Saxy

This morning I checked voltage going from the heater relay board to the main control board. I am showing 220v on black and red wire and 120v between either the red and black when checking against the white neutral. So I think I am getting correct voltage to control board as well. I am not getting any led lights illuminating on the control board either with or without the aux panel and contol panel plugged in. Any thing else I can try or is this most likely a bad board? Thanks,

Earlier this year my control board stopped working correctly. Everything would would work except that I could not activate jet pump one or two (Heat, circ pump, control panel all worked normally). The relays would click when I actvated the pumps on the control panel but the motors would not activate. I was not getting 220 volts on the motor terminals. I was advised by Watkins this indicated a control board failure and I would need to replace it. I finally got around to replacing the with a unit that was listed as a new / open box board. The new board came as a complete unit with the housing, heater relay, and control board. Installation seemed straigt forward. The only modifications I had to make was my circulation pump had an inline fuse attached to the back of the box for the circulation pump. I moved that over to the new control box. I also had move over my i2c 8 port hub. After installing the new board I flipped on the 20 and 30 amp breakers and nothing happened. I have no sounds, no lights, and luckly no smoke . I have checked voltages at the terminal block and I have 220 volts between terminal 1 and 4 and I have 220 between terminal 5 and 6. With those reading i think that everything is hooked up the way it should be. What is the best way for me to check voltages to ensure that I am getting voltage from heater relay board to the control board? The control board that I replaced was a version made in 2009 and the new one was made in 2011. The boards look identical except that the original heater relay board has extra connecters at the top of the heater board for pillow lighting, but they were not used. I intentially have jet pump one disconnected at the moment. I would appreciate any comments or troubleshooting tips. Thanks,

I replied to this on the other topic you started. It is possible that it is leaking from the air tube but I doubt that is your problem. I belive that the outlet of the air tube goes above the water line so gravity would keep it from leaking out there unless there is another break in the air tube somewhere in the cabinet. You can plug off the end of that air tube and see if that resolves the problem. The leak is most likely coming from a broken bleed nipple. It is not a bad or expensive fix. Here a link to more info.

Thanks for the reply. I will provide the Watkins part numbers listed on metal supports and see if that helps. My current board has a Watkins part number of 1181801-1 Rev e. The part I want to replace it with is Watkins part number 1315101 - 1 Rev b. This is the Orca board and the boards look very similar except that the port on the top right corner of the board is white on the new board and my board the port is black. I think the individual control board part number is 78039. I think the board I am trying to replace it with is the same part just a newer revision but I would love to confirm it will work with my 2010 Envoy. Unfortunaly my local Hot Springs Dealer is of no help at all. When I have called them they will only let me talk to their new sales department and they just want to see new Spas. I called them 3 times about trying to purchase my bleed valve repair kit and they never returned any of my calls. I escalated to Hot Springs corporate and they were very apologetic and said they would escalate back to my local dealer and have them contact me They of course never called me back even after the escalation. I finally found someone in Florida that sold me a repair part. Does Hot Springs / Watkins have a technical support phone number where I can talk to someone? Thanks,

It is most likely leaking from a broken bleed nipple valve. I am replying on my phone so I can not post the link about how to fix this but search the forums for bleed nipple valve and I think you will find your answer.

Several months ago my 2 jet pumps stopped working on my Envoy. The heater and the circulation pump work but not the main jets. I have 220 coming to the main board from the relay board but I am only showing 120V on the terminals for the jet pumps. I do hear the relays click on and off when I turn the pumps on and off at the control panel but the motors never come to life. I assume I need a new control board. I was planning on replacing the entire pack at one time since the heater relay is us quite old now as well. My current part number for the control box is 01572-04 and the one I found to replace it is 01572-08. Will the 08 varient work with my current spa or will i have to change other components as well? I can see I will have to move my LED controller over but I am hoping that everything else will be plug and play. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

If it was made in the 2nd half of 2009 then you most likely have the ORCA system. The control unit is not avaialbe as one complete unit any longer but you can still purchase just the main board or the heater relay board seperately. More info is below. As always verify serial number and part number for compatibility. *This Control box is currently unavailable as a complete unit. The Heater Relay board (77118) and Motherboard (Main Board 78039) are sold individually, you will need to re-use the black control box housing. Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. I will check for 220V from the relay board when I get home this evening to confirm voltage is there. I suspect it will be since my heater is working. I have read that some versions of the IQ2020 have fuses on the board. I did not see any quickly glancing at my board on the front side. Are there any fuses I should be checking?

I checked the voltage on my control board today for Jet pump 1 and 2. When I activate the pumps I show 120V between the white and ground and the black and ground. But I do not show anything between the white and black wires which I suspected would show 220v. I also have the same results on Jet 2. I show 120 between white / ground, red,/ ground/ and black /ground but I do not see 220 anywhere. I do belive that I have 220v to the Spa as the spa is heating and I have 220V across teminals 5 and 6 coming into the spa. Am I correct or incorrect in my assumptions about how I should be checking for voltage? If so, any ideas as to why I would not be getting 220 at the control board panel?

Here is the link to the video that pointed me to my soluton. I contacted the poster of the video and he sold me essentially what is a cone shaped rubber stopper. I put the rubber stopper in the drain hole at the bottom of the moto massage jet and in 5 minutes my problem was solved. If I ever need to full drain the tub, It is simple to pull the stopper back and and let it drain. Best $5 I have ever spent in my life. That to the person who posted the video for comming up with a soluton as my local dealer wanted well over $1000 to do this repair.

Help! I have broken my hot tub. About 6 weeks ago, Jet Pump 1 on my Envoy stopped working. After investigating I realized that the impeller had siezed up. I could manually turn the impeller using a screwdriver at the back end of the pump and it seemed to free up. When I powered up the jets again, the motor came to life but water started pouring out of the back of the wet-end. I took it apart and realized it broke the center of the impeller and that is why water was pouring out. Since the pump is about 9 years old I decided to replace the entire pump and wet-end so it would be trouble free for the next few years. I drained the tub and replaced the pump but I did not have the right size bleed nipple and I had to let the tub sit empty for about 4 weeks while I got parts and attended to other things. I finally put it all back together today and filled it with water. I flipped on the breakers and the tub fired up. The LCD panel came on, the circulation pump stated working, and I heard the heater relay click on. I let the circulation pump run for a a few minutes and then if turned on the jets to check for leaks. Unfortunately when I tried to turn on the jets, I discovered that neither Jet 1 or Jet pump to or working. I can hear the relays cutting on when I activate the jets but the pumps are silent. There is no humming, vibration, or noise of any kind. The jet indicatior illuminates on the top control panel and the small led on the IQ2020 board lights up. I have 120v between hot and ground on the control board when I activate the pumps. I also have 120v on the terminals of the new pump. I could not easily check the wires on pump 2. I disconnected the new pump hoping that was the problem but I still have the same results. Jet 2 was working fine with no issues, and I did not touch it or disconnect anything when I replaced Pump 1. I am not sure what I did but I would appreciate any guidance or troubleshooting assistance.

I have a 2010 Envoy and it busted the impeller and began pouring water out of the back of the wet end. I replaced the impeller with an a used impeller I had saved from another wet end I replaced last year. When I started the pump I suspect the same thing happened again as water is pouring out of the back again even when the pump is off. Instead of replacing the wet end I was thinking of replacing the entire unit due to the age of the unit. The current pump is a 2HP pump and I believe that it is a 56 Frame. The label says that it will run at 115V or 230V but I think this is setup as a 230V motor. unfortunately I did not check the voltage before having to drain the tub. I found a reasonable price replacement pump but it is a 48 frame instead of a 56 frame. What differences will I see with this and will it make mounting it more difficult with the current plumbing not lining up? The replacement I found that is a 56 frame unit is a 3HP unit. I did not want to upsize the motor as I was happy with the performance of the 2hp motor. Does anyone have any recommendations for a reasonable and easy replacement? Thanks!

Mind broke off also on my 2010 Envoy. Luckily I saw the repair video on Youtube and contacted the poster. He sold me a plug to put in the nipple for $5 and I have not had any issues with it. It is a shame it is a common problem. Good luck.

Hello all, I installed a 2010 HotSprings Envoy around December of last year. When I got the tub the only problem was that Jet Pump 1 did not work. Once I filled it with water I almost immediately noticed it had a leak on black plastic end of the heater. I epoxied that and it has mostly resolved that issue. It will still put out a few drop of water but nothing significant. I enjoyed the tub for several months and then decide to see what the issue was with Jet 1. I noticed the that the motor was not plugged up to the control board so wired it back up. When I turned on the jet it would make a humming sound but the shaft would not spin. I thought it might be capacitor but that was fine. I tried to turn the shaft but it would not move. I used a screwdriver on the back side of the pump and was able to finally make it move. When I applied power again the motor struggled for a moment but then it began to move a full speed. I let it run for about 30 minutes and then it was moving freely. I was very excited about this and found out the Moto-massage to be absolutely amazing. Unfortunately soon after that I realized that my Envoy was loosing a lot of water. Originally I was having to add water about twice a week. Now I am loosing about 2 - 4 inches of water per day. I found out I do leak on the wet end of Jet 1. It appears to be leaking from the o-ring on the volute plate. It is a big leak but I do not think It would account for the amount of water I am loosing. Most of the water I see on the ground outside of the tub seems to be near the corner of the moto-massage. I assumed it was a problem with the bleed nipple that I read about so I let the spa drain down to help find the leak. The spa leak did not stop at the moto-massage, it kept draining to the top of the footwell jets. The bucket behind the moto-massage emptied out as well. I have attached a picture of where the water stops when I let it drain. I did try a bottle of the Marlin Stop leak. It worked for a week when I put it in. I thought it was fixed so I drained the tub and put the filters back in. Once I filled it it up it started leaking again within a day or two. From looking at where to water stops leaking, can anyone suggest where I should start looking for a leak. The jets that look suspect are all quite far away from where I am seeing water on the ground but I know that does not necessarily mean anything. I am going to take wavemaster 8000 out today and see if I can tell for sure where it is leaking and how badly damaged it is. I plan on replacing at a minimum the mechanical seal, the wear ring, and the O-ring. What else should I replace while I am in there. Also would it be better to just replace the entire wet end as a new on is only about $100. I suspect this will be long process as I have never dug into a foamed spa before I appreciate any guidance that anyone might have. Thanks, William

I checked for voltage between 5 and 6 and I am not showing any voltage between them. I checked voltage between ground and terminal's 2,, 4, 5, and 6. Each leg was showing 120. I tested voltage between H1 and H2 and I show 0 volts. H1 and H2 to ground both show 120 each side. I also checked the terminals on the board for jets. When I check white to black I show 0 volts. When I check each leg of the jets, I show 120. This if for both Jet 1 and J 2. Is this a wiring problem or Control board problem? Is there anything else I can check? Thanks, William