6010fd12
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Posts posted by 6010fd12
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42 minutes ago, ratchett said:
The metal surface is essentially electroplated onto the plastic.
I'll check when I get home but are you sure it's metal electroplated onto plastic? The only reason why I ask is because in the second picture you can see that there are little tabs that are bent inwards to "hug" the plastic body which leads me to believe that it's just some type of sheet metal that has a electroplated finish on it. I think this makes the most sense because correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe a chrome finish by itself will rust.
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On 8/22/2022 at 8:26 PM, Mike223 said:
I have repaired several at that end. Two Philips head screws gets the back off and then you need to install a new 73995 pressure switch with some fresh Teflon tape or equivalent. Done several this way and with the current component shortage it might be the only way to go. It’s a tight squeeze back there and I have had good success with needle nose pliers.
I honestly though you were crazy for replacing the switch with a new one where I though it just needed a new coat of Teflon tape so I decided to apply some and retread in the old switch and just when I was about all the way in the threads sheered from the switch. Luckily I had a screw out, screw extractor set so I was able to unthread the broken part out but lesson learned. Always buy a new switch.
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Hi, is there a replacment part for this JJ2R1631 jet faceplate?
I'm specifically only looking for the chrome cover that goes on the jet, the jet itself is fine.
If it's not avaliable then what can I do to fix the rust?
I know the cause of the rust was due to too high of chlorine concentration
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I completely forgot about this post but I guess now is as good of a time as any to reply in case someone else wants to do this. I actually ended up stuffing it with the cheapest stone rockwool insulation that I could find at menards. Specifically this one. Out of the 7 or so pads that were in the package I ended up using around 5 and a half to fill both sides of the tub. I also ripped out all the rotted out wood and glued new parts of the frame in it's place. Hope that helps someone.
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Just replaced all the jets on my 2013 jetsetter and now I want to replace the insulation that I had to rip off. I still have the old foam but most of it is in smaller pieces so it would be a little difficult to reuse. I want to avoid using spray on foam (except for the bottom of the tub that I took a chunk out of) just in case if I ever have to go in again to make a repair.
Would using fiberglass insulation be a good alternative to stuff in there? Any ideas?
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Also while I have this topic open any tips for getting stains out the inside of the cover? I'm guessing same procedure as mentioned above or slightly less harsh chemicals?
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1 hour ago, Cusser said:
If you try this: Don't mix, danger !!!! One at a time, rinse in between.
Yup, you should never mix chemicals that you don't know what the resulting reaction will be. Sorry I probably worded that wrong. I ment if the muriatic acid didn't work I would try the bleach.
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55 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:
First go-to is a magic eraser. If that doesn't work, try ascorbic acid (vitamin c tablets) or muriatic acid water (50/50), next try bleach water (1/2 cup/gallon). If those don't work let us know.
Gotcha. I'll give tho a try in the morning. How long do I leave it it soak in the muriatic acid and bleach if I have to take that route?
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2013 Jetsetter. I winterized the tub with RV antifreeze to keep it safe before I moved and now when I cleaned off the antifreeze that was mostly dried it has left a stain. Is there anyway to remove this stain?
Soak in Vinegar? Bleach? Fiberglass stain remover?
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1 hour ago, Cusser said:
I agree that there's been or still has a leak, and that calcium carbonate has deposited from the water. Vinegar-soaked rags would be my choice to try to remove the deposit, but the leak still may need addressing.
Is there a rebuild kit I can purchase for this heater?
Edit: Found it. However the reviews mentioned that a small leak did persist after replacing them but I'm going to give it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPHF49G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.spadepot.com/gasket-Kit-4-Watkins-Hot-Spring-Double-Barrel-Heater-P3111
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Bump. Any idea on what the best method to clean this stuff out is?
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2013 Jetsetter. Doing some maintenance on it by replacing tubing, ozonator, etc and noticed that there is a bunch of corrosion on the heater.
Will this effect the performance any? Should I clean it off/leave it be? If I should remove it what's the best way?
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On 6/14/2022 at 3:43 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:
Thank you. I just found this cheaper one that says it fits the serial number of my tub
https://backyardplus.com/parts/72727-byp-elbow-3-4in-x-3-4in-barbed-with-1-4in-barbed-nipple/
On 6/14/2022 at 3:14 PM, ratchett said:That said, search around online for Hotspring PN 72602 - that's the ozonator kit with the injector. I see one on ebay right now for $189 - new open box supposedly, but who knows if that's actually a new unit (you'll need to look at the pictures and take a chance if you want).
As luck may have it, I just recently got time to inspect the spa to figure out all the items and parts that I need to replace and while I was looking for a jumper wireto convert from 220v to 110v) in the bag of supplies the previous owner of the tub gave to me I found a brand new ozonator! I guess the previous owner know about it going out and purchased a new one but never got around to installing it. It looks brand new but I haven't tried out if it works or not. Could be a dud. Not getting my hopes up just yet 😁
I do have another question though. What exactly is this wire? It's in the suction side of the tub. The wire is cut at both ends. Maybe it was an led light? Zone 2 is missing on the board so that's the only thing I can think of.
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14 hours ago, ratchett said:
The Freshwater III Ozone system produces a higher output of ozone (more ppm), it's also built to handle a 3+ year lifespan running continuously with your jetsetter's circulation pump.
Many aftermarket ozonators have a lower ozone output and built to work with the standard mid-grade hot tub which runs the ozonator twice a day for an hour or two with the filter cycle (NOT running 24/7). So they have a shorter lifespan in hour count, but since it's only running for 2-4 hours a day, it lasts a while.
Yes there are cheaper ozonators on the market, but they will likely burn out in half the time so are you really saving all that much?
If it were me, I would spend the money on the Freshwater III system but I'm also a huge fan of ozonators in a hot tub - because ozone burns off organic contaminants through oxidation and is such a strong oxidizer that it reacts with excess free chlorine. This means you can chlorine shock after use and not have to soak in bleach the next day, because the ozone will burn off the chloramines and most of the chlorine overnight.
Also note - I believe the Freshwater III ozone kit includes a replacement mazzei injector valve (the item which actually sucks the air and ozone into the water as it passes through the injector part) - be sure to replace that part even if yours looks perfectly fine - they are known to leak over time so they should be replaced at the same time as the ozonator module itself.Gotcha. I was just trying to go aftermarket to save a little on cost but I guess there is no way around that. Do you know what the cheapest place to buy a Freshwater III system would be? Trying to find the best deal. Either way I have to replace it since the nozzle broke off when I was trying to remove the tube from it.
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I have a 2013 Jetsetter that I purchased used and want to preform some maintenance on it. Part of the fitting that connect to the ozonator broke off when I tried to remove it and now is the perfect time for me to replace it. However, I don't really want to pay ~$300 for a direct replacement Freshwater III Ozone System if I can avoid it. I doubt there is a cheaper listing than the $258 that amazon has it listed for so my question is:
Is there a cheap aftermarket replacement ozone system that is compatible with my model?
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If this does not beong here please delete it. I know it's not a "hot tub" but there are really no big communities for whirlpool tubs.
I bought (what I believe to be) a Neptune whirlpool tub used but I can not find a model number anywhere on the tub only some type of sticker.
It came with some damage to what I believe is an air line fitting at the bottom on the tub and I wanted to know if someone could ID this part for me. Also would this be an easy fix?
Also could someone tell me if this tub uses a modern pipe design where the pvc is bent to allow water to drain completely after the tub is drained?
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I have a 2013 HotSprings Jetsetter and while winterizing it I managed to accidentally break 2 things.
1) The barbed fitting on the Freshwater III ozone generator
2) The male end of a pvc pipe
Can these 2 thing be replaced? If so where can I purchase them? I know the pvc pipe shouldn't be too difficult to replace but I don't know if I have to replace the whole ozone generator or not to fix that.
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Ok, you made me second guess myself so I went back disconnected all the lines and blew them ALL out. I can confidently look you in the eyes right now and tell you straight up there is ABSOLUTELY ZERO CHANCE anything is getting frozen in that tub. However while disconnecting all those lines the fragile plastic broke on 2 parts (pics included). I know that 90 degree elbo shouldn't be too expensive/hard to find and replace but the barb fitting on the Freshwater III ozone system has me really concerned. I'm worried I might have to replace the whole unit in order to replace that barb fitting. Any ideas?
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12 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Did you remove the pump return suction covers in the foot well
I only removed the intake line of the recirculation pump and blew there and also both sides of the main pump. Wouldn't the antifreeze cover all the other spots that were missed?
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47 minutes ago, ratchett said:
Ohh that's likely an overflow runoff drain line for the speakers or something (so if water splashes into the speakers, water would flow out the bottom through that drain line and out of the tub).
Gotcha, thank you. I doubt this is the case but it would be really funny if the original owner sold it because what they thought was a leak was just the overflow.
50 minutes ago, ratchett said:Are you sure you want to winterize?
Sadly at this point I don't have any choice. Currently it's sitting in the garage of a relatives house since I don't have room for it not to mention that there no 220v outlet (I know it can be wired to 110) and I don't have the permits needed to run it. I will be moving next year to a new house so it's only temporary and regardless I would like to fix the leak before I use it for good. We just had below freezing temps last night in Illinois which isn't the the most optimal weather to find water leaks in which is why I sadly have to winterize it. Not to mention I found 3 dead mice in the maintenance panel and some "strange padding"? In a corner of the tub which I have to go throught and clean up(see pic).
I followed the jetsetter manual on how to winterize: sucked up the residual water, blew out the return line, vacuumed all the jets and main and auxiliary drains and finally poured 1 gal of Prestone AF222(which I believe to be Propylene Glycol) in all jets and return lines just in case. Let me know if I missed anything.
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8 hours ago, ratchett said:
Great price for one of the best 3 Seaters in the industry. Although good luck digging out and fixing the leak! These suckers are full-foam insulated (awesome from an energy efficiency standpoint, sucks to dig out the plumbing when something leaks)
Hose? Do you mean the hose connection at the bottom of the spa? That's the drain line for draining the spa
I'm going to get the picture for you when I get home but in the meantime could you link me to a video or guide on how to winterize my specific tub? This my first time owning a hot tub and I have no clue how to proceed. I have a shop vac and 25 gal air compressor if that helps any.
Edit: here is the picture.
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Ok so I wanted to give you guys an update. I went with a different tub since the person giving it away was not responding to any messages. Found someone selling a 2013 Hot Springs Jetsetter with a small leak for $80 (7'x 5.5'). Grabbed a friend and rented a uhaul trailer to pick it up. I ended up making a sled with 4x8 sheet of coroplast from HD. It ended up being a one time use sled since I couldn't remove mounting points for the spa cover lifter since someone used Robertson screws and I didn't have the bit with me. This created a pressure point and caused a small hole in one part of the sled but the tub was not damaged. In this instance I think using the sled instead of pvc was a better method since part of the terrain was on a slope, however even though the manual says that the spa weighs 450lb empty, that fucker must have weighed at least 800lb because even with 2 people (myself included) we were not able to lift the spa with a dolly and switch over to lifting it by hand on to its side. We actually had to ask the homeowners for help with moving it and moving it with the sled, having to constantly take breaks every couple of pushes. Did it save money moving it myself? Without a doubt, ABSOLUTELY! Would I do that again? **** no, unless I had the same equipment that pros use.
On a side note, if anyone has a Jetsetter; can someone tell me what the hose at the bottom corner of the siding does?
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4 minutes ago, cranbiz said:
A spa sled would make pushing the spa in the truck much easier. Not sure if you can rent one anywhere and they are not cheap to buy. A Polypropylene sheet is basically what a spa sled is. Sturdy plastic like sheet with a handle and it's got low friction.
Then there is always the pipe roller system. Schedule 80 1" grey PVC pipe would easily do the job and is usually in stock at Lowes.
I already looked and sadly there isn't any place within a couple states away from me that sells them. Otherwise I would have rented one out in a heartbeat. I think using a car jack would assist in loading it into the truck.
Also are there any guides to building a diy sled? Or do you know any places that sell large sheets of Polypropylene? I was originally going to use those harbor freight furniture dollys but figured it wasn't a good idea on grass. Then I discovered the rolling and cartwheel method from a video on YouTube so if anything I will probably go that route.
8 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:Home Depot here in Canada rent long bed pick up trucks by the hour/day for pretty cheap. I have seen 7x7 spas tipped on their sides into pick ups and strapped down. Do I advise this...not publicly...lol. If you do please use 2" straps. Had one guy load an 8x8 and tied it down with skinny yellow rope. Asked him where he was taking it...North Bay...4 hours away. I gave him a 30/30 Warranty... 30 seconds or thirty feet which ever comes first and I started counting 29 seconds ago.
Then there's this guy...
Believe me, safety is my number one concern. I'm already concerned about driving with it on its side but I feel like if I go slow and tie it down with enough straps, I think it will work.
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45 minutes ago, cranbiz said:
While I echo the advice of one of our prestigious resident experts, There are ways of making this work.
You have to build a base to set the tub on, on top of the side rails if they are strong enough. If they are not strong enough, you need to find a trailer without sides and still build up a sturdy base because you need to elevate the tub over the tires and support the tub fully during transport. Transporting on end any distance is really not recommended.
With the current cost of lumber, hiring professional spa movers will be close to the cost of building the base and renting the trailer, not to mention the cost of beer and pizza for the 3 other guys you need to have help you move the tub.
Thank you for the input. This is definitely something to consider. There is another scenario I would like to ask about. Maybe this one would be safer and not as expensive since it's such a short distance. I was thinking of maybe renting out a uhaul 15' moving truck. It says on the website that the length is 7'2" which would either be a very tight squeeze or just enough to not fit but my concern is how I would lift it into the truck. As low as the truck sits and even with the added step that they give you I still feel like it would be a challenge to push it up there, even with an extra person or 2.
Edit: I think I just got a great idea. I can probably use a car jack to help with loading and unloading it into the truck
29 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Think you need to expand your trailer search and find a flat deck trailer. Good luck with the move and let us know if you have questions during the repair. If you have to tip the spa on it's side to get it in/out I have seen some folks use an old truck bed and tip the spa into the bed and push/slide it around to the front of the house/driveway. Let us know about your experience and maybe help the next person. Regards CSTThank you for the help and will do. I'll do my best to document the situation and reply back with my findings.
Where to find faceplates for Jetsetter jets
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
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Yup, just as I thought it's made of metal with a chrome coating. Would I be able to get a place to put a new chrome coating on it for cheap?