[Arctic Spas Lighting]

I have an LED light system in my old Marquis 660 (2010) and had to replace all the light lenses and about half the LEDs. These are single LED, not the multiple type shown in the previous post, but probably the same standard type of RGB LED. Mine works as you described, there is a master controller and all the LED daisy chain off the controller. It has several modes that change as you switch the power on and off rapidly. I used standard RGB LED to repair the broken ones. I simply cut the harness back and soldered in the new LEDs, worked exactly as the originals. It's all in the controller unit. I searched all over the internet to find info on that controller, but there is NOTHING. I just made some assumptions and experimented to figure out how it all worked. Cost well under $10 to fix, but plenty of time to dig the harness and LED out of the foam insulation. the foam spray was the most expensive part since I used 4 cans.

 

[Balboa Vs500Z input resistance]

Thanks CanadianSpaTech !, the GFCI wiring was the problem. Once I corrected the neutral wire and reinstalled the control unit it fired right up. Now I have discovered every single control valve is shot....used tubs, gotta luv'em !

[Balboa Vs500Z input resistance]

Thanks, I'll need to correct the wiing, as mine is not wired that way. Will test it out and report back.

[Balboa Vs500Z input resistance]

Just picked up a used hot tub with the Balboa VS500 control. The Spa was operating before it was moved to my home. I just connected everything up and now my breaker trips instantly. My question is, can anyone confirm the resistance reading from the black "HOT" terminal to the "NEU" terminal on the board

I have removed the board from the housing and disconnected any wires from the "NEU". I have also removed the MOV protection (it tested OK) I'm measuring only 37 Ohms. Board looks perfect otherwise, I'm stumped at this point. fingers pointing to the terminals I measured across.