Woodsy

You are correct Chris, they are the same.

Yeah I do. That is one of the reasons I am here. I want to be able to provide my customers with the best information I can. Certain training manuals say never to use it. Most of the time I wonder if the training manuals say something to keep the company from being liable. Probably the main case there. Also, we do carry both DE and the cellulose fiber. I have had a lot of people start using the cellulose fiber in their DE filter and find it works a lot better and very happy with the results. I heard that California is getting rid of even being able to use DE anymore because it does contain silica(carnicagen,sp?). Anybody confirm this? If this is true, I am sure Arizona will follow.

I'll check the containers tomorrow. Are you using the Chlor brite to add chlorine or are you using a different brand?

To maintain the low pH would you suggest muratic acid or a dry acid? Also how would you chlorinate to keep a sanizter level? Powder shock(sodium dichlor, cal hypo) could sink and possibly cause problems? Would sodium hypochlorite(liquid chlorine) be better even though that would most likely cause an increase in pH and alkalinity?

If you are running bromine, then you do not need to worry about free chlorine levels. Chlorine and Bromine are different sanitizers. Bromine is suggested in spas because it is not as temperature sensitive as chlorine. However cyanuric acid levels shouldn't be present unless you are using a chlorine product to oxidize the bromine and activate it. Also, with bromine you will only read total bromine. When bromine combines with organics(nitrogen and ammonia, sweat and swimmer waste) it is still an active sanitizer. So, if you're bromine levels are high and you have a lot of sun exposure leave the cover off for a few days. The sun will pull the bromine out and lower your level. Usually if you are running a one part bromine system(floating tabs) only one two ounce package of sodium bromide should start you off ok. Until you know how much bromine your system runs through you need to test bromine daily and start the floater on the lowest setting. The two part system would be adding a two ounce package and oxidizing(activating) the bromine with a MPS(potassium peroxymonosulfate) product to convert the sodium bromide to hydrobromius acid(killing form of bromine) to sanitize. So if you are using bromine stop using chlorine as well. The chemicals do not mix and cause "off gassing" which is probably the smell you are getting. I am sure some people on here can explain it a little better, but I hope this helps. Also if any information here is a little off I hope someone will step in and help us both.

With the colour you described it does sound like iron. Just try using some more of the metal remover and give it some time. When you drain and refill are you using any purging product to help cleanse the pipes?

Using muratic acid in the spa might be a little harsh. Use dry acid instead(follow directions on container) and also test before adding chemicals always!!!!! I heard a new one the other day about a suggestion to rinse the filter with an acid solution to help break up calcium in the filter. He said one ounce of muratic acid to five ounces of water and soak for a few minutes then rinse well. Can anyone give more information on this suggestion? It would work for cleaning build-up off of salt cells but filters? Also I would try to get the pH and Alkalinity back as close to recommended levels before draining.

Sounds like the organics need to be addressed a little more. Are you using any enzymes to break down the organics? If not, maybe something like Spa Perfect from Natural Chemistry or similar should be used regularly. Directions on the bottle are one ounce per one hundred gallons per week. So three ounces should suffice. If you use the spa a lot this should help out. Also, I usually suggest adding the MPS a little more often. Maybe twice a week.

waterbear, sorry for the long wait, I have been very busy transfering stores and working long hours. I discussed this with a few other mechanics. They said it can be done but very little use is the only way. Too much use can start to clog as the other poster mentioned. Sounds like something only professionals that understand the consequences can do properly. For liability issues I won't mention DE use in a sand filter but will appreciate the advice if I ever decide to branch out on my own. Thanks.

waterbear, I don't mean to sound contradictory to your DE in a sand, but I have some mechanics that say it clogs up the sand filters as well. If it works in your neck of the woods and have seen no trouble that is fine. I still will suggest the cellulose fiber as a filtering aid.

A high phosphate level will cause a problem. Phosphates, aka ortho-phosphates, is a food source for algae. If the MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration) is reached and the sanitizer level has not been raised above that you will get algae. Even if you have chlorine in the pool algae can still grow with high phosphate levels. Usually the initial dosage is a lot higher than eight ounces. Looks like your pH is high as well. Depending on what brand of phosphate remover you purchased you'll probably want to add one liter to knock the levels down to something controllable. You'll want to keep them between 0-200 ppb.

I just had a guy in the store today with about the same description. Where's waterbear? I couldn't think of a mineral that would appear green. This guy's water chemistry was pretty good as well. His pH was a little on the high side, but that was it.

I was under the impression that you didn't want to use DE in a sand filter. However a product like a cellulose fiber could be used because it is biodegradable. Any insight?

Did you fully examine the manifold and o-ring from the pipe? Did any grids have any broken structures? Just a few other things to look at.

Seems as though the little bit that is being added is not enough to warrant a size upgrade. Are you going with regular sand or a zeosand product?

Most chemicals you add to the pool will require some PPE(Personal Protection Equipment). Don't let this worry you, just use caution. First off, congratulations on the obtaining the pool. The alkalinity and pH do work together. Total Alkalinity acts as a protector for the pH. It keeps the pH stable. Since they are related, when adjusting one the other will be adjusted. Since you are having algae problems, you will need to know that at high alkalinity levels the chlorine being produced by your salt system will not be as effective. Also, by high alkalinity, what level did it test at? After adding Muriatic Acid, wait four hours(with pump running), to test before jumping in. Remember to enjoy your pool.

This doesn't seem normal. Did you add salt originally or did the builders add salt? Are you testing for salt levels or is the system informing you that the level is low? If you don't have salt testing capability in house, you might want to see if your local pool shop can test it for you.