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myarcticsummit

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Everything posted by myarcticsummit

  1. I'm filtering at 6 hrs. per day. 2 - 3 hr. sessions. I'll try some new filters because I sometimes notice a fiber that looks like it's a fiber from the filter. To short to be a hair or something.
  2. Do you recommend I stop using the MPS to "shock" with? My current CYA level is around 30ppm should I start using the bleach? How much would I use if I have the onzen system? The water is still not crystal clear as I would like... which I think it may be just because it's the tubs first fill and there just seems to be these floating fibers and 'dust" like particles. The white flakes are gone and have not come back since I've cleaned the ring from around the tub - my guess bio-films of some sort. Does't matter how much I seems to filter it just never get's perfectly clear - even with applications of MPS after each soak. Perhaps I should be using chlorine? You've mentioned the borates would that help in that area as well as far as clarity?
  3. It does make the reading high when doing the FC test. Is there a way to determine how much actual FC there is or will I need to wait to let that normalize? Does the MPS work as well for shocking as does granular chlorine?
  4. Thanks for the reply. That's what I'm seeing too and in the manual they do talk about adding some boost now and then. I guess if it can't keep up then what's the point of having it? Might just drain the tub and refill and not have a salt system at all? I'll try bumping it up too. Seems the point of a salt system is just for more "background cleaning" while it's not in use. I will double check to see if it's working properly. I've been able to see the "smoke" it talks about but I'll do a more detailed check of the system I think. I really can't believe it's this "useless" or at least seems that way as of now. Here's a question. Why does the Non-chlorine shock seem to raise the FCL level even though it contains now chlorine? False reading?
  5. I did an experiment last night. I took a quart sample of water in a mason jar... I then added some non-chlorine shock to it and shook it around for a bit. Within a couple of minutes of doing that.. the water cleared up substantially! I'm suspect now if my onzen is able to keep up? I've had it set on 14hrs per day and so far I'm the only user of the tub about 1/2 per evening. The only way I've been able to get decent FCL numbers is to add my dichlor now and then... but I have not checked it immediately before or after use. All I know right now is that shocking the tub seems to be clearing it up!
  6. Thanks for the reply. Those flakes are so small I just can't seem to capture them. I tried adding some vinegar directly to a small sample of water to see if it would bubble but I didn't see anything. The test kit I'm using is the colorQ 7. I should get my number verified at my local dealer and see what they say. They have a kit by the same company... just tests more things. I was able to get a flake off the side of the tub at the waterline... and put this in vinager... but not flakes. There is like a white ring around the tub as well and it kinda has a "smeary" feel to it. You can see the ring more obviously in areas where the water is not as disturbed as much when the pumps are running. In the seating areas it's almost non existent.. or at least I can't see it. So it appears to be a build-up of some kind.
  7. Here's another question. I'm curious if my filters are working properly. Take a look at the following photo of a sample of water: http://www.wphdev.com/water.jpg I'm able to monitor the spa so I can see it's supposedly filtering each day during it's allotted time. I've even tried bumping up the filter time and nothing seems to remove it!
  8. I should make a correction. This is the Chlorine I'm using: http://www.spapureusa.com/index.php/products/sanitizers/granular-chloride/ which does have the Dichlor in it. I do add small amounts of this from time to time. Numbers as of this morning: FCL: 1.18 ph: 7.6 alk: 87 CYA: 16 CH: 157 Adding a little CYA help make the water feel a little less harsh. I guess at this point what would you suggest I do? The main issue at this time is water that is slightly cloudy. Are my numbers that far out of range? The water is nearly a week old and was filled using a pre-filter and treated with metalgon. Just needs more time to filter and "self clear"? FCL too low? Thanks for all your help.
  9. The PH seems to have stabilized...(what I did was get the alk setup a little on the high side first.. then adjusted the Ph to get that in range.... thus keeping the TA in it's proper range) Seems to be holding in it's current state the last 48hrs. or so with about 2 hrs of use. Current numbers as of this morning are: ph: 7.4 TA: 90 FCL: 2.0 However, the water is slightly cloudy... very slight. I do have some iron in the water as well. Had a local pluming supply check for iron as I noticed a very slight discoloration too. I treated the tub with metal gon during the initial fill.... but have since added a slight amount of water due to normal loss. Is there something I can treat it with to "filter" out the iron? More metalgon? My current CYA level is 5.0 ppm. I did not add any CYA when filling the tub or use and dicholor. The tub was filled with a higher quality pre-filter as well. What product do I need to increase the CYA? Thanks for the help. The quest for perfectly crystal clear water continues!
  10. Hi all, I recently got a new hot tub and I'm having some issues regulating the pH and TA. A little background about the water. The tub holds 377 gallons of water and us using an onzen salt system. We filled the tub using one of the higher quality pre-filters and treated the tub with metalgon before adding any salt or other chemicals. Both salt and chlorine are within acceptable levels. here's how it breaks down. Salt is within the 1200 - 1500 ppm (onzen v8) free chlorine: 1.56ppm (recommended 1-3) pH: 7.8 TA: 90. Calcium is 160ppm The issue is, if I use pH Down to lower the PH to get it where I need it, this also lowers the TA which is expected. But then raising the TA back up is then also driving the PH back up! Example: Ph lowered to 7.3 this also lowerd the TA down to 46ppm. I then added a few capfuls of the Alk up and this brought the TA back to 90, but doing this increased the PH back to 7.8! The PH was lowered slowly, cap full by cap full and running the pumps 15 mins. between testing with a colorQ test kit. Generally after each adjustment I'll run the tub for 15 mins to make sure it can mix well etc. I just can not get the TA up to it's acceptable range without increasing the PH too much. Any ideas?
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