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DYI Help Needed

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  1. SOLVED - Update #2. Even though I was reluctant to blame the brand new pump, replacing it solved the problem. Thank you to those who offered input to diagnose and solve this problem.
  2. Update - Wired properly the Pr cycle finishes, the heater lamp goes on and a few moments later the low pump speed starts only to shut off within a minute or so of operation. Shouldn’t the heater be timed to come on after the pump is running on low speed? This 120v pump is plugged into a GFCI which has 120v idle, 114v after the heater starts and only 106v when the motor starts on low. These readings were at the GFCI but similar readings were obtained at the AMP connector to the PCB. The amps on the low speed leg at this connector were about 20 amps. Clearly there are voltage and current issues that are likely causing the motor’s thermal protection to trip. Is there a relay or other circuit in the Balboa controller that could cause the voltage and current deviations? Thinking this to be unlikely I am going to replace the GFCI, or test without it, to see if it makes a difference in the voltage and current. FYI - other loads on this circuit have been eliminated to reduce possible adverse impact from them. Removing the load created by the heater did not change the circumstances mentioned above.
  3. I noticed that Dip switch 5 position should be ON but it wasn’t that way previously so was reluctant to change it. I will give it a try. Thank you!
  4. Additional information - Voltage verified to be close to 120v. Capacitor tested good. Both thermostats had to be replaced to eliminate the error codes they generated. Top side seems to be working properly. The new pump/motor had worked a few days and brought water to 90 degrees F. In order to achieve this I had to power up the unit, when low speed started I switched it to high speed using too-side. After it timed out on high it went to low speed and heater came on. This work-around stopped after a few days which is when I started testing for load on the motor. Interestingly, the load on the motor when low and high are reversed is consistent with expected - approx. 4 amps on the low leg and approx. 11 amps on the high leg.
  5. When wired the other way, which I believe is consistent with the prior motor connections, during low speed operation the motor draws over 10 amps on the low speed leg /black wire and causes the motor to stop running (I.e. I believe it is the motor’s thermal protection stopping the motor). I disassembled the pump looking for clogs or obstructions but there were none. The pump will periodically cycle on and off with the same outcome. Any further thoughts? Thank you for your assistance!
  6. Thank you for your help! I believe these photos have what you are looking for.
  7. 2010 Viking Spa with Balboa controller needed a new pump/ motor so I replaced it. With 2 speeds wired the same as old motor the low speed draws high amps and stops. I assume it is the thermal protection on motor. I assumed the wires must be reversed so changed them. Pump will run on low with amps less than 4 and on high with draw of 12amps. Being consistent with what I was expecting I thought it solved my problem but heater works only with high speed. This combined draw blows the breaker. It’s only on 15 amp 120 v plug in circuit. Any idea why this is happening? Thanks in advance!
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