Tubber49
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Posts posted by Tubber49
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I'm not sure if I'm posting this because I'm so excited and am about to head for a soak OR to encourage other tub owners that THEY CAN DO IT!
So after a few weeks of searching and debating about spending the money on my tub, I walked into a yard sale on a Saturday morning. There was a spa pack in a box in the garage.
How much I ask? $20! What do I have to lose? I can't get a pizza for $20 these days.
So here I am. Heater was longer than my other pack. Needed a pump cord. $20 for the cord, $25 for the PVC and BELIEVE IT OR NOT my topside control fit!
So if your tub doesn't leak, you're happy with the jet situation, etc "GO FOR IT" (It wasn't working anyway!)
Happy Tubbing, everyone!
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CanadianSpaTech, Mike223, Spa Shop, Thanks for all your help. I got nowhere and couldn't get to much because the rust was too heavy and couldn't get the parts out.
So my AP4 is now retired. There is more to this story but it will be on another thread.
Thanks again I love this forum!
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It's a Spabuilders AP-4. Running on 110 v.
I'm off from work Thursday and will check the heater. First chance I've had since life happens lol.
But I did take a pic of the control box. Don't know if that will help.
I really appreciate the help.
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I'm not sure how to test it BUT if I jumper the pressure switch, the same thing happens.
Lots of other things going on lately, I hope to get to this later in the week.
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Brand new heater. No Ozone. Will see what happens when I have some time this weekend. Sigh....
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Well, the pressure switch is in and the heater comes on but blows the GFCI after running for about 10 minutes.
Can't help but think my next move is to pull the contactor(s) out and see what that water did to the wires I can't see.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
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So frustrated because I can't come up with an answer. Only happens when I turn the heater on. But I just discovered today that my pressure switch is leaking and my control box is pretty wet. Ordered a new pressure switch. I'm hoping once it dries out and I put in the new switch, the problem will solve itself.
What I can't get past is why the pack runs just fine and only blows the breaker when calling for heat. Wondering if the heater contactor getting so wet is the issue.
So while I wait for the switch to arrive, looking for thoughts to calm my racing mind!
TIA
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Heater is tripping the GFCI. OK, seems easy enough one would think BUT not when I turn the heater on. It's a 110 tub so I've been running the pump with no heat just to keep it from freezing up. So I turn on the heater and the heater runs for 6 hours before tripping, 3 hours before tripping, 4 hours, all sorts of random times. The tub is now up to temp and I can go out and and turn it on and rely on it to run until ???.
By the way, I can see how long it ran until tripping by checking the timer.
Any thoughts??? BTW, it NEVER trips with just the pump on.
TIA
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Go for it. The parts were free. I have a 1983 tub that had a much different configuration than your original but I was able to retrofit it with a pack similar to the one you had (it's been running for YEARS). Some PVC and some patience and you should be good to go! Good luck!
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After working just fine for forever, it seems, my AP-4 tripped the GFCI. I disconnected the heater, tested and ordered a new heater. Meanwhile I kept the circ pump running so there was no chance of freezing up. Replaced the heater today and it's still tripping the breaker. No sign of wire problems but I did notice that one of the contactors is running very hot, so hot I can't keep my fingers on it.
Could that be the problem? The heater was really bad with a rust spot where the pressure switch had leaked a while back, so it didn't surprise me that it was bad.
Any thoughts? TIA
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Bypass it temporarily (GOOGLE OR YOU TUBE) and see if the temp goes up. Is there a light that shows the heater is on? wait and see if the temp goes up. Then you need to determine if the switch needs adjustment or just needs to be replaced.
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Check the pressure switch (if there is one). There might be flow because the pump is pumping but the switch won't allow the heater to come on because the flow isn't enough. The point of the pressure switch is to turn the heater off to prevent the heater from being damaged. The heat of the pump may be enough to keep the temp at 81 degrees.
Jumper the pressure switch to see if the heater comes on. If it does then you need to either replace or adjust the switch.
Worth a look and a try.
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Even with no heat on my pump running can raise the temp 5 degrees when it's that hot out. I actually had my heater go once and kept the tub from freezing by just running the pump because it stayed somewhat heated.
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Look at you go!! Heat would make me happy without the jets or blower (but I'm pretty simple LOL). I still need to check out my controls but my weekend is just Monday this week.
I'd wait until the manual arrives (SOON, PLEASE!) before I go digging out more foam. My blower sits right up under the top of the tub to the right of the control panel because of the way the air circulates so that water doesn't get into the blower (don't remember what it's called). You may want to look up and see what's up there....may solve some questions!
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You've come a long way in a short period of time. Keep at it.....you're almost home. Will think about the jets. Is there a blower somewhere. If memory serves me, my switch had 2 settings. First push-jets, 2nd-blower, 3rd-both. Will open up my control panel over the weekend and see what that brings back to mind...
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I have a early 80s tub and if it has no leaks (except the 2 you mentioned) it could certainly be repaired. I wouldn't bother with the weld on pvc. PVC and the connectors are relatively cheap.
It also looks as if your pressure switch is leaking, Depending on the switch it could be a under $50 part (mine is under $30). My guess is that is a air switch 110 controller and there are lots out there from cheap to expensive.
I've really done a ton of research through the years to keep mine up and running.
Is your pump running? Does the heater heat?
It is doable, depends on how much you want to do short of a new control panel. BTW, I see many on craigslist in my area, worth a look.
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Don't have any info on model but I would try putting a piece of tissue paper over the plate with the model number and take a pencil to see if you can make out the model # better. Once you have a model number there are manuals out there to help
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Not to one up Cusser but my 1984 is still going strong with bromine tablets BUT I have found there is a HUGE difference in the quality of bromine tablets. You get what you pay for. Maybe it's time to try a different brand.
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Is it a 220v spa or 110v? Makes a huge difference in heat up time after refill. There are average numbers out there on the web and I believe a 110v heats about 1 1/2 degrees an hour, which the math works correctly for my 110v.
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Great news! So happy for you and that's a great price, too! Enjoy your soaks!
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not knowing what your setup is, one side of your contactor slants in on both sides. I would make sure that there is room for the other one because the corners are squared off.
Can you google the actual part no? I can't read it in the picture. I also don't see a connector on both sides of the contactor in your picture. The amazon part has it on both side another reason why it may not physically fit
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It's the heater contactor. If you google the part # they are available. Check the wiring while you're in there. Loose or corroded wiring can cause contactor failure but it looks to me that the contactor itself got corroded. Did you hear any chattering or clicking before the heater failed? Lots of information on the web on contactors.
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What happens when you unscrew the screws at the 4 corners and slide out the part? If it's broken anyway, what do you have to lose?
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Sorry about the late update. The pressure switch did the trick and I'm all up and running. Still a bit noisy but heating like a champ. Because it was deep freeze time here in NJ, I was concerned not to drain the tub. I found a rubber plug to stop up the hole where the leaking pressure switch went and, because I'm running 110, ran the pump the whole time. The water never dropped below 60 degrees. With the pressure switch bypassed, I could turn on the heater and the light came on. I was afraid to run the heater any longer but that test was enough to encourage me I was on the right track. I do have another question but will make another post when I've got a better handle on what I need to do. I wish you were closer to me in North Jersey, I may send you pictures just to give you a laugh but I've had this old baby up and running for 20 years!
Thanks for your help. We NJ people are the best!
My "new" Spa pack!
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Thank you! I'm still pinching myself!
Really though, for all those folks who think it may be a major production, go for it!
Most of the newer packs are easier than this one, no plumbing required.