Thank you for writing about the Dichlor-Bleach Method.
We just got a free standing 300 gallon fiberglass hot tub ~6 weeks ago and added a silver mineral stick and were adding a teaspoon of dichlor after each daily use to keep chlorine reading in the 1-2 range
I was expecting that our water to last 3-4 months and then our CYA got to 100 this past weekend so I drained the tub. In retrospect, I could have drained 3/4 or the volume to get to CYA 25.
I and am eager to find a way to have the water last and be safe at the same time. The CDC advises against CYA in hot tubs and it sound like some CYA is a good chlorine buffer https://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/swimming/residential/disinfection-testing.html
Given my recent reading about your work, and the pool calculator, I figured I would add boric acid to get borate to 50 and try the Dichlor-Bleach Method.
Q. Is there a concern with Lye or salt in regular clorox vs Liquid chlorine from a pool store?
Q. Is there some rule of thumb ratio of dry acid to chlorine to maintain pH and Total alkalinity in the desired ranges?
Q. Other evolution in the Dichlor-Bleach Method worthy of note since 2008?
I saw one person use a Bulk Reef Supply dosing pump and timer to inject the liquid bleach into a hot tub automatically. https://youtu.be/RfsBP7ScIpE Another used a smart switch like WeMo with a similar setup. I as a Noobie welcome advice from those who are more experience in this realm.
