Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

HTinIndiana's Achievements

Junior Member

Junior Member (2/5)



  1. One of my old elements when tested with a probe on a terminal( element removed from tube housing) and the other probe to the element reads 0.00 when multi locations are checked. I did find one place where I touch the element and get an ohm reading of 5 and change. if put the element in the tube and check one terminal and the exterior of the tube it reads 0.00. Is this a good or bad element?
  2. Sounds like to board is good and the issue is either in the heater element or the GFCI. When you installed the element did you ensure it was not touching the side walls of the heater tube? - I actually replaced the unit as a whole (control pack/heater factory mounted) unit so I didn’t even think to check it before mounting. I have two older heat elements in my parts pile. One checks out when I put the ohm meter on it. I am going to try and swap the elements/heat tube out today if I can get a minute. Crossing fingers that this works. I really don’t think it’s the breaker now after seeing .60 amps on the clamp meter.
  3. With the heater disconnected do you get 240 off the circuit board at the heater plug? - yes, 240v.
  4. It trips even when the pump is unplugged? - yes, I can run it all day long with circ pump, pump 1(cheap Chinese pump) and light plugged in as long at the heater is not connected. Once you connect the heater it trips in plus /minus 24 seconds and only shows .6 amp draw (with pump 1 unplugged). if it warms up tomorrow, I may swap out heating elements with one of my old ones.
  5. Just a thought but if the heat element is touching the stainless tube would that create a short?
  6. So I rechecked amperage today when it tripped. It hit .6. Only the circ pump running The heater ohms at 12 when checked. for fun I took the old heater element and tested it for short. It read 0 when checked but there was a spot on the element that was abraided and when I put probes there the meter read 5 and change. im beginning to think it’s the heater.
  7. trying to see if I can get the amp meter dialed in to show a little more accuracy in reading.
  8. I had a few minutes this evening with the clamp on ammeter. Check both hot wires coming off the breaker with the heater fully connected. Still tripping after the +\- 24 seconds. The meter showed 40 amps when turned on and then hit 50 after the 24 second mark and tripped the breaker. I was able to disconnect the leads from the heater and verify 240 V on the leads. hope to have a little more daylight this weekend.
  9. A coworker is loaning me his ammeter to check amp draw at breaker before tripping. I am finding pump1=12 amps, circ pump =.75 amps and heater at 25 amps. That’s way less than 50 amps of breaker capacity. Disconnect the heater and test voltage from each leg to ground immediately after power-up and again after 30 seconds. If it has a delay on power to one leg, it's the heater. You can test the heater with an ohm meter, testing either heater terminal to the heater ground while disconnected. Anything other than infinity (no reading) is a bad heater. ——-so each leg should read 120, correct? Resistance- Will check even though brand new heater/panel what’s frustrating is that it ran fine for almost a day .
  10. Salma- I replaced the controller with the same one I had before. No new or different equipment. It was working well before with the 50 AMP breaker.
  11. Today I started over. - verified 240v at breaker and disconnect - removed 240 power from spa panel. Verified 240v and dis not trip breaker - removed all pumps from controller and disconnected heater. No tripping of breaker when powered - hooked up circ pump. Worked great. Added pump 1(jets) no issue -turned down temp setting to below water temp. Turned power off and reconnected heater power. It trips 20 second after heater being connected and heat is not being called for. breaker??
  12. I just tried that with the circ pump only and it trips. before I replaced the entire panel the circ pump was running fine. I have a GFCI 50 amp double pole in the main panel in the basement that feeds a disconnect about 8’ from the spa. The the disconnect feeds the spa. if I kill the disconnect, the breaker doesn’t trip. Wires all look good and all are tight. this heat and circ pump ran from 3:00 pm yesterday until mid morning today without issue. This is driving me nuts.
  13. Need some more help. Couldn’t find relays so I ended up replacing the entire control panel and heater. Finished yesterday afternoon, was at 94 degrees when I went to bed. just checked this morning and temp was at 99 but GFCI breaker inside electrical panel was tripped. disconnected all pumps and reset breaker. Showed a FLOW code. Tripped after about 30 seconds with nothing running i put in a clean filter yesterday. I pulled the filter this morning after Flow code and reset break again. Tripped after 24 seconds. help, please!
  14. Found the troubleshooting guide for the panel online. -heater element is ready just over 10 Ohm’s when disconnected from power - when I checked the points 9 & 11 mentioned in the guide(see below) I am getting like .6 volts - I tested the k10 relay and the same getting .6 volts - k1 relay tested sales as k10 Is there a way to bypass this relay to see if it will heat up to confirm the relay is bad? This manual says that the relay has to be soldered in. I have never soldered electronics, only plumbing. Is it hard to do? Should I try it or replace the board?
  15. Thanks for reply. Will check in the daylight. No excess on breaker when scanned with thermal camera. Haven’t checked for loose wire on breaker. I isolated (unplugged) each item one at time. The Aux had no bearing either way but will unplug tomorrow. on the new heating element, do I just check the resistance to see if it’s good?
  • Create New...