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Jake8503

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  2. I screwed up.... 220V 50 amp GFCI wiring

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    4 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

    The white wires connected to White AC are being powered by 120VAC. White AC (cluster of male connectors coming off the circuit board) is 120VAC. Red AC cluster provides 240VAC power. So if a white wire coming from a component like a pump or blower is connected to White AC it is running as a 120V. If it is going to Red AC it is powering a 240V component. Your components might only be 120V and can't be run by 240. You would have to verify each components voltage before making any changes. If it was set up and run as it is now then it should be fine as is. Again least of your worries at this point.

    Well it turns out the 3/10 amp fuse on the circuit board is bad.  I have to try to find one, I only have a Home Depot locally and they list a .5 amp time delay fuse or a local spa repair place I'm going to try Monday or I'll have to order online.  

  3. I screwed up.... 220V 50 amp GFCI wiring

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    27 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

    Yeah remove and check that glass F4 fuse it powers the board.

    Was the spa set up to run as a 120VAC spa before you got it? I see a lot of components (white wire) connected to White AC (120VAC) and don't see anything plugged into RED AC (240VAC) Are the pumps, blower 240 or 120? Least of your worries at this point but if you get it going we can look at all that.

    It was set up with 240 previously, it was strictly me 100% not paying attention and just assuming.  I've wired 240 before but never with the GFCI.  I am going to test all of them again and hope for the best.  All the components are 240.  

  4. I screwed up.... 220V 50 amp GFCI wiring

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    Yeah I need to finish checking them, won't have time until Monday though.  The problem is I assumed my neutral from the tub went to the side of the breaker that has the pigtail neutral which in fact was supposed to be hot.  The scary thing is the breaker didn't trip, the display on the tub flashed then went out, then I turned the breaker off.  I'll keep testing things before I replace the board but I fear the worst...I only paid $300 for the tub so if I did screw it up the worst part will be moving it and getting a different one haha.  Life goes on.

  5. I screwed up.... 220V 50 amp GFCI wiring

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    3 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

    Test hot to hot for 240.

    With it removed? If installed, turn on power and test across fuse for voltage. You should read 0 volts.

    Test them as above.

    As I recall, on that board there is a tiny fuse, maybe a half inch long, that is soldered in. This is the low voltage fuse. Test it with your meter as well.

    Yes to 240

    Yes removed and I will test voltage across it after work tomorrow.

    I will double check all the fuses.  

  9. I screwed up.... 220V 50 amp GFCI wiring

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    So I am new to having a hot tub, we bought a cheap used unit that was supposed to work great.  I ran wire, hooked it up to the Balboa Value 2000 system, ran it to my panel and hooked it up wrong on the breaker.  I know I know I just didn't pay attention.  It is a GFCI breaker I ran my white wire to the ground bar, then put he wire from the tub to the same spot on the breaker well it turns out that was supposed to be a hot (red or black) wire then I put the red to the white spot.  It supposed to go red white black.  I turned the breaker on the display flashed for a split second then nothing.  I found my mistake, corrected it.  Checked all the fuses I could find on the Balboa system and they all looked fine, I tested the ceramic fuse and it tested good. The system does nothing.  Nothing comes on the control panel.  The tub is still empty so is there a system in place to prevent it from running without water?  It is an older Catalina Spa.   Did I likely fry my board?  

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