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Tubber49

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About Tubber49

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  1. What happens when you unscrew the screws at the 4 corners and slide out the part? If it's broken anyway, what do you have to lose?
  2. Sorry about the late update. The pressure switch did the trick and I'm all up and running. Still a bit noisy but heating like a champ. Because it was deep freeze time here in NJ, I was concerned not to drain the tub. I found a rubber plug to stop up the hole where the leaking pressure switch went and, because I'm running 110, ran the pump the whole time. The water never dropped below 60 degrees. With the pressure switch bypassed, I could turn on the heater and the light came on. I was afraid to run the heater any longer but that test was enough to encourage me I was on the right track. I do have another question but will make another post when I've got a better handle on what I need to do. I wish you were closer to me in North Jersey, I may send you pictures just to give you a laugh but I've had this old baby up and running for 20 years! Thanks for your help. We NJ people are the best!
  3. Thanks, but I'm sure I found the problem. The pressure switch is leaking. Tried to adjust in and removed it and re-seated it but it leaks even more. There was a ton of water in the control which I vac'd out and dried with a hair dryer but the minute I started the pump, it leaked even more. So I ordered a new pressure switch and see if that caused the problem. Based on the amount of water, I'll "assume" that that's why the GFCI tripped. Nothing electrical should be running that wet. I'll keep you in the loop when the new part arrives. Cross your fingers!
  4. I've had a Spabuilders AP-4 for years. Last year I gave up the ghost on one and found a brand new one on ebay extremely reasonably priced. It's been working like a champ until a few days ago. The heater contactor started chattering and a few days later, the GFCI tripped. It works just fine with the heat shut off so I'm pretty sure it's the contactor and because it was heating fine until the chattering, I'm thinking it's the heater contactor NOT the element itself. Does anyone have any thoughts. Can a contactor cause a GFCI to trip? Any thoughts? TIA
  5. If I understand your post correctly it seems like the split coupler I mentioned in another post would work.
  6. They're easily available. My local spa shop had one. The pic is from ebay. Without taking the entire section apart there is no way to replace the O-ring or gasket. I'd use the one that is in the existing part.
  7. Easy, peasy. The toughest part of this is getting the old coupler off or, if you choose not to stress too much, just unscrew it and push it up the flex pipe. Then you get a split-nut union that screws together and then screw it down.
  8. I got my tub super cheap in 2000 and it's still going strong. New spa pack, new pumps, put in unions where there was none to change filter, etc. I was a 50 yr old single woman at the time. One of the parts sales sites had posted an article that said anyone could do it yourself, so I did! The big thing is that the shell is NOT cracked. A leak or crack in the shell will only create a nightmare. If you can't see it filled, look around the area where it sits for leaks. Mine was kept inside on a sunporch so there would have been some signs. Have fun! Will be looking for posts on your progress.
  9. Which Spabuilders system? Have you disconnected the topside to see if the heater up button works without it?
  10. I'd think long and hard about moving it. I was quoted over $500.00 to move one I wanted to buy and it was only moving less than 20 miles total. Apparently, in the movers mind, these are very delicate things and need the utmost care. When I bought the one I have now, 4 of us picked it up, put it on a flatbed trailer and drove it over. The electronics were still in it and moved the thing just fine. I'd see if there was a way to do something like this (even if you have to put it in a u-haul). If you pull the pumps and the control out, they really don't weigh as much as you might think (it's the water that weighs so much and since you're not taking that...LOL). Just my experience. BTW, I kept my old tub. Didn't need to upgrade THAT much. Good luck.
  11. I use a hose to an inside sink also. I found that it wasn't worth it to use hot water. I have an electric hot water heater and using up all the hot water and then paying to heat the entire water tank was a waste. I just fill it with cold and let the tub heater go to it.
  12. The manual for my older spa was pretty useless. no wiring diagram or much of anything but how to turn on the heat, etc. Is there a way you could post a picture of the control pack so that someone might identify it? Once someone knows what controls are in it, there's a chance a wiring diagram could be found. Good luck.
  13. My Mr. Spa has a date plate of July 1983!
  14. Well, thanks for forcing this "lurker" to join up. I have a 1983 that I keep bringing back from the dead system wise. It has only 4 jets and the holes for the blower unit. While smaller, it looks a whole lot like yours. I once read if the shell is good, no leaks, etc. it's doable! Since no one else has replied, I thought I'd put in my 2 cents. Personally, I wouldn't worry about extra jets, etc. until you see what's up. And I'm sure that some of the experts out there are clueless to help you because all we have is a pic of the top of the tub! I'd need to see where the controls are and a pic of the underside of the tub. My PVC is still good from all those years ago, no leaks. I have put in a couple of pvc parts to create shutoffs to make my life easier. My older tub didn't even have a shut off so I could change the filter without draining the entire tub. I don't have ozone and haven't missed it although my replacement spa pack does have an attachment for it. My topside controls all the air switches BUT the airswitch on top of the tub is still functional and so I just left it there. So the bottom line is that not knowing anything more than a pic of the top of the tub, I'm no help. Looking forward to side view (where the controls go) and underside. Just one more thought. My jets use a separate jet pump and I've not found a way to attach that plumbing to the rest of the tub. It works great but again, until we see where the plumbing runs..... Good luck.
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