dayday1

Okay I will run another test here shortly and let you know what I got. However you mention 1 scoop of powder in 10ml after that how many drops of R0003 do I add for CC The FAS DPD test I did was what I followed off the Taylor youtube channel on how to do it. On there it says 25ml and two scoops etc. So I followed their method. As for the 2005 reagents. A guy here I know that sells them said the FAS DPD test is more time consuming for a daily check and I could just use the reagents from the 2005 test kit so I got the reagents and the comparator. Looking at the directions for the 2005 and 2006 test kit it is the same add 5 r0001 5 r0002 mix and FC then r0003 mix and TC. So I did not and do not see a reason that shouldn't work. THAT said I can understand the bleaching out you mention but that is only because I shocked the tub yesterday. The other times my FC read 5 and TC read lower. 5 is not a high Chlorine level and I wouldn't think it should bleach out.

@waterbear

I spoke with the manufacturer today and he said the 4th intake is a safety thing. If one of the other intakes get clogged then that 4th will open up and take over as to not damage the pumps. Leisure Bay Hot Tub 1411 model

Just spoke with Taylor to the guy who wrote the instructions for these kits. After the FAS DPD test he told me my CC was at 4 and I needed to add 4ppm of Chlorine to take care of the CC. We discussed about my reading of FC and how each day I test I am within 1 to 2 ppm of chlorine from the day before. i.e. I get a 5 today tomorrow it would be a 3 or 4ish. If something was using my chlorine that FC number would change. So he didn't think anything was eating my chlorine or demanding it. Did I understand him correctly?

@waterbear

the numbers given above were all from the one pool company that does the computer testing. I had the other 2 pool companies to it also with their drop test one said 20 and one said 15. My test in my K2006 when the cylinder is full its at 30 and I can still see the black dot at the bottom so I know its less than 30. But that makes sense because since the fresh refill I put in 6 teaspoons upon fill and 4 teaspoons one other time, and 1 teaspoon twice on two separate days.

Two pool stores doing a drop test and one using a computer kinda thing that is supposed to be 98% accurate. As for names of kits I am not sure. However they all said my numbers were overall good except for the computer one that said my PH was high. I am no longer getting any brown stuff out of the Hot Tub there is a slight oily haze in the water I am not sure what that is. Kinda looks slimy and clear like spit or snot consistency. As for my testing kit I am using the K 2006 but I am using the R001 and R002 to test chlorine which today read 3 ppm, I added R003 and it read 3 also which is basically the way it has read every time I have done it. When I add the R003 I don't get a higher color on the comparator its basically the same color. That said in the days of testing my Chlorine levels only go down very little from the day before so I am not sure I am understanding what you mean in excessive FC use. I tested yesterday at a 4 and today at a 3. My water is clear as a bell other than the slight slimy stuff mentioned above that I only noticed today in one seating area of the tub. All my jets are working all my suction areas are working. I have one suction area that doesn't suck but according to manufacturer who I spoke with today said that is a back up in case one of the others get clogged. How would I check and see if something is dead in it??? And if there was wouldn't you think a jet or line would be not working? You are correct on the Boric Acid I read that wrong in another article and mixed the two up. Sorry I will try to find out what testing method they use. And again if you could a phone call would be helpful. Thank you

I was able to finally get in the tub for a few minutes today. There are 4 intakes in the bottom of the tub 3 are sucking the 4th nothing. Is the 4th for something else? Like ozone or whatever or should all 4 be sucking water. Thanks in advance.

Could you look below and advise the last few questions I have Thank you

Went to Lesley's pool store and gave them water. They have a computer system that automatically runs all the numbers somehow. Anyway they were still showing my PH as high where I was at a 7.6/7.7 ish. Went to another pool store who does it old school and they got the same thing I did. After 24 hours numbers below PH = 7.6 aerate for 15 minutes and got 7.8 so I think I cured the ph rise TA = 40 / 50 ish 4 drops pink 5 drops red FC 5 TC 5 Where am I trying to keep my chlorine numbers for use? Is 5 safe to go into? Is 10? So last step I think is 20 mule Borax?? How much?? 350 gallons Thinking 20 Mule over Boric Acid because of adding sulfates, thoughts?? However I've read 20 Mule requires more acid and my TA is already at a low number. Thanks for all your help gentlemen

Should be TC sorry yes typo and numbers from pool store. However when I do the test or have in the past. I do the r001 and r002 to get FC then add r003 to get TC and sometimes the number is the same. More often than not the TC is like 5 and the FC is 2. Which makes NO sense to me at all. 2 - 5 is negative 3 am I missing something?

Spent all day Sunday adding MA in 1 and 2 oz at a time mixed in bucket and poured in. Ran jets let sit for an hour and test again and repeat. Final last two times it took one drop of acid demand to get to 7.4 from 8.0 put another 1/2 oz in and went to bed. Didn't run jets or anything all day just its normal on off cycling. Grabbed water and went to pool store. FC = 4.7. TC= 4.17. PH = 8.3 TA= 53 CH = 140 CYA= 8 IRON - 0.1 COPPER = 0 Phosphates = 1457 TDS = 500 My own test resulted in FC = 4 to 5 CC = 4 to 5 PH = 1 drop to get from 8 to 7.4 TA = 5 to 6 drops to red. 5 drops light red 6 drops darker red Just added another 1/2 ounce MA and aerated By the looks of it my TA is going to need to be 40 to keep my PH inline. Is this an issue? Will Borate help this issue? What else could be causing this issue? I do have Ozone on the tub Also checked filter and still getting a light dust color something in the filter and a couple places at the water line. I am mixing MA in a bucket or in a jar with water and adding slowly to the center of the tub with the jets running. And leave running for about 20 minutes. I am aware of the CYA being low but so far I have only added 5 tsp of dichlor since the fresh fill

The brown staining came before the super chlorinate as I was trying to get the tub numbers in check. I did add 4oz to tub twice when I was doing this and the filter was in at that time. However once I got the numbers close I took the filter out and super chlorinated. So the brownish stuff was before the high Chlorine levels. What made me think the acid could have done it. Okay I didn't think about the acid lowering PH thing but makes total sense. So far the most I have ever added in one shot is 4oz. hopefully I didn't screw anything up. Iron according pool store 0.1 Copper 0.2 and Manganese I have no idea? CH 150 Read your post earlier this morning as I started the fill. Hence the question as to lowering PH slowly or lowering TA first then PH So as of now I added 2oz MA to 3 gallons of tub water mixed and poured into middle of tub, turned on all jets and opened air ran for 40 minutes Added 3oz of MA to 3 gallons mixed and added same as above. Is this too much MA at once? Also is this too much MA to close to each dosing? I plan to follow the dichlor/bleach routine just wanted clarification as to when to add before or after balance PH/TA Thank you for clearing up ALSO thank you for your response this morning as I would like to get this tub up and running I have had it almost a month and haven't used yet. Update: Just tested I do have the K 2006 kit and got the drops from the 2005 kit instead of powder to test Chlorine. Chlorine started at 3ppm this morning after adding 2oz MA and running Chlorine went to 1 after adding 3oz MA last time and running 40 minutes it is at 0 should I add some or just keep balancing first? Since first test this morning PH is down to 3 maybe 4 drops demand to get to 7.0 TA is at 100/110

I posted in here already and discussed my biofilm removal etc. Last night I did a super chlorinate 32oz 6% in 350 gallons rinsed & drained the tub. In the filter I am still seeing a light brown haze of some sort. My question is could that be still more biofilm or would MA cause some of that discoloration? Can't imagine biofilm as I have done 6 back to back cleanses and the last barely showed a thing. In balancing my hot tub before super chlorinating. It took roughly 10/11oz of MA to get TA to 50's and PH to 7.6, can or should I just add say 8oz. in bucket right off the bat to my 350 gallon tub or should I add 2oz aerate and then 2oz. etc. Is there a pro or con to too much MA at one time. Will it damage tub or leave brown residue in my filter and filter housing as I have seen. After adding how long do I need to let it sit before I can get a reading and add more? Right after aeriation and couple hours? Also seems I read somewhere that I should forget PH and get TA to 50 then adjust. But this morning I read get the PH to 7.0 aerate and repeat until PH doesn't climb over 7.8 then check TA. Please clarify best approach Lastly do I add the Dichlor now before adjust PH TA or after PH and TA are stable. Same for Mule 20 after PH and TA are stable or now, also how much for 350 gallons. Fresh fill after aeration numbers TA 160, PH used 5 drops base to get to 7.2, chlorine at 3 my guess was what was left in the tub pipes after draining. As of now I added 2oz. of MA and aeriated. Also since were here somewhere I read to aerate turn the air valves off that seems not right?? Thank you

Last night I did a super chlorinate 32oz 6% in 350 gallons rinsed & drained the tub. In the filter I am still seeing a light brown haze of some sort. My question is could that be still more biofilm or would MA cause some of that discoloration? Can't imagine biofilm as I have done 6 back to back cleanses and the last barely showed a thing. In balancing my hot tub before super chlorinating. It took roughly 10/11oz of MA to get TA to 50's and PH to 7.6, can or should I just add say 8oz. in bucket right off the bat to my 350 gallon tub or should I add 2oz aerate and then 2oz. etc. Is there a pro or con to too much MA at one time. Will it damage tub or leave brown residue in my filter and filter housing as I have seen. After adding how long do I need to let it sit before I can get a reading and add more? Right after aeriation and couple hours? Also seems I read somewhere that I should forget PH and get TA to 50 then adjust. But this morning I read get the PH to 7.0 aerate and repeat until PH doesn't climb over 7.8 then check TA. Please clarify best approach Lastly do I add the Dichlor now before adjust PH TA or after PH and TA are stable. Same for Mule 20 after PH and TA are stable or now, also how much for 350 gallons.

That's the second of 4 purges I did. The last was just some water discoloration.

Don't know how to post a link sorry. I will try and attach stills now of the purge process

It does have ozone yes sir.

I give at this point I am going to smoke this thing. Just Super Chlorinate it right now with the numbers as they stand. I added 2oz of MC this morning ran jets and air for 40 minutes, re-tested demand was 2 drops, added 2 more oz of MC ran jets again 40 minutes and acid deman was 1 drop but TA is at 55 from 100 yesterday. No one has used this tub YET and as of yesterdays test my FC has dropped so its eating something is my guess. yesterday 3.85 FC vs today 1.96 Yesterday 4.26 TC vs today 2.03 ""PH 8.4 vs today 8.2 ""TA 109 vs today 55 ""CH 149 vs today 145 ""CYA 12 vs today 11 ""Phosphates 1454 vs today 1522 ""tds 300 vs today 600 All changes in one day and adding 4oz of MC only ANY HELP SUGGESTIONS THOUGHTS ANYONE WANNA BUY A HOT TUB Yesterday.pdf Today.pdf

FYI for anyone who is buying a used tub I attached a video. I ran a purge product from the local pool store and got nothing. I researched a little and used Ah-some and got yuk out. The video below is the 2nd purge I did. I did a total of 4 or 5 purges I can't remember but the last one only brought out some discoloration of foam around the edges no more chunks. IMG_0943.MOV

Leslie Results FC 2-5 Mine 3.85 TC within 0.2 of FAC mine 4.26 PH 8.4 TA 109 CH 149 CYA 12 Iron 0.1 Copper 0 Phosphorous 1454 says they have a product to lower that and that I should..... Tub has brand new filter says to add "nophos" Should I add this product??? TDS 300 At this point I am going I am going to add an ounce of MC run it for 25 minutes jets all on and valves open, then retest and keep adding an ounce and repeating until I get where I need to be with PH......is this correct method?? As you can see above I got on my kit a 2 for FC and a 5 for TC per the kit you minus the TC from the FC and get CC which in my case and the way I read it 2-5= (-3) still not sure I understand that portion.

Thanks guys I actually bought the K-2006 kit and got a comparator out of a 2005 kit that had chlorine side. I will look into the other kits mentioned today. I know my TA is 100 so maybe just keep lowering it and areating. I do have to say I have read that process a few times and still not sure exactly how that is done. Meaning add acid run jets for 30 minutes then test water again immediately and base my damand off that??? If that's the case won't it drop too low when the jets aren't running?? Taking some water to Leslies as I type

Up this morning the 1oz of MA didn't do the trick. However I am at 2 drops acid demand instead of 3 to get to 7.6 if someone can help me with the MULE 20 borates maybe it will come down or keep adding acid until desired PH TA is 100 FC is 5 when total chlorine was 2 and if I am doing this right 2 -5 = -3 on combined???????

I will try to be quick and short Bought a used tub got it home and hooked up. Bought a spa cleaner and ran it through but didn't seem to get much of anything. Researched and bought some ahh-some 1st cleaning brought a lot of brown nasty's out, so I did a 2nd which brought more as did the 3rd. By the 4th it was just very little each time I purged I poured at least a half a cup of 6% bleach in or some dichlor 6 tsp On the 4th purge I tried to make the chemistry close as I did not bother with that on the previous 3 purges just bleach. I could not get my PH to come down. I was using the test strips & everything else was fine but ph never would come down. I used pretty much an entire bottle of ph down over a 24 hour period and nothing. Went ahead and purged that 4th time draining the tub, wiped it down with 50/50 mix water and white vinegar. Refilled the tub added dichlor and a shot of bleach ran the tub jets for about an hour drained the tub again then fresh filled it. Tub is fresh filled added dichlor and 4oz of muratic acid, waited for tub to get over 80 degrees then added spa marvel. TA sitting about 110, bleach about 5 and PH off the charts. Mind you I have since bought the Taylor 2005. The acid demand was 3 drops and according to my tub 350 gallons was so about an ounce of muratic was added. 6 hours later ph still of the charts and acid demand still 3 drops. Some say algae can give a false ph or high bleach. I don't have high bleach at 5 and I can't imagine anything living in my tub after all the cleans Any help, suggestions would be appreciated. Also the spa marvel people said to leave TA 120 to 150 and that their product leaves PH a little high. Well my kit only goes to 8 so I have no way of knowing if its 8.2 or 16.2 and that doesn't work for me. Should I even be using a product like spa marvel?? Also read that using 20 mule borates help and to get the tub around 50ppm. Could someone please tell me how I can measure that ???? Or calculation as to know how to to add. Please and thank you also I am in the Tampa Bay area if any of you folks are neighbors and chemist let me know.