flipflopper

I ended up shocking it quite a bit with bleach and the water was very clean. But the whitish slime/flakes came back. I ended up running SpaKlean through it (all night) and then a couple of hours with a high bleach cycle (23 oz of 8.25% bleach in 370 gallons). I then drained it and filled it back up and did another disinfection cycle with bleach. I also cleaned my filters with a filter cleaner and then gave them a high bleach soaking (I noticed some of the white stuff in the filter pleats). As it drained, I wiped everything down and got almost all the old water out. To date, things have been good. I'm keeping my bromine levels at about 5 and hoping for the best. We'll see.

By the way, the first super shock I did worked magic. The water was much clearer. So I shocked again with Spa Essentials Brominating Concentrate and the water became cyrstal clear. I got in after a few hours and enjoyed the soak. I then shocked with 6 more oz of 8.25% bleach and left it overnight (open for an hour with the jets running and then shut it down). The water was crystal clear again. I'm airing it out for three hours this morning and will shock with Spa Essentials brominating concentrate with a maintenance dose and hope things remain normal.

Okay, I will shock a little bit after every usage. Also, I picked up SeaKlear Spa System Flush this time. Next time, I'll pick up Ahh-Some and give it a try.

I got a newer Sundance spa back in March and got it running in May. When I went to look at it at the seller’s house, it had white, snotty looking things in it (I didn’t get in). I brought it home and decontaminated it with Spa Flush and then with superchlorinated water. The spa balanced out nicely after that and I kept my water within these specs: 7.8 Ph (sometimes went to 8.0 and 8.1) 100-120 TA 2-5 Bromine 130-150 Calcium I would shock with 2-4 teaspoons of MPS after each use. After 1.5 months, the water took on a greenish hue and at the same time I ran out of bromine tabs. I switched over to a bromine/shock combo I had laying around but the green water didn’t get better. So I drained and refilled. Things were peachy keen for two weeks. I started shocking once a week with MPS. But just recently I noticed the water start to darken a bit. So I added some clarifier and that’s when the bubbling/foaming started. The foam would leave a white, slimy residue along the walls after I turned the jets off. The stuff appears to be white mold as it is a match for the images that turn up on Google Images when I search for white mold. There are little slimy white swirlies in the water. I added 2 tablespoons of MPS and 6 oz of 8.25% bleach (in 370 gallons) to give it a good shock. The cover is off and the sun will hit the spa water for several hours. The the jets are running and I sprayed down the filters. I will likely repeat this process with a super shock once more and try to degrease and sanitize/decontaminate my filters. Today I ordered a new spa flush product and filter cleaner that should come later this week or early next. At that point, I'd like to run a proper decontamination cycle (or two or three until I'm not using any bromine over an extended period of time). I have four questions: 1) How can I avoid this in the future? 2) Can I use the spa in the meantime as long as I super shock it regularly and wait the appropriate amount of time before getting back in? 3) Am I doing things correctly or is something I am doing leaving me open to these problems?* 4) Why was my water getting a greenish hue? *I am going to keep Ph down around 7.4 in the future). Thanks!

I am getting ready to wire up a late model Sundance Hot Tub that takes a 60amp breaker and disconnect. The run is 65 feet with 45' leg from the main panel to the disconnect (mostly inside) and 20' from disconnect to spa (all outside/buried). I will be changing the spa's jumper configurations so that it uses max amperage (48 max out with both pumps and heater running). Using the 125% rule, I could be using all 60 of those amps under load, startup, etc. I am concerned with derating, heat, etc., with a run that long if code/manufacturer tells me I need a 60 amp box. Should I run 6 or 4 gauge THHN/THWN wire for the first leg (45') to the disconnect box? I don't think I'm able to run 4 gauge wire into the tub as the tub's control panel terminals won't accept that size. Is there any benefit to doing this or should I just go all 6 gauge since the last leg from disconnect to spa is 6 gauge. The work will be inspected but I'm above all shooting for maximum peace of mind from my installation beyond the inspector's say so.

In Sundance configurations, there usually is not a white wire that runs from the GFCI disconnect to the spa. I believe your diagram from Sundance shows the same thing. My newer Sundance hot tub with manual indicates that it is a three-wire config with a text box right by the stereo icon. Was the white just laying unhooked previously?