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stape2000

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  1. Thanks. I actually figured it out. I did not have the jumpers in the correct locations. The green and red blinking light were not in unison but intermittent. Spa powered up fine...although now I have a broken valve I need to fix.
  2. Well I did find out I have the jumpers JP 1, 3, 4 in the wrong spots with my new main board. Going to change those to the correct settings and try that. Can anyone verify if I should have the heater relay board set to 12v or 18v. My main board is new but not new enough to have the 12v and 18v options.
  3. Well I did find out I have the jumpers JP1, 2, 3, 4 in the wrong spots with my new main board. Going to change those to the correct settings and try that.
  4. I just posted my own topic. But I have the same issues. Just replaced the pump and still getting the red and green lights. But at least im getting water flowing with the new circ pump. Heater tested fine so I may try and replace that pressure switch.
  5. Any help would be great. I have a Hot Springs Sovereign. Serial Number II3J1659. A few years ago we had lighting hit several things at our house and I assume the hot tub got hit as well. Over the last few months I have tried to figure it out and fix things. Started out I was getting no power to the main board. The heater relay is the newer type so that was obviously replaced some point before we bought the house with the hot tub. After lots of research I decided to buy a new main board. I installed it and now have power. After I flip the 20 and 30 amp breakers I get red and green flashing lights. Upon further research and the fact I was getting nothing from the circulation pump I decided to purchase a new one. I also purchased a new high limit and control thermistor. Last night I install all of these items. Turn the spa back on and the circulation pump now moves water as bubbles come out the bottom drain. Also the waterfall feature is moving water. The heater calls for heat and then quickly back to red and green flashing lights. I took apart everything after that. The heater tests fine at 10.3 ohms. I located the pressure switch inside the no fault heater and removed it. Could this be a pressure switch problem. I have everything taken apart and wish I would have tested the pressure switch before taking everything out. I would almost rather order the new 50 switch before installing just to take that out of the issue. Some other information. I am unable to control anything on the display board. 92 degress comes up with summer mode on. The jet button does not fire up the jets. Hopefully this makes some sense. Thanks again for any help.
  6. Do I need to drain the water to replace both Thermistors in the no fault heater or should I be able to quickly pull them and replace them without draining the water. Thanks Stape
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