hopoffbaby

It's one of these plugs. I snipped the cable and soldered the wire together so it's already low resistance. Not 100% which it was. If I get chance to open up the spa tomorrow I'll take a pic

I'm printing this in Eryone PETG for the temperature resistance

Random update on this. Firstly, my long bendy pipe with Jubilee clips worked great. After refilling my spa, and also getting my hands on a 3D printer I decided to design a u bend part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669602 Feel free to give it a go. It has a cutout to put a Jubilee clip and is very sturdy. Print in PETG so it can withstand the heat.

I mentioned above that I just used a jumper to override it. Funny enough I have just refilled my spa after a few months of being drained. I have just designed this part and am 3D printing it. Should hopefully tidy it up a lot

Haha. That's pretty much the solution i came up with too. Works great

Hi, Yeah I tried without the filters with no luck. I have bypassed the pressure switch now and all seems ok. The pressure switch on ours is integrated into the heater, so the whole thing would need replacing. Do you think the universal ones can be added inline directly into one of the silicon hoses instead of the heater itself? Cheers

This post suggests that someone else has done this and that it should be safe. Anyone else tried this?

Hi, I have this same problem. I jumped the pressure switch with some clips and the spa starts up fine. I am in two minds as to if I want to leave it like this or not. Have you had any trouble with your tub after this modification? Cheers, hopoffbaby

Update: After reading this blog I found out that the pressure switch can be bypassed for diagnostics. I did just that with a jumper cable at the motherboard contacts and hey presto, the spa starts to heat and the lights are back to normal. So it looks like there is an issue with the pressure switch. From what I can find, it looks like this is a integrated component. Does any one have an exploded diagram of the heater, or know of any way to service it. Failing that, is there likely any issue with leaving this bypass in place permanently? I have also noticed that when cleaning the filters, there is a LOT of white stuff that comes out of the filter with the silver ions cartridge in it. Is this normal? At the moment this junk is all over my patio... I can only imagine what the inside of the heater must look like. Cheers, hopoffbaby

Any luck fixing this?

Hi All, We have a Hot Springs Sovereign from ~2006 (ish). It has decided to stop heating the water after a spa party :( The display flashes the green (ready) and red (power) lights after around 30 seconds from power on. According to the user manual: I have replaced the filters with new ones, and have tried bleeding air from the drain plug at the bottom. I have also used a plunger on the filter opening (where the silver ions go) and disconnected a few tubes around the small pump to try and bleed air (couldn't get most off as they clearly haven't moved for 10+ years). Still the lights mock us.... Inspired by this blog I tested the following (with the spa powered off) with a multi-meter, which to me I think are normal (although I am a rank amateur): Pressure Switch: 0 Ohms LimTherm: 12.2K Ohms RegTherm 12.1K Ohms The water temp is prob 25C at a guesstimate. One other thing i noticed is that the heater has a small leak in the plastic end cap as described in this post. Although this has been like this for at least 2 months and has worked fine throughout. The circulation pump is working, we have bubbles from the heat inlet. The jet pump also works. Any help would be greatly received. Cheers, hopoffbaby.

Hi, This looks like an excellent idea for fixing this. I have noticed today I have this same problem. Could you please confirm the pipe sizing that is required and do you have any images of the pipe installed in your spa? Thanks