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  1. Whenever I turn on my jets my hot tub ends up looking like a bubble bath full of fizzy foam. Not just a little bit either, I'd probably be ok with that, but it ends up getting like 4 to 5 inches thick across the entire surface. If I turn off the jets, the foam starts to go away and after about 5 to 10 minutes the water is back to being crystal clear with no foam at all. I've done some reading and have tried a few things, but all to no avail. The only thing I haven't done is a drain and refill only because I just did it about a month ago and don't want to have to do it again so soon. I don't think my well pump can handle draining and refilling this thing every month. We use it about 2 times a week, or less, and its usually just 2 people. My water test results are below. All the levels seem ok to me, but there's gotta be something I'm missing. I'll also use Leisure Time 'Enzyme' and 'Bright & Clear' sometimes, as needed. Please take a look and let me know if you have any ideas...thanks! Hardness - 280 ppm pH - 7.7 TA - 90 ppm TDS - 590 ppm Sanitizer (MPS) - within 'OK' range
  2. I have a pretty old (1998) California Cooperage tub, Model 105. Replaced the pump and heater last year and all was working perfect, up until a couple weeks ago. The filter cycle, which normally runs for 3 hours every 12 hours, has been cycling ON and OFF constantly during that 3 hour period... For example, during the 3 hour filter cycle, the pump (and sometimes the heater) will run for only about 2 minutes, then will shut off for about 20 minutes. This happens constantly throughout the 3 hour period. I initially though it was the pump overheating, but it does not get hot and there are no error codes. Also, if I manually turn on the pump, high or low, with the control panel, it runs totally fine for as long as I want it to. It has no problem maintaining the set temp throughout the day either. Could it be a circuit board issue? I believe its the original board still...Thanks in advance!
  3. Thank you JHTR for your help and detailed info! I had disconnected the heating element completely before testing for continuity. There was no continuity so I replaced the heater assembly with a new one but still continued to get the OH code. I checked the voltage while the heat was on and all was good and water temp was rising, so I know the new heater assembly is working. The water never got too hot to touch, it seems like the OH code would only come on when the water reached a temp higher than the set temp (i.e.- if I set it at 90 and water temp reached 95, the OH code would appear). Based on what you said, it sounds like the relay may not be opening and turning off the heater when its supposed too. I will test both the circuit board and upper limit next, using the methods you suggested. Thank you again!
  4. I have a 1998 Coleman California Cooperage (Model 105) spa. Its in generally great condition but I have recently been having issues with what I thought was a heater problem... I noticed the spa wasn't running one day, the water was cold and an Error Code 'OH' was displayed. I shut the breaker off then back on to reset it and it started running again and the heat light was on so I assumed all was good. I checked it a couple hours later and noticed that it was still running, the heat light was still on but the water temp had actually gone down. I then started to check for electric issues. I checked the voltage coming in (its wired 240v) and the voltage going to the control unit and heater assembly, and all checked out good. I then disconnected the heater assemble and tested the continuity (ohms) across the element and found that the element was bad. So, I replaced the heater assembly, which also came with a new pressure switch, and fired up the tub and it worked perfect. Heat light came on and water temp started rising. I went out to check on it a few hours later and once again, the tub wasn't running and an Error Code 'OH' was displayed...Can anyone tell me what is happening that would cause this? Thanks in advance!
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