[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

It's one of these plugs. I snipped the cable and soldered the wire together so it's already low resistance. 

Not 100% which it was. If I get chance to open up the spa tomorrow I'll take a pic

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

2 minutes ago, ratchett said:

 

What raw material are you using?

I'm printing this in Eryone PETG for the temperature resistance

[hotsprings watkins no fault heater replacement parts..]

Random update on this. 

 

Firstly, my long bendy pipe with Jubilee clips worked great. After refilling my spa, and also getting my hands on a 3D printer I decided to design a u bend part:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669602

 

Feel free to give it a go. It has a cutout to put a Jubilee clip and is very sturdy. Print in PETG so it can withstand the heat.

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

6 minutes ago, Suckerbait said:

How did you bypass the pressure switch?

I mentioned above that I just used a jumper to override it. Funny enough I have just refilled my spa after a few months of being drained. I have just designed this part and am 3D printing it. Should hopefully tidy it up a lot

[hotsprings watkins no fault heater replacement parts..]

Haha. That's pretty much the solution i came up with too. Works great

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

12 minutes ago, Cusser said:

I have a 1988 CalSpa, and I've had to adjust the pressure switch a couple of times, pretty straightforward.  Did you try running without the filter cartridge in place?

For mine, I did find that replacement pressure switches are still available, as well as universal types I could add.

Hi,

Yeah I tried without the filters with no luck. I have bypassed the pressure switch now and all seems ok.

The pressure switch on ours is integrated into the heater, so the whole thing would need replacing. Do you think the universal ones can be added inline directly into one of the silicon hoses instead of the heater itself?

Cheers

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

This post suggests that someone else has done this and that it should be safe.

Anyone else tried this?

['05 Tiger River Caspian - Flashing Ready and Power, with Working Circ Pump]

Hi,

I have this same problem. I jumped the pressure switch with some clips and the spa starts up fine. I am in two minds as to if I want to leave it like this or not. Have you had any trouble with your tub after this modification?

Cheers,

hopoffbaby

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

Update:

After reading this blog I found out that the pressure switch can be bypassed for diagnostics. I did just that with a jumper cable at the motherboard contacts and hey presto, the spa starts to heat and the lights are back to normal.

So it looks like there is an issue with the pressure switch. From what I can find, it looks like this is a integrated component. Does any one have an exploded diagram of the heater, or know of any way to service it. Failing that, is there likely any issue with leaving this bypass in place permanently?

I have also noticed that when cleaning the filters, there is a LOT of white stuff that comes out of the filter with the silver ions cartridge in it. Is this normal? At the moment this junk is all over my patio... I can only imagine what the inside of the heater must look like.

Cheers,

hopoffbaby

[Hot Springs Icon Lights Flashing]

Any luck fixing this?

[Hotsprings Sovereign - No heat - Help?]

Hi All,

We have a Hot Springs Sovereign from ~2006 (ish). It has decided to stop heating the water after a spa party :(

The display flashes the green (ready) and red (power) lights after around 30 seconds from power on. According to the user manual:

Quote

If the spa is not heating, the red and green lights are blinking, but the pump and light are operating, then the pressure switch may be open. Opening of the pressure switch is normally a result of one or a combination of these problems: 1) a clogged filter cartridge, 2) blockage within the system plumbing, 3) power was not disconnected to the spa before it was drained, or 4) an air lock in the plumbing lines. Once the problem has been identified and corrected the pressure switch will close which will energize the heater.

I have replaced the filters with new ones, and have tried bleeding air from the drain plug at the bottom. I have also used a plunger on the filter opening (where the silver ions go) and disconnected a few tubes around the small pump to try and bleed air (couldn't get most off as they clearly haven't moved for 10+ years). Still the lights mock us....

Inspired by this blog I tested the following (with the spa powered off) with a multi-meter, which to me I think are normal (although I am a rank amateur):

Pressure Switch: 0 Ohms

LimTherm: 12.2K Ohms

RegTherm 12.1K Ohms

The water temp is prob 25C at a guesstimate.

One other thing i noticed is that the heater has a small leak in the plastic end cap as described in this post. Although this has been like this for at least 2 months and has worked fine throughout. 

The circulation pump is working, we have bubbles from the heat inlet. The jet pump also works. 

Any help would be greatly received.

Cheers,

hopoffbaby.

[hotsprings watkins no fault heater replacement parts..]

On 7/26/2018 at 9:31 PM, jasons81 said:

Here is my fix, with some hose clamps from a local hardware store:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXCVJNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R7IwBbFC7ED84

Silicone is very heat tolerant and I suspect this will long outlast the plastic piece as designed from the factory.

Hi,

This looks like an excellent idea for fixing this. I have noticed today I have this same problem. Could you please confirm the pipe sizing that is required and do you have any images of the pipe installed in your spa?

Thanks