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saxman

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  1. Thank you very much!- looking thru their product info to make sure i get the correct epoxy(seems to be a few) and came across Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - must be the one? will see if i can track some down.
  2. I have a 21 year old beachcomber 550x (basic-17 jets, circ pump and main pump) that has required only basic maintenance so cant complain- its served us well. it does have some slow leaks so trying to fix what I can to get another year or two out of it. Presently took all the jets off- removing the disintigrated caulking around the joint areas and will recaulk with silicone, as well as replace some orings on the jets . One area that I could use some help is the underwater light/lens hole - it developed a leak around the edge of the fixture/lens cap, slowed the leak down with marine sealant but not a complete fix. (have unplugged the light- not needed). I took the lens cap off and found the light housing assembly connection female threaded ring that snugged the leans cap fixture to the tub had broken (light bulb filled with water- so the lens cap fixture/male union joint was basically held by friction in the hole. There is no way to reattach/tighten as to get at the innards of the old beachcombers you have to take apart all the wooden slats and make a mess. Can I take something like jb marine weld and permanently bond the lens cap and fixture parts to the tub ? If so- how best to clean or prepare the parts and the tub fibreglass to ensure a good bond?
  3. hi I have a 14 year old beachcomber 550x - the underwater light no longer works. I drained the tub and when removing the lens cap, found that the housing unit threads to hold the cap in place are no more (cap threads are fine) . It is also possible that the housing may have been leaking due to the thread issue, as I had a leak as well. I believe its a standard 3 1/2 or 2 1/2 housing with a 12 volt bulb driven by the balboa pack. what are my options here? - are there any diy steps to replacing the housing - I understand I may need to get to it from underneath, but not sure....or is it possible to silicone the cap back in and eliminate any potential for leaks? thanks
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