The following in blue is an excerpt from a reply from Chem Geek, Wizard of Water:
"Saltwater chlorine generators do not drive up pH directly. They produce hypochlorite then when it becomes hypochlorous acid it increases pH but then when that hypochlorous acid gets used/consumed it lowers the pH back down. What can happen is that some undissolved chlorine gas from the generator outgasses and that will raise the pH. Also the increased aeration from the hydrogen gas bubbles will increase pH from carbon dioxide outgassing. As you point out, the higher TA increases this carbon dioxide outgassing. That's why those using either bleach or a saltwater chlorine generator and maintaining a lower TA of around 50 ppm are able to have much more stable pH though they also use 50 ppm Borates for additional pH buffering to make up for the lower buffering from the lower TA level.
So yes, lower your TA, but not just to 80 ppm but to lower than that and use 50 ppm borates (most easily added from boric acid) for additional pH buffering."
My water out of the tap is:
TA - 50 ppm
pH - 7.7
CA - 50 PPM
I will follow Waterbears recommendation to balance pH and TA.
1. Add acid to lower your PH to between 7.0 and 7.2 (this also lowers TA) then test your TA
2. Aerate until PH rises to around 7.6 (the only way to raise PH without also raising TA) Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you reach the desired TA.
QUESTION: Will the Dichlor/Bleach method for a salt water chlorine system work equally well with a salt water bromine system?
QUESTION: Will a TA between 50/60(minimum set by the APSP) ppm & 80 ppm offset with Borates (boric acid or borax/MA or Gentle Spa) help reduce the pH rise in a spa sanitized with BCDMH bromine pucks? Or is there some reaction between borates and cyanuric acid that affects pH?