MicahE

So it has been 11 days and the tub has been slowly, but steadily warming up. Obviously there is an issue because it is only ~74 deg, up from 45 deg 11 days ago...so increasing about 2.5 deg per day. I had recently cleaned the filter (filter is about 5 months old, at most), the setting seem to be fine...with a goal of 104 deg. Previously we have replaced the water it only took a day or two to heat it back up. Jets appear to be operating normal. I'm guessing testing the heating element is a good place to start but do you have any other suggestions? Thank you so much,

Well I went out there to move the panel connection from J33 to J45 and before I did, looked at the panel. No "no comm" and it was 51 deg with pumps running. It's in the low 20's outside right now so it must be heating, I'm just going to leave it alone but will keep the J33/J45 in my back pocket for the next comm error.

Yes. It lit up and said "240v" for a while, then went to apparent normal operation (jets, measured temp) but it would not respond to any button pressing. I reset the breaker and it did the 240v readout then said "no comm". Great, thank you. I will try this in a couple of hours. Thanks again.

Thanks again. New problem...we just had an electrician replace the service panel and installed a new GFCI breaker. Upon re-starting hot tub it would show "240v" on the readout for a while then went to apparent normal operations, heating indicator light on, though not able to adjust temp. I gave it a day and it had only risen a few degrees (45 -> 49). I switched off the breaker and switched it back on. Same "240v". I checked back and it is flashing "no comm". Manual says this means "The control panel is not receiving communication from the system - call for service". Other than checking fuses again, is there anything you'd recommend I look at? I'm considering draining the tub because we're about to get a big winter storm and it won't be above freezing (and in the lower teens) for over a week. Water is at ~45 deg and don't want any of the plumbing to break from freeze. Thanks

Thank you. The panel that serves the hot tub does not have a main switch so I'm not comfortable removing the breaker, which is GFCI. I tested the wires at the tub control panel and read 118v from red to black, 118v from red to white, and 0v from black to white. I tested all the fuses and they seem to test ok, but I replaced them all anyway (except for the .3a fuse, which was not available for purchase near me). No change after replacement. I'm on an electrician's schedule to replace the subject panel with one that has a main switch, as well as perform some wire clean-up. As best I can tell, the only way to shut off the subject panel is at the transformer, which I'm locked out of. I shut down the house panel and it did not effect the panel that serves the tub.

Thanks for the tips. So if the voltage tester indicates power at the tub when the breaker is closed (on) but does not indicate any power at the tub when the breaker is open (off), do you think that there could still be an issue with the breaker (I guess such as not enough power)? The setting I had the multimeter on reads 1 (100% resistance) when the leads are not touching anything, per the manual. When I tested the fuse it read .6 or .06. The breaker read 117. I suppose replacing the breaker and fuse is an inexpensive and easy fix so I may as well replace them in any case.

Hello, I'm a new owner of a hot tub (2014 CalSpa) and it has been working fine for the past several months but recently stopped operating. When I say "stopped operating", I mean that the LCD screen and buttons are not lit up in any way and nothing is functioning. Using a non-contact voltage detector I've established that there is power to the board. I've pulled the largest fuse (SC-30A) and tested it with a multimeter, which indicated that it has continuity. The other fuses (which are much smaller amperage and clear/visible) appear to be fine. I don't see any GFCI breaker/fuse other than the main, which works properly...as evidenced by there being power to the control board. I've attached pictures of the control board, do you have any suggestions for where to check next? My next step would be to go ahead and replace the 30A fuse, even though it tested to be operational. Thank you so much!