor temp was above 70 deg. Any thoughts?

UPDATE: So, I went ahead and replaced the other 3-4 film capacitors like the ones listed earlier and start looking around to "hopefully" find that one burnt component or something but, didn't see anything. I tested the FT3014 transformer while it was still connected. Just a general test to see if I had any suspious readings. Using my Fluke on Ohms, I tested all terminals and some had a response (obviously not accurate since it's still attached) but there are a couple that look like that "should" be a winding but, did not report any reading/open. Hmm...Any thoughts? I will probably remove it and check it correctly to verify.

I wish I had enough time I'd just draw one up just for spite! lol

BTW, anyone know where I can find a schematic for this board? I've googled ABUNCH!!!

Well....I'm BACK!! The Spa has worked PERFECTLY until now. And as expected since it's a 2001 model I was just waiting for something to happen. It stopped heating. -> While it was still attached, I tested the temp probe which "appears" to be good. Ohms tested between all 3 pins and the only reading was 8.8 ohms between Green and Black which I am reading is correct'ish. Probe terminals where cleaned. -> New heating element from, in the beginning I broke a terminal off (DUH). Testing the right element post to to GRD trips the GFCI breaker (good), and between the left element post to to GRD reads 120V. Testing between both element posts 0.0 BUT...it "should" have been in heating mode but, I can't remember it was or not. -> No noticeable issues (burnt, broken, damaged) items. -> Fuses are all good. -> Shutdown, rebooted, kicked, cussed and still NOTTA. So...I guess if I wanted to remove all all the "common" culprits and test them, I could BUT...thought I'd send an Hail Marry to see if one of you smart peeps had any good ideas or some free money, say appx $500-600 as a early Christmas present? And I guess my screen name is ironically PERFECT for this post. @#$@!!!

@Orange JoeNot sure where you are on this project but, 3 recommendations: 1) There are not many that will take the time to actually figure out what the problem is. I did my own testing and found that it was a $1.00 capacitor. 2) Balboa makes a remove/replace controller and you would need to compare and make sure you pick the correct controller for your setup. 3) Locate a replace circuit board which MIGHT be as much as replacing the entire controller. Personally, I would locate someone who knows how to properly do circuit board level testing and repair what you have. Good Luck.

@cranbizUPDATE: So, we are seeing eye-to-eye! I reflow and cleaned up my repair and found that 2 of the many film capacitors didn't look right on the meter so "out with the old and in with the new" and BAM! everything is operational. Apparently, the first failure must have been the capacitor then when I reset the breaker and repowered that's when the Line-1 connector popped! Thank goodness that was it. Replacement board or entire controller $500-600 OR 2 pieces from a Amazon 100 pcs Capacitor kit for $15...FIXED!!! On another note, does anyone have any of these boards that they do not want?

2001 PDC Spa with PROPAK SSPA-A-P121-P211 controller board troubleshooting. Story: Came home to find my GFIC breaker “kicked”. Hmm…didn’t see anything wrong so, I unplugged the motor (this is a 2001 & it only has one motor for the entire system). Reset the breaker (220V setup). Topside (TSC-18) looked normal with the pressure alarm (3 decimals). So, turned it off, plugged the motor back in, flipped the breaker and Voila! Everything worked for about 5 seconds and POP!!! Looking the provided pictures you will see that the Line#1 on the back of the circuit board popped (circled in Yellow). Also, there appears to be an circuit break within the (red circle) area. This is a PROPAK SSPA-A-P121-P211-O1-LS-H4.0-AMP-PPD controller.